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"...Lithium makes sense if someone is going for a full bike diet as it’s a great way to save a high proportion of overall weight loss,..." Not arguable in my opinion, one of my primary motivations when I went to the LiFe batteries as there is probably no faster/cheaper way to lose 10+ lbs on a...

Beginning to feel some lead/acid and AGM hate here.... '-)

I live in the US Southwest, warmer climate...No complaints about the LiFe batteries, they're pretty good but I have to use my special charger and I can't get a replacement locally (mail order only), so I've stopped caring about the 10 lbs or so of delta (I can fluctuate that much in my personal...

I have a Shorai, couple of pounds at the most, turn on your ignition and give a few seconds before you hit the starter button. I'm personally shifting over to AGMs (heavy but good). I have a couple of these LiFe batteries and a charger, think I'm going to sell them....

+1

I like to tour on the Hyper when in the mountains as well, aside from Givi cases, Aluminum rack with Rotopax on it with a Speedpak, haven't really needed a tank bag with this and forget it's all back there...

I have the stock (comfort) seat and race seat, race seat is harder but it my general preferred seat (I have the foam removed where my sit bones (ichials) are. If I'm riding long, I go for the comfort seat with either sheep skin or AirHawk. Sporty riding, race seat...

I don't know if this helps but I was speaking with a Beemer guy I know (Udo Gietl) and he also rides a Duc and he told me about the pulsating problem he has with his, said he went to wave rotors and problem is gone, just a data point, hope it helps...

Hear you, took out for a test ride, 200 miles later I gave him a $1K down and rode it home the next day, put a feeler out to sell, then rode again, now I can't sell it...it's that good, I'm just fixing the stuff I don't like or trust...

Can't go wrong with the Mupo, it's better than Ohlins with a better (higher) than Ohlin's price but I am not disappointed, feels like best I've every had...

I can see the rim, maybe spokes, being bent but the hub? Maybe the rotor mounting surfaces where not made as orthogonal to the axle as they should have been. Someone with a large enough throw on a lathe could rectify that fast and absolutely tell you what your rim runout is. Best of luck...

The SIL-GLYDE is what's on mine, with the radial master cylinder, these are the best feel brakes I've ever had, easy to modulate, no vib, no sticking...good luck...

Read about this problem, I use silicon grease on my pistons and elsewhere and seems work fine, just an idea...

I run one on my Hyperstrada.. First rpm = 3000 rpm Sensor threshold = 40% Cut-off delay = 25 ms Cut-off times = 85 ms Pretty much how it cam and for as long as my shift lever is tight, seems to work fine...

PM sent...

Yeh, if you went through my hyperproject thread, you saw I used the same for shifting, pivot toe peg is 10mm longer than stock (depends on your boot size). For the brake, that didn't work for me either, so I modified the stock arm to install an aftermarket Honda 450 dirt bike pivot pad...PM me...

Since they have springs in them, I don't think I can fully compress them. Since I've Mupo'd mine (higher than stock now), I can't really use them to tell. I'm looking for an extended unloaded length to compare against...as for pegs, my bike is almost motard height and I still had to raise them...

Doubt they are low but if you have an extended length, I can check them quick...

They are an improvement with that weight and inertia reduction...enough to matter, probably debatable but that's never stopped me before...

Thanx Araitim, I'm not hung up on the finish, probably would have to strip it anyway (assuming it's not anodized) to paint gold anyway. I had the 6" 1098/1198 wheel, not looking for spacers or bigger tires, so this is the size, thanx for letting me know what models to look for...my question...