2013 Issues on New Bike

Haven't had a low oil pressure issue, that one I'd be taking it into the dealer to get it checked out.

At 9000 km, I also get an occasional false neutral between 5-6. Strangely enough the bike shifts better up/down clutch-less and will never false neutral. These dukes must like being ridden harder, because you've really gotta kick it when your using the clutch.

Every Brembo caliper squeaks a little, your pad backing plates might need a little cleaning/lube depending how dusty of a climate your riding in.

Added: Something you might want to try is lowering the shift pedal down like 1/8" - 1/4". I have heard this sometimes makes things easier so you're not having to lift your toes up as high (which can be difficult wearing full race boots which restrict your movement).

Get the oil pressure light checked; that's a new one here.

I had stalling between upper gear shifts when my 13 was new. ECU update fixed that. As for false neutrals, you really have to mind your clutch play. This bike does not like being out of limits with the clutch play adjustment. Could be your shop just didn't dial in correctly. The manual tells you how to set it. On that note, I hate the stock setting and adjust the grab way closer, which my shop always dicks with when it goes in. I mark the threads on the adjuster for my preference.

Brake squeal: lube the bobbins. Many of us went through discs and pads for noisy brakes and in the end I think it all has to do with the bobbins sticking. They are the discs that look like a hipsters gauged ear rings. They allow the disc to float, which can create a lot of friction/noise if not working properly. Throw some light gun oil or similar just around the tracks and avoid getting on the disc.

Car transmissions are generally Synchromesh transmissions because they're quieter and smoother to operate. How they're operated, is between every gear there is a wear item known as a synchro which is designed to equalize the rotational speed between adjacent gears to make a smooth engagement. Engine power must be removed and time is required for the synchro to work properly. If you do not allow this to happen, results in the typical "grinding the gears," which as we all know happens in a lot of older cars after years of abuse.

Bikes, or purpose built auto racing transmissions are Dog Box (Dog Toothed) transmissions which don't necessarily need a clutch to facilitate a gear change. How they're operated, is every transmission gear has multiple large blocks of metal (known as dogs) which are machined into the gear to interact with adjacent gears to equalize rotational speeds. How a dog box can be operated is they need a momentary break in engine power which can be accomplished by either blipping of the throttle (or equalizing the throttle so you're neither accerating or decelerating) or a momentary clutch engagement. You do however still require a clutch when you're stopped or starting in 1st gear.

So in a manner of speaking, yes, you could ride the bike home with a broken clutch cable. However stop and go traffic would probably break the transmission if you were to somehow manage to find neutral, and kick it into gear to start moving.

Clutch-less shifting on a dog toothed transmission takes practice to do it properly to minimize wear, however these transmissions were designed with that in mind. So practice it before you need to do it.. Practice practice practice

Hopefully this information helps you out, and doesn't confuse you too much.

If you would like further reading on the subject;

Synchromesh vs. Dog Box - Gearbox Beatdown - Import Tuner Magazine

This is also how speed shifters work on bikes. They just kill the ignition for a split second as you apply pressure to the shifter.

Yup, you got it

Mine got false neutrals, mostly in the higher gears, but sometimes lower. It shirts better now, hopefully it's something that will go away with the miles. I had a '99 Triumph Sprint ST and it had false neutrals all over when new, but after about 5K miles it shifted perfectly. Hopefully our transmission problems will disappear like my Triumph's did.

For what it's worth: I had a spankin' new Fireblade (Tiger version) back in the old days.
Although it's a Honda, it took about 3000 kms (2000 mls) before the gears shifted smoothly.
Before that, it grinded gears on a regular base.

Oil warning light: perhaps a loose sensor? Maybe it needs a reset or something?

I wonder if the oil light came on because the motor had quit running.. So naturally it lost oil pressure. You might only have one issue, the stalling.

I wonder if you have throttle position sensor and related problems that cause or contribute to the stalling.

The oil pressure light is serious and needs to be checked closely at the dealer (assuming it comes on while motor is running).

The brakes, like most controls on this bike, do better with more firm use, rather than softer use. Bobbins are a factor for the front and do need to be loose/lubed. For the rear brake (not floating disc), I try to avoid using too soft a pressure, which solves the squeal there - as long as you have ABS set at 1 (or higher), locking them is not an issue. Once I need new pads are needed, or feel like changing them, I expect I will switch to EBC.

I still occasionally get a false neutral between the tallest gears, especially if I am moving around on the bike or just not shifting firmly enough. It is though much better than when it was new, and lowering the shift lever also helped. I find the front suspension is better once broken in too.

IMHO this is not a soft or cushy ride, but rather a sharp and purposeful one. The 1000 V-Strom I had before it had the cushy part very well covered, but when pushed harder it was much too vague, heavy, wallowy... I love my '13 HS.