Did a quick search and found info on the fronts but not the rear brake. Is this a reasonable diy with a vacuum pump or should I take it in for service. I have no pedal at all on the rear.
Joined Jan 2015
330 Posts | 1+
London
Sounds like a PITA from what I've read. However if you've got zero pedal feel anyway, what have you got to lose? If all else fails it's gonna go to the shop anyway right?
Joined Oct 2015
545 Posts | 0+
Minnesota
Removing the caliper is as simple as two bolts, the only difficult part is making sure to keep the small reservoir topped off. Not super difficult for one person, but two people would make this easy as cake.
Use a good quality DOT 4 fluid and you'll not have to do it again for a long time. A DOT 5.1 would also be good, but it's more expensive, harder to find, and usually have to be replaced more often (absorbs moisture quicker).
DIY all the way.
I'm going to give it a try. Anyone use a vacuum pump to pull fluid through the system toward the caliper?
Aren't there also a few screws running under the swingarm that hold the brake line in place?
Give it a try just using the pump without removing the caliper - I'd be curious to hear the results.
Joined Jan 2015
465 Posts | 2+
Victoria BC Canada
I bled the rear brake without using a vacuum pump and they've never caused an issue. How I did it:
1. remove rear tire with bike on center stand,
2. remove bolts holding the caliper and the brake line stay on the bottom of the swing arm to free up the caliper,
3. zap strap the caliper as high up on the bike as possible so it's the highest point in the system,
4. install a metal shim to keep the pads separated. a wrench approx same thickness as the rotor works well,
5. install the vacuum pump reservoir to the caliper bleed nipple and secure it so it won't fall off the bike (this just keeps it a clean job),
6. pump the brakes up and crack the bleeder nipple as you would any other brake system.
Once you see the new fluid running clear through the line without bubbles, bolt everything up again.
I've heard of people not having much success using a vacuum pump to suck the fluid through the system.. Might have been technique, might be something in the system preventing this type of bleeding.. I honestly don't know.
1. remove rear tire with bike on center stand,
2. remove bolts holding the caliper and the brake line stay on the bottom of the swing arm to free up the caliper,
3. zap strap the caliper as high up on the bike as possible so it's the highest point in the system,
4. install a metal shim to keep the pads separated. a wrench approx same thickness as the rotor works well,
5. install the vacuum pump reservoir to the caliper bleed nipple and secure it so it won't fall off the bike (this just keeps it a clean job),
6. pump the brakes up and crack the bleeder nipple as you would any other brake system.
Once you see the new fluid running clear through the line without bubbles, bolt everything up again.
I've heard of people not having much success using a vacuum pump to suck the fluid through the system.. Might have been technique, might be something in the system preventing this type of bleeding.. I honestly don't know.
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I was curious as to whether using the pump without unbolting everything, would be successful.
I think one problem people have is clearing the abs circuit. If you don't push the calipers all the way open, any bubbles, contamination, in the ABS circuit will remain. Normal bleeding, front or rear, won't clear the circuit.
I think one problem people have is clearing the abs circuit. If you don't push the calipers all the way open, any bubbles, contamination, in the ABS circuit will remain. Normal bleeding, front or rear, won't clear the circuit.
I flushed the brakes on my Hyper by pushing new fluid in and old fluid out.
Difference between DOT3 < DOT4 < DOT5.1 is it's boiling temperature and from left to right is least to greatest.
Never use DOT5** It is silicone based and can't be mixed with the other glycol based brake fluids.
I attached a small hose to the bleed nipple and bled everything mounted together. I didn't have any air trapped in the system so results may vary. If you have air trapped somewhere in the system, there is no reason you can't remove it with manual methods. You can always help it out by trying to raise the caliper high in the system to try and get the trapped air out.
I wouldn't bother with a manual vacuum pump. The proper vacuum pump uses compressed air and you just open the bleeder and keep topping off the reservoir as the pump pulls all the fluid through.
Here is one that I like:
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-6830-..._UL160_SR132,160_&refRID=10MM0QSEMEH16KM4QNZX
Difference between DOT3 < DOT4 < DOT5.1 is it's boiling temperature and from left to right is least to greatest.
Never use DOT5** It is silicone based and can't be mixed with the other glycol based brake fluids.
I attached a small hose to the bleed nipple and bled everything mounted together. I didn't have any air trapped in the system so results may vary. If you have air trapped somewhere in the system, there is no reason you can't remove it with manual methods. You can always help it out by trying to raise the caliper high in the system to try and get the trapped air out.
I wouldn't bother with a manual vacuum pump. The proper vacuum pump uses compressed air and you just open the bleeder and keep topping off the reservoir as the pump pulls all the fluid through.
Here is one that I like:
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-6830-..._UL160_SR132,160_&refRID=10MM0QSEMEH16KM4QNZX
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My first attempt with the Harbor Freight air powered bleeding kit failed. I pulled several reservoirs of fluid through the system without any change. I tried again a few days later but this time I pulled the caliper and flipped it over with the bleeder screw pointing up. I did not ever pump the pedal while the caliper was off the rotor so that I could put it back together when the bleeding process was complete. Pumping the pedal would have pushed the pads together and I don't know how to compress the plunger on such a small caliper. Anyway, I also felt like there might be some air leaking at the threads of the bleeder screw so I put a ring of dielectric grease at that point where the threads meet the caliper. I also greased the rubber boot on the bleeding tool to seal that up. I pulled a few ounces through the system and I saw a much better stream of air free fluid in the drain line. After I was satisfied that the air was removed I replaced the caliper and had very solid pedal. Good luck. It can be done.
Bleeding the burnt
I've did it on and off the bike on was easier. Changed to Motol 600RBF this time hope it last longer.
I've did it on and off the bike on was easier. Changed to Motol 600RBF this time hope it last longer.
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