Clutch pin issue?

bazbo · Apr 10, 2020

Hey all

Recently did the clutch judder mod and all is working fine.
However today I was doing some work on the bike and disconnected the clutch cable at the engine end. The sprung arm moved round and it seems like it has disengaged from the pull pin inside the clutch.
I reattached the cable but now the clutch does not disengage.

Has anyone experienced this issue before?
I know that a fix will be to take the clutch cover off and sort it internally, but that requires draining of oil and resealing the cover afterwards which is a huge pain.

Well annoyed!

Araitim · Apr 11, 2020

I have seen 2 versions of your issue. 1 was that the clutch pin was pushed back into the pressure ate past the point where the jaws could grab it. The other was the guy forced the arm before it caught on the tip and broke the tip off the clutch pin. Either way you will need to pull the cover and look at it.

gatdammit · Apr 11, 2020

Hopefully you don't shear the pin like I did. I don't know if it's a bad design, but there's been numerous issues with that mechanism after users have pulled the basket. So glad it forced me to go hydraulic cause I couldn't see what I did wrong.

bazbo · Apr 11, 2020

gatdammit said:
Hopefully you don't shear the pin like I did. I don't know if it's a bad design, but there's been numerous issues with that mechanism after users have pulled the basket. So glad it forced me to go hydraulic cause I couldn't see what I did wrong.

Thanks. I will try pushing a rod from the other side first.
Hey can you share exactly which parts you ordered to go hydraulic, in case I decide to do the same?
Cheers!

Araitim · Apr 11, 2020

Here is Gat's link for step by step using new pieces.

DIY: Hydraulic Clutch Swap

*DISCLAIMER* I used all Ducabike (DB) parts for this install. They are not cheap. They do sell the most complete kits and look fantastic. Quality is superb. User Araitim went a much more affordable route and you can contact him for details. Before you begin: - The OEM system pulls...

hyperstrada.com

Here is my link for step by step using used OEM pieces from other bikes.

Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder

Me too. Seems like they wanted a cheaper option. They were hydro for the 796 then the 1100. Cable for the 821 and 939 then back to hydraulic for the 950. Maby they wanted us to have options. The 950 clutch case would fit the 821 and 939. But at that point why not just do the clear cover.

hyperstrada.com

bazbo · Apr 11, 2020

Thanks guys.
I made a rod from a fridge rack, and pushed the pin from the rear side, but i could not reattach the lever. So I can only assume I have a sheared pin.
So I decided to drain the oil and remove the cover. But for the life of me this time I just cannot get the cover off. I guess I must have glued it too well last time.
I tried using a rubber mallet, long pry bar on the pry tabs but this cover isn't moving!
Any ideas? I'm thinking I will try a small blow torch to heat up the sealant?

Also, how do you remove the exhaust header pipe? I have removed the manifold bolts and the bolts from the rear support plate, but still cannot remove it. Do I need to remove the muffler as well?

bazbo · Apr 13, 2020

So I got the cover off with a blow torch and a sharpened screwdriver.
And yes my pin is sheared.
If I wanted to go hydraulic can I just reuse this sheared pin and just get a push rod, or am I simplifying it too much?

Araitim · Apr 13, 2020

It depends on which way you go. If you go with my method then you can reuse the pin but might need to clean up the used pushrod shaft because it's a tight fit in the hyper bobbin. You will need a hydraulic master cylinder, the pushrod I listed, the space cylinder and the line. If you get a master cylinder without the electrical switch then you can just ziptie the sensor in the engaged position and tuck it away. Ducabike makes a pushrod CABLE kit as well. That would be the least amount of hassle. You reuse your lever assembly and electrical components as well as the cable. It includes a cable actuated slave cylinder and the pushrod.

So basically you have 3 ways to do this. It's up to you which you think is best for you.

Mechanical Clutch Actuator by Ducabike

AFM03 Mechanical Clutch Actuator by Ducabike This mechanical clutch pull actuator allows for the install of a Ducabike Clear Clutch Cover. Make/Model/Year Ducati / Hypermotard 939 / 2016, Ducati / Hypermotard 939 / 2017, Ducati / Hypermotard 939 / 2018, Ducati / Hypermotard 939 SP / 2016, Ducati...

www.motovationusa.com

bazbo · Apr 13, 2020

Araitim said:
It depends on which way you go. If you go with my method then you can reuse the pin but might need to clean up the used pushrod shaft because it's a tight fit in the hyper bobbin. You will need a hydraulic master cylinder, the pushrod I listed, the space cylinder and the line. If you get a master cylinder without the electrical switch then you can just ziptie the sensor in the engaged position and tuck it away. Ducabike makes a pushrod CABLE kit as well. That would be the least amount of hassle. You reuse your lever assembly and electrical components as well as the cable. It includes a cable actuated slave cylinder and the pushrod.

So basically you have 3 ways to do this. It's up to you which you think is best for you.

Mechanical Clutch Actuator by Ducabike

AFM03 Mechanical Clutch Actuator by Ducabike This mechanical clutch pull actuator allows for the install of a Ducabike Clear Clutch Cover. Make/Model/Year Ducati / Hypermotard 939 / 2016, Ducati / Hypermotard 939 / 2017, Ducati / Hypermotard 939 / 2018, Ducati / Hypermotard 939 SP / 2016, Ducati...

www.motovationusa.com

Thanks very much!
So is there a specific year of 848 push rod to go for?
And when you say you have to clean up the rod what does that mean?

bazbo · Apr 13, 2020

One other thing. I was going to put a magura hymec hydraulic clutch on the bike (Pic attached). This is a pull actuated clutch that uses the existing clutch actuator arm on the clutch cover.
I am wondering if I could use the master cylinder, cable and lever from this instead of buying a new one? Just ditch the slave and attach to the 848 slave?
Any reason this would not work? Is the amount of fluid pushed by the master critical to operation of the slave or does it self adjust?
Does it matter if mineral (blood) oil is used instead of brake fluid (magura uses mineral).

My magura lever and master already has the clutch switch too, so all I would need is the push rod and slave and nothing else?

bazbo · Apr 13, 2020

Clutch pin issue?

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