Drivetrain Torque Specs

Hi gat this is what I could find in the 2013 Hyperstrada workshop manual:

Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the ring (8).
Grease the O-ring (7), and install it on the front sprocket spacer (6).
Fit the spacer, from the O-ring side, on the secondary shaft and drive it fully home against the inner ring of the bearing.
Before refitting the front sprocket, check that the spacer (6) is installed on the gearbox secondary shaft.

Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Fit the front sprocket (5) on the gearbox secondary shaft, orienting it as shown. Fit lockwasher (4).
After having applied the recommended threadlocker, tighten the nut (3) to a torque of 186 Nm ±5%.
Bend the washer (4) over the nut.


Refitting the rear sprocket
Check the cush drive dampers (7) condition and, if necessary, replace them by removing them from the flange.
Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Apply the recommended grease to the outer diameter of rear sprocket holder flange (4).
Fit rear sprocket flange (4) onto rear sprocket (5), engaging cush drive damper pins (7).
Apply recommended threadlocker to the nut thread (8).
Start nuts on cush drive damper pins threaded end (7).
Tighten the nuts (8) to a torque of 48 Nm ± 10%, following a cross pattern.

Refitting the rear wheel
Lubricate the wheel shaft threaded end with recommended grease.
Fit wheel on the shaft, matching (A) with shafts (B).

Fit the spacer (4) with the tapered side facing the wheel, and washer (3); apply the recommended grease to the nut (2) and start nut (2) by hand.
Tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 230 Nm ± 10%, checking that the hole on the nut is aligned with one of those on the wheel shaft.
Fit the clip (1), fitting the end into one of the holes in the shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.

I hope this helps and that it didn't unnecessarily confuse things!

gatdammit said:

That's perfect. I've watched enough video's that this makes sense.

Think just bearing grease will be fine?

Click to expand...

On the pic accompanying "Grease the O-ring (7)" the image has a motor-oil symbol.

On the following two pics, which illustrate the front sprocket, the images have a grease symbol with a large letter B.

In the manual that symbol refers to:

GREASE B
Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical stress and high temperature resistant.
ex: SHELL Retinax HDX2

Grease B symbol is also repeated on the rear sprocket image and refitting the rear wheel images.

Bruce Boxleitner of course!

There's no need to take off the rear wheel. But if you do, the torque on the nut is 175nm NOT 230.

Molybdenum grease is used for a lot of these nuts - probably yamalube will do the trick.

It would be a good idea to get a new o-ring for the front sprocket, and maybe a new washer.

You will have to take off the rear foot peg mount and delink the shifter to get the front sprocket out. Seriously consider an impact wrench for the front sprocket nut.

To tighten the cush drives you have to get a 12mm ( as I remember) allan socket in the rear of the cush and then tighten the nuts. It's a crude stamping, but it is for an allan wrench. A clamp may come in handy.

They are a friction fit, and as you tighten them they expand to hold in place. the nuts have a slightly oval opening, which is a type of thread locking design. I thought they were damaged, but google was my friend.

Hi:

Just to clarify the discrepancy between what appliance and I are telling you.

The workshop manual calls for 230nM which is the equivalent of 170 ft-lbs.

I've attached a screenshot of the manual page I am referring to.

I want to ensure that GAT has the correct info

Here is a link to an enlarged version of the pic in my previous post

CLICK ME

Tron said:

Hi:

Just to clarify the discrepancy between what appliance and I are telling you.

The workshop manual calls for 230nM which is the equivalent of 170 ft-lbs.

I've attached a screenshot of the manual page I am referring to.

I want to ensure that GAT has the correct info

Click to expand...

I have the workshop manual and it uses 2 different specs. The correct spec is 176nm - this is the listing under torque specs, has been long discussed, and it is the correct spec. It really is.

"Fastener retaining wheel shaft on rim side (right)" "M38x1.5" "176*" "GREASE B"
"" "" "" ""

Get the steel rear axle 1/2" socket - worked a lot better than the aluminum one. Yamalube or some other moy grease is what's called for. Red loctite may work, but I think the moly works to prevent galling, and the torque specs are calibrated to it.

Foe the front sprocket nut - a deep impact socket worked fine. That's theonly place I used an impact driver - oof.

Not to be "that guy", but as a barely mediocre mechanic, the 2 things I've learned over the years: Don't force anything, and patience. I'm ready to walk away for an hour when the frustration rises.

Can I ask why you replaced the cush drives?