Evap canister

On the panigale, eliminating the evap canister was almost a must,

Has anyone removed the evap canister on the 698?

Think it is the black part below the right foot peg

DRAWING 35B - EVAP CRAP (screenshot from the spare parts catalogue)

#1 canister filter
#2 bracket carbon canister
#9 valve, breather (looks like there's an electrical connection)
#15 plug (that some techs do or don't remove)
#18 valve (one way pressure relief, based on my tank pressurizing in the sun)

Seems pretty harmless to me. I really struggle to see how it would do SFA for fumes if #15 is removed. Looks like dead weight but mine will stay on at least until the warranty is done.

What was the issue on Panigales?

Braaapster said:

DRAWING 35B - EVAP CRAP (screenshot from the spare parts catalogue)

#1 canister filter
#2 bracket carbon canister
#9 valve, breather (looks like there's an electrical connection)
#15 plug (that some techs do or don't remove)
#18 valve (one way pressure relief, based on my tank pressurizing in the sun)

Seems pretty harmless to me. I really struggle to see how it would do SFA for fumes if #15 is removed. Looks like dead weight but mine will stay on at least until the warranty is done.

What was the issue on Panigales?


View attachment 4841

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From new, like 4 or 5 rides, it gets clogged or to much pressure in the tank

And bike won’t start,

Removed it, and problem solved

Also that one time, I saw you can open the tank and pressure comes out, and bike starts again

If our reluctant starts indeed were caused by tank pressurization, then valve #18 is at fault (excessive cracking pressure?) because plug #15 was removed from my bike, and that would have allowed any venting to go straight to atmosphere (through pipe #14) rather than out through the evap canister. I haven't had any "reluctant start" problems, ever since I started burping my tank, prior to turning on the ignition.

On the Panigale, did you yank everything and cap/plug the port on the intake manifold? I'm not sure if the electrical connector on the breather (purge) valve #9 is for a pressure transducer or a solenoid actuator, but I suspect the wiring harness may need to be connected to a dummy load, in order to keep the ECU happy.

Braaapster said:

If our reluctant starts indeed were caused by tank pressurization, then valve #18 is at fault (excessive cracking pressure?) because plug #15 was removed from my bike, and that would have allowed any venting to go straight to atmosphere (through pipe #14) rather than out through the evap canister. I haven't had any "reluctant start" problems, ever since I started burping my tank, prior to turning on the ignition.

On the Panigale, did you yank everything and cap/plug the port on the intake manifold? I'm not sure if the electrical connector on the breather (purge) valve #9 is for a pressure transducer or a solenoid actuator, but I suspect the wiring harness may need to be connected to a dummy load, in order to keep the ECU happy.

Click to expand...

There are tons of videos on how to remove it from the V4

It was done by my shop, and no problem after.

It is a regulation compliant part, it doesn’t really have any purpose on the bike.

I imagine there would be four steps for a full delete:

1. rip out all of the existing evap crap,
2. install vacuum cap on the intake port at the engine side of hose #10,
3. install resistor termination (value not yet known) on the wiring harness plug for breather (purge) valve #9,
4. route a new tank vent line to the bottom of the bike, in such a way that won't be a fire hazard, and restrict it such that it can't piss gasoline if the bike is dumped.

Looking at the diagram, I think you can do a couple super simple things and just leave the valve plugged in to get results or at least test out if it helps.

Basically it appears all you need to do is remove part #16 (vacuum T) and replace with just a connector eliminating the route to the canister and the remove part 15 the plug in the hose at the bottom of the bike. Then just remove hose 11 and cap the port on the canister and done, tank overflow routes under the bike and no errors and if valve open to suck fuel out of canister that will just do nothing at all as plugged and no longer connected to the tank.

Valve #18 is the key, since it's clearly responsible for the tank being able to pressurize. Reluctant starts occasionally happen when the tank is pressurized, and it's undoubtedly due to the engine being flooded.

I'm looking to replace valve #18 with a fairly restrictive 2-way breather vent that will prevent the ingress of crap (dust, bugs, water, water vapour) as well as ****** fumes and spillage. Something like a sintered or zeolite filter element, or maybe a Gore PreVent. The rest of the crap can stay in place once valve #18 is replaced, but there's no point in dragging dead weight around. In the meantime I just open the gas cap to burp the tank, prior to turning the key on a hot day.

Just look for a video on the panigale v4 removal

This mod has been done for years

The evap gets clogged and pressurize the tank, and bike won’t start

They remove it and replace it with a plastic T JOINT

It wouldn't matter if the evap canister ever got clogged on this bike, Rodolfo, because the right hand side of valve #18 is completely exposed to the atmosphere via tube #14. Tube #14 is there to supply make-up air to the gas tank when fuel is consumed, so plug #15 needs to be removed from these bikes. If plug #15 is left in place then the tank could gradually develop a vacuum, as the tank is drained, and potentially strain the fuel pump and starve the engine.

Tube #14 would allow pressure to exit the tank, if only valve #18 weren't one way. Valve #18 only allows air into the tank, and it prevents fumes from getting out of the tank and down to the evap canister. As far as I can see, it's a really stunned arrangement, and the evap system doesn't (can't) really work as built.