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Help With Brake Job

Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
Mates,

Fitted my HBC pads and replaced the fluid this weekend. Aside from the front reservoir puking brake fluid all over the plastics and shiny parts when I cracked the lid, not that difficult. I deglazed the pads first and added disc quiet to both sets (I'm one of the guys fighting horrible grinding and noise). I didn't replace rear pads- just fresh fluid.

The fronts work beautifully and should be potent with the aftermarket rotors I got from warranty work.

Unfortunately, as soon as I fired the bike up for shakedown run, the rear pedal went straight to the floor with very little resistance. I half expected this as I struggled bleeding the system properly as I couldn't pump and hold the pedal and crack the bleeder. What bothered me more is the plastic diaphragm/baffle in the rear reservoir. It seemed to be misaligned or something when the res emptied enough and I honestly didn't even know it was in there before then. The res actually puked some fluid out as I dried getting pressure up on test ride so I hope the cap isn't jacked up.

Anybody got advice on bleeding the rear with one set of arms/hands? That baffle in the res seems to be trapping a bubble on just the back side of the glass and moves down as I charge the system with pedal. I can get enough pressure to bite pads after about 10 pumps on the pedal.
 
Gat:
See if you can find a speedbleeder, then unbolt the caliper, and keep the bleeder pointed to the sky, i think you will find this works quite well.
Mark
 
I've used power bleeders on cars and they are awesome. But, there also expensive and I think I'd rather just get a buddy.

Any idea about the baffle problem, or just keep bleeding?
 
Gat:
a speedbleeder isn't expensive at all it's a bleeder screw with a built in check valve, google it man.
 
Yeah, not the same thing. I'll look into that. Power bleeders are pneumatic pumps you hook up to a compressor and just keep the reservoir full as it pulls everything through the system.
 
I have not tried it, but Motion Pro makes a "mini bleeder", which is a very simple tool for bleeding more easily. Anybody here have success with that?
 
Gat:
See if you can find a speedbleeder, then unbolt the caliper, and keep the bleeder pointed to the sky, i think you will find this works quite well.
Mark

And then you pump with the pedal? With the caliper off the rotor? :eek::eek::eek:

I have the Motion Pro pump, tried it but the problem is sealing the bleed screw threads. Copious application of teflon tape has not kept it from sucking air instead of fluid. I haven't gotten to my Strada's rear brake yet, but will soon. I've always used the 'pump and release' method.

Think I might even call the dealer to price this job. Shouldn't break the bank!
 
I have the motion pro bleeders and they are quite useless as you still have to undo the bleeder valve which is where the fluid pisses out of. I had hoped the motion pro sealer valve would do everything but nope its still the old: loosen - pump-tighten-fill, loosen-pump-tighten-fill............ (there's a smutty joke in there somewhere :p)
 
Isn't it Pump-Hold-Loosen Bleeder-Tighten Bleeder?

Regardless, doesn't matter. I'm friken stuck on the rear brake. It has something to do with the rubber accordion diaphragm thing in the reservoir. It's trapping air between it and the supply line and eventually just stretches all the way into the supply line inlet if I keep pumping the pedal. No bubbles as I bleed. Looks legit but pedal just keeps falling to the floor. It's so simple and just kicking me in the balls...I have a lot of research to do as I will dominate this system.

And I'm so tired of getting brake fluid all over the aft end of the bike. I know I'm gonna wake up to leopard spots all over the black painted stuff...
 
Man, I'm at a loss with the rear. I pulled the caliper and elevated so bleeder was at highest point; tapped whole assembly with a mallet; flushed half a pint with no bubbles but, the pedal still has no pressure on first pump. It builds pressure much quicker than after my initial bleed but, just loses it once pedal is reset. I can try a vacuum bleeder but really don't think it's gonna help.

Fronts were easy. I used a healthy coat of brake quiet and they worked perfectly from first pull.

I read of a lot of owners on ducati.ms having trouble servicing the rear. I guess they same there is just a tiny bit of air trapped somewhere and your fooked until you find it. Sucks. I've never had this much trouble bleeding 4 disc cars.
 
Can I suggest you try this: (It has helped me in the past)

1. Get someone to help by topping up the reservoir as it is such a small volume you risk running it dry;
2. Pull the rubber bellows out. You may get some splash back on releasing the pedal, if so do it slower or just get your topping up helper to keep it covered.
3. Loosen the bleeder a bit, like 1/2 a turn, and just keep your finger pressed on it - this makes a quick and dirty one way valve (make sure you don't press to hard or have any cuts on your finger as you don't want to inject yourself with fluid).
4. Now pump away slowly and steadily, try to get some volume through it. You are looking to feel some bubbles come out and/or the pedal feel better.
5. Tighten the bleeder and see how it feels. Maybe give it a couple of gently bleeds normally.

Also, when bleeding normally, remember the volume is so low you need to crack the bleeder only for a split second. If you let the pedal go right down and then close the bleeder then you risk sucking air back in.

You live in the USA where everything is cheap, you could try to get a pressure bleeder. It screws onto the reservoir and then you just pressurise it and open the bleeder.
 
The only thing you mentioned that I did not do is only cracking the bleeder for a split second. I was leaving cracked until flow slowed but didn't suck fluid back in.

If you have a weight to hold the pedal down, it's not a difficult one man job. I was able to keep the reservoir above min level by myself.

I checked locally and no one had a pressure bleeder. I may order one.