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Kneading clutch engine stall

Joined Oct 2020
2 Posts | 0+
China
Under normal driving conditions, press and hold the clutch, the engine idling will be unstable, and eventually lead to flameout,Clean the throttle valve and replace with a new spark plug, the problem still exists,Normal idling,No problem riding。o_O
 
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Under normal driving conditions, press and hold the clutch, the engine idling will be unstable, and eventually lead to flameout,Clean the throttle valve and replace with a new spark plug, the problem still exists,Normal idling,No problem riding。o_O
I’ve removed the carbon canister which seemed to make it much more stable starting out from a dead stop. After some riding with bike completely warmed up, it becomes erratic when slowing to a stop and almost stalls but I give it some blips to raise the revs. That certainly is not a solution and can be dangerous when attempting low speed cornering. My bike, a 2016 has a little over 3000mi on it. Like you, I’m looking for a fix. Remapping has had several reviews pro and con. Spend the money? Also still getting false neutrals. Quick shifter? Also pros and cons.
 
False neutrals seem to be a thing with these bikes, you just have to be very assertive with your shifts :) Mine doesn't die often though I have read about that being an issue if the rubber boots on the throttle bodies has degraded. I have noticed that pulling in the clutch while engine braking will cause the revs to drop and nearly stall before the bike recovers and I have occasionally made it still in that case by pulling the clutch in quickly. Hasn't been enough of a problem to worry me as I only notice it around town at stop signs / red lights.
 
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False neutrals seem to be a thing with these bikes, you just have to be very assertive with your shifts :) Mine doesn't die often though I have read about that being an issue if the rubber boots on the throttle bodies has degraded. I have noticed that pulling in the clutch while engine braking will cause the revs to drop and nearly stall before the bike recovers and I have occasionally made it still in that case by pulling the clutch in quickly. Hasn't been enough of a problem to worry me as I only notice it around town at stop signs / red lights.
Hi Nate, was out today with the sole intent of doing some slow parking lot maneuvers but it started raining. Wtf, I’m in CA! None the less, I did try 1st gear decel, pulled the clutch, no stalls. Just that ca-plunk idle. Gotta get into this a bit further. Wanna be friends with this bike!
 
1. Stalling: Firmware update helped with Gen 1...a bit. It was situational. Mine - with tuner - will hover above stall when I come to traffic/ idle after a spirited highway jaunt. I don't recall it ever stalling unless I soft stroke the throttle with clutch disengaged. Basically, I can coax it into stalling but left to it's own will keep ticking. I'm positive my intake manifolds are shot and will replace very soon.

2. False Neutrals: As noted, you have to be firm with this Italian princess when shifting. I'm probably institutionalized after 7 years, but I certainly crush downshifts and have to adjust/ tighten my shift linkage often. Oh ya, if the shifter banjo's get slacked out your gear changes suffer dramatically, especially finding neutral.
 
1. My main concern is the low speed technique of clutch slipping while feathering the throttle and dragging the rear brake. If it does stall a tipover will follow! Remapping still an option?

2. The linkage seems in spec. Only 3000+ miles so far. I did adjust the lever up a little to get more leverage on downshifts. Still occasional false neutrals and depending on what mood she’s in, finding neutral when stopped is a challenge.
 
Have them reset TPS. Can't do it at home. The dealer needs to do it. . it's either revap can or software in my opinion. I have a light weight flywheel and I still don't get stalling or flasme out.
 
Went out today for a couple hours (Santa Rosa to Calistoga). I think by knowing it’s going to drop revs to that thumpy idle without dying I’m more comfortable with the characteristic. No stalls and only one false neutral! Btw, what’s TPS?
 
Throttle position sensors. They need to be in sync with eachother as well as the ecu. They honest need to be reset from time to time. When my bike starts to run rough I check the stuff at home and if that doesn't fix it I take it in for sensor reset and tps reset/resync. Makes a night and day difference. They often fall out of sync. In carburetor application it was a matter of vaccim guages to sync the carbs but in the age of modern fuel injection we have TPS sync. I bet that fixes your issue. On the 796/1100 and older bikes it was not uncommon for the tps to need replacing due to the design. On the 821/939/950 it's different using magnets and what not and not wiper resistors(I think that is the term for the old).
 
Ah, ya know what, I started noticing the near stall right after I applied the tune. I suspect the dealer didn't reset or sync the TPS when they had it in for the 18k service because, of course they wouldn't.
 
Throttle position sensors. They need to be in sync with eachother as well as the ecu. They honest need to be reset from time to time. When my bike starts to run rough I check the stuff at home and if that doesn't fix it I take it in for sensor reset and tps reset/resync. Makes a night and day difference. They often fall out of sync. In carburetor application it was a matter of vaccim guages to sync the carbs but in the age of modern fuel injection we have TPS sync. I bet that fixes your issue. On the 796/1100 and older bikes it was not uncommon for the tps to need replacing due to the design. On the 821/939/950 it's different using magnets and what not and not wiper resistors(I think that is the term for the old).
Got it, thanks. I hope at 3000mi I’m a long way from this. Will try to find some tech papers on the subject.
 
Ah, ya know what, I started noticing the near stall right after I applied the tune. I suspect the dealer didn't reset or sync the TPS when they had it in for the 18k service because, of course they wouldn't.
Ironic that I’m getting used to it! Seemed pretty predictable yesterday. At the point now where I think I’ll hold off on a reflash. Have read some of the less than complimentary comments, not to mention $$$ dropped!
On the same topic, my ‘06 SV 650 (also sold prior to the CA move) started running poorly, stalling, stuttering. Pulled the tank, removed fuel pump, pulled injectors and blew everything out although no sign of dirt or varnish. Took it to the dealer who was stumped until finally synced the throttle bodies. Got it back to running like a rocket.
 
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Hi everyone, new to this forum and I bought a hyperstrada 821 ten months ago, I was riding it everyday since then and recently I got a problem with stalling and erratic idle when engine is getting over 60 degree C.It started after I have driven through a very heavy rain.I removed evap canister first- no change. Then replaced air filter - no change. Then I replaced spark plugs and cleaned throttle bodies - no change. I was very dissapointed at that moment. Then I started to check the dash menu and battery was reading LOW, then rpm reading was 1250-1350, at that point I realized that something was going in ECU, disconnected battery negative first and left it for an hour or two, then I connected it back positive first and thats it, it runs as good as it was before. Battery reads 14.1 volts and rpms are 1350-1450. So my case maybe is best example to start from cheapest solution. Just forgot mileage is 17000 km.
 
Avtuka, greetings and glad that worked. Disconnecting battery is still my first troubleshooting step when things seem electrical. Unfortunately, that has never solved a single issue I've had on this bike.
 
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