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List of rearsets options

Joined Sep 2017
595 Posts | 121+
Lansing Mi
I wanted to put together a list of all the adjustable aftermarket rearsets . I'd like you guys to add to the list of I missed adjustable rearsets(not foot peg or lever replacements like Lightech and Bonamici , actual adjustable rearsets). This list would have made my life so much easier so I'm hoping it will help others going forward.


SPIDER REARSETS- £588/$645


AEM "ADVENTURE" ADJUSTABLE REARSET- £590/$647 driver and additional £290/$318 to add passengers to it. Most links advertise them as "£290" till you select drivers.


Gecko Racing- price ranges depending on options. They have the most choices for color combinations, pegs and lever tips than anyone else. A big plus to these is that they are all flat and and anyone with a saw/cut off wheel can make a replacement piece easily if anything happens. €229/$247 drivers. €394/$427 every option including passengers addition and folding tips on the brake n shifter. These have bushing pivots for levers.


Woodcraft- $779.99 drivers only. Doesn't look like they have a passenger add on but I could be wrong. These have bushing lever pivots


CNC Racing- €917/$994 drivers. Add on €173/$191 for passanger. These have ball bearing pivots for the levers


Ducabike- $699.95 drivers. I'm not sure but I believe you can add on passanger for additional $. Bushing lever pivots.


RSV Racing- TBH 7,500/$232+ shipping from Thailand total $327 (drivers and passanger )to my door. I just ordered these . They are CNC machined and made to order. Bearing pivots. The Thai people see to love them and rave about quality. I will share many many pics once they arrive.
 

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I've been close to pulling the trigger but the cost of passenger setup is silly. Why wouldn't you just make a set that works with the stock pax pegs? They're aluminum and not very heavy.

I really want to delete this shifter bushing slop. It's ridiculous.
 
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I'm using a Bonamici shift lever to accommodate my RB quickshifter load cell. The set up isn't ideal but it works. The ideal set up for shifter to lever engine lever is to be parallel like I I. The Bonamici accepts the load cell but you must run linkage positions in a far off clocked orientation more like a V. This is just to help straiten out my shifting, give me a little more adjustability and they look fancy, I love fancy looking things. And at the price of the RSV I figured it was well worth the try. Especially if they turn out to be as good as they are said to be. The OEM is bushing shifter pivot. I did the cheap Chinese shifter a few years back and it was bushing. Later I milled it out and pressed in ceramic bearings. That felt alot better. The Bonamici is a bearing pivot. It just feels more side with no slop. But, in the end the 2 main reasons for my purchase is because wanted the linkages parallel and I think they look cool
 

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I've been close to pulling the trigger but the cost of passenger setup is silly. Why wouldn't you just make a set that works with the stock pax pegs? They're aluminum and not very heavy.

I really want to delete this shifter bushing slop. It's ridiculous.
Why did Ducati have to make the OEM rearsets so complicated. I believe if they were am easier design there would have been a bunch more people making them. I'm also not happy about their gas cap and the fact that there are only 2 screws holding it on . The aftermarket options are very slim there as well. I wanted one like Assocciato or Shift-tech , one with a bunch of machining marks. I ended up with Driven Racing and it needed to be adjusted to make it fit nicely
 
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Installed DB rearsets w/ passenger option, which I'm saving until I need it. Thought this would be best place to leave quick review:

Installation: Not bad. You'll need a full set of hex bits/ wrenches and a 24mm socket for the swingarm mount. Be careful with this bolt. It's soft aluminum and I spun the head right off one years back - don't use an impact gun and mind the 55 NM torque spec.
Be sure you seat the rearset fully with a mallet before installing the bolt. You'll need a paddock stand if you don't have center stand. But maybe a 4/10 difficulty and easily accomplished in my parking lot. Test configurations and once you have your preferred setup, use thread locker on everything. The footpegs tried spinning off during a test ride. Hardware is very high quality. Oh, keep the half-moon spring clips from OEM pegs that hold the pivot bar in place. The DB uses same clip and these are probably the easiest to loose bit of hardware on this bike. You will not find it on a gravel lot.

Adjustability: Feels limitless with the peg bracket system and lot's of lever adjustability. The lack of a spring on the brake control was sketchy at first, but after playing with the stop screw and plunger, works great. I installed a quick shifter and used some haim bolts I cut down to accommodate the solenoid. The only problem I ran into was the center stand kick lever crowding my initial preferred peg placement (left side). I'm forced to either stick with the really aggressive (high and forward) setup or remove the center stand. I can't fault them for designing performance controls without the center stand in mind, but I'm very attached to my stand and really don't want to take it off. I'm thinking about cutting the kick lever down to just above the brace.

Function: Amazing. Even though there's a little play in the shift lever mount, the action is very crisp and direct. I can probably get rid of the slop with a washer or two. This was one of my biggest complaints of OEM shifter. Even with aftermarket lever, the OEM pivot mount always had a ton of slop, which I think contributed to the linkage constantly slacking out and ruining shift action. The pegs are pretty aggressive and probably not the best solution for long-haul comfort but, the performance/ adjustability/ weight savings is bigger factor. I've only done about 40 miles on them and I did notice some discomfort in my left foot from rubbing the sharp edges of the shift lever when rowing gears. That was on initial test run and I made big adjustments to peg layout after that ride. Simple answer would be better boots if it keeps bothering me. I'm also a little worried about riding the rear brake as it doesn't have a lot of throw and the only resistance is the actual actuator. The OEM setup with the spring gave enough resistance that I could rest without dragging.

I'm officially a DucaBike fanboy but they really do make high quality gear. As much as I strip this bike down over and over, good hardware (talking nuts, bolts, screws) makes life so much easier when they can stand up to repeated abuse.
 
Hell if the right swingarm bold didn't shear during my ride home yesterday. Was on a fast sweeper and felt jolt in my foot. Thought maybe hit something or one of the controls spun loose (again). I looked down and probed with my foot and everything was there. Got home to find that thump I felt was the bolts snapping and the rearset springing outward. As with most critical mounting hardware on this bike, I have a spare in the shed.

Am I crazy, or was aluminum a poor choice for this high stress hardware point? Spun the head off one years ago with not insane amount of impact pressure. This sheared between the rearset and swingarm (sorta duh!), but I'm kinda scratching my head as to why this won't happen again. I can't remember if the isomeric bearings were part of the OEM rearset or imbedded in the swingarm. Really hope this isn't directly related to my suspension issues.
 
My wife and kids got my bike professionally detailed for me for last Father's day and when I picked the bike up the owner came to me and showed me that that exact bolt was unthreading and almost out. We threaded it back in and tightened it so I could get the bike home but after torqueing it with locktite I never had another issue. I don't think there is that much stress on that part being that it's plastic isolated on the pivot. If you remember, oem was rubber(rubber formed around a steel bushing in the same was an automotive motor mount is). To.me this means that there should be some movement between the swingarm and the rearsets. The rest of the rearsets is ridgedly mounted to the engine caseing. Looking at it right now I don't see how anything could impact the function of the swingarm if it were to just be loose unless the whole pivot shaft were to start sliding out. The shaft gos through one side of the swingarm pivot point into the engine case and then through the other side of the swingarm pivot pool not. As long as the shaft stays put it seems like it will have no effect on the suspension
 
I think I knew it's only purpose was to secure rearsets to frame. I couldn't daily it like this and would probably just damage rearsets eventually. Vibes, rough roads, standing on the pegs, being heavier than the average bear, and now much more rigid than OEM gear...don't have faith it won't happen again with the way I ride. And I loctite everything as I've had an obscene amount of hardware come loose or fall off.

And I suck at bolt extraction. Despite how often I strip hardware, I've never mastered extractors. Luckily this on is large diameter...
 
Good news! It's much worse than I thought. The collar on the end of the swingarm axle that retains the rearset/swingarm bolt snapped (see pic). Luckily, it's part of the swingarm axle and not a welded frame point. A $170 mishap but at least I don't need a welder. If anyone knows about the thrust washer pack for the rear swingarm axle, please share. Parts site says 2 each of 1.8mm, 0.2mm and 0.1 mm. However, I only see 2 used in the parts diagram.
 

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