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Motorcycle oil vs car oil = save yer money

A

appliance821

Joined Jun 2014
1K Posts | 46+
Boston
I recently changed my oil using some Mobil 1 synthetic car oil (just standard - not for worn engines etc). It's relatively cheap at about $9/quart(liter) and comes in the proper weights.

I recently read a post about car oils and possible damage to bike catalytics which puzzled me since cataytics are catalytics. Other concerns such as higher revs, transmissions etc prompted a brief google search that came up with this article on a ducati site:

Motorcycle Oils vs. Automotive Oils

The upshot is that there is no difference, and when directly asked, the "motorcycle" oil makers could come up with no definitive reply.

Apart from oils with special additives, I'm going with the lower priced car synthetic.
 
dragoontwo nailed it

motorbike oil has addons to prohibit clutsch slipping, as most bikes (beside older Ducatis which have dry clutch) have clutch in oilbath and no dry clutch like cars
 
appliance - The test you have referenced was conducted somewhere between 1988 and 1993 because it references API SG rating. We are currently up to API SN. All oils have changed quite a bit since then.

Also, at ~$9/qt. you aren't too far away from AMSoil territory.

ferdi - I think what you mean to say is that car oriented oils have more friction modifiers where motorcycle oriented oils have none or very little.
 
This thread is beating a dead horse. Any oil that meets JASO-MA certification is able to be used in the Hyperstrada. All bike oils meets this requirement, and some diesel oils do as well. Car oil does not.
 
ferdi said:
dragoontwo nailed it

motorbike oil has addons to prohibit clutsch slipping, as most bikes (beside older Ducatis which have dry clutch) have clutch in oilbath and no dry clutch like cars
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It's been over 1000 miles of smiles.
 
monocog007 said:
This thread is beating a dead horse. Any oil that meets JASO-MA certification is able to be used in the Hyperstrada. All bike oils meets this requirement, and some diesel oils do as well. Car oil does not.
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As long as you stay away from special "friction reducing/energy saver" oils it's all good.
 
Ive used mobil ! car oil in my bikes for years with no ill affects. And at $26 for 5 qt at Walmart you can't beat it.
 
That article was the most pathetic thing I've ever read!
I don't even know where to start debunking that much ********!
First viscosity retention was (like mentioned) an issue in the 70s, today's car oil has to be much better, but even then in his own test he compared 2 full synthetic car oils to how many synthetic motorcycle oils?? NONE!! The motorcycle oils were a petroleum and a petroleum-blend, one that is OEM for a Harley and one that's OEM for an ancient Magna.
Second our bikes use a wet clutch something car oil would never be expected to take into consideration when blending it's oils, it's takes a tone of friction modifiers and additives to consider a motorcycle oil needs to be a gear oil for transmission pressure additives for the crank bearings and still be thin enough to work in the roller bearings of the top end, what our oil goes through really boggles the mind when you think about it!
Third was something he mentioned at the end but didn't go into enough detail was the filtering he did after the oil was out of the bike and before going into his testing, large particulates, he mentions using centrifugal force for 10 min before testing and never mentions what was removed. I'd be willing to bet more would come from an automotive synthetic then a motorcycle synthetic. Why? Because the blend would be designed with a much smaller oil pump and much smaller passage ways. A large car motor can practically move a marble anywhere in the motor but your ducati simply can't.
I could go on but I think I've made my point, if you want to save $60 a year on oil and risk total failure likely of you're clutch or top end, that's up to you.
 
Best of luck with your decision to use auto oil in a wet clutch engine.

Keep the bike in Urban mode to reduce tire wear too.
 
R6chase said:
That article was the most pathetic thing I've ever read!
I don't even know where to start debunking that much ********!
First viscosity retention was (like mentioned) an issue in the 70s, today's car oil has to be much better, but even then in his own test he compared 2 full synthetic car oils to how many synthetic motorcycle oils?? NONE!! The motorcycle oils were a petroleum and a petroleum-blend, one that is OEM for a Harley and one that's OEM for an ancient Magna.
Second our bikes use a wet clutch something car oil would never be expected to take into consideration when blending it's oils, it's takes a tone of friction modifiers and additives to consider a motorcycle oil needs to be a gear oil for transmission pressure additives for the crank bearings and still be thin enough to work in the roller bearings of the top end, what our oil goes through really boggles the mind when you think about it!
Third was something he mentioned at the end but didn't go into enough detail was the filtering he did after the oil was out of the bike and before going into his testing, large particulates, he mentions using centrifugal force for 10 min before testing and never mentions what was removed. I'd be willing to bet more would come from an automotive synthetic then a motorcycle synthetic. Why? Because the blend would be designed with a much smaller oil pump and much smaller passage ways. A large car motor can practically move a marble anywhere in the motor but your ducati simply can't.
I could go on but I think I've made my point, if you want to save $60 a year on oil and risk total failure likely of you're clutch or top end, that's up to you.
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Wet clutches are only new to ducati - I think you're being a little excitable.

Some manufacturers choose to get JASO-MA certification, and some don't. It is a reassurance that it's motorcycle compatible, but many that don't get the cert are as well.

Synthetics are far more resistant to loss of viscosity and shearing than the mineral oils that have been used for wet clutch bikes for decades. The 821 is also watercooled so the internals function in a controlled environment.

If you stay away from afore mentioned specialty oils, and use the proper viscosity synthetic - I just don't see the problem. If you want to pay more, then JASO-MA seems to be money in the bank - just not your bank.
 
I'm a big fan of Rotella T6. In my opinion, as long as you stay away from oils labeled as being energy cinserving, you won't have a clutch problem. My belief is that you can buy the shittiest oil out there, and as long as you recharge it reasonably frequently you'll be fine.who ever owns a bike long enough to wear the engine out anyway?
 
bigfoot said:
My car has a wet clutch too. Just saying.
VW group DSG.
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Yeah, except the oil isn't shared between the DSG and the engine. On modern motorcycles it is. VW can tailor an oil to fit the needs of only the gearbox, JASO-MA oils have to meet the needs of the gearbox, clutch, and engine as well.

You guys have fun with your gambling to save a few bucks.