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Removing left fairing

Joined Oct 2013
43 Posts | 0+
Denver
I asked my dealer's shop how to remove the left hand fairing because the bottom bolt just spins when trying to loosen it. He said you needed a 24mm wrench to hold a nut on the frame side of the fairing in place while undoing the bolt.

This is hard to believe considering how large a 24mm wrench is. It's very impractical for a travel tool kit just for this one purpose. And because the front fuse box is behind this fairing, it puts you in a tough spot if you're on the road.

This seems hard to believe. Am I missing something or is this the reality of things?

TIA
 
The fairings are a byotch to get off. Certainly nothing 24mm, but there is one tough large bolt that you have to use 2 wrenches on.

As for the fuse box, you don't need to take the fairing off to get to it. You have to lift UP until it releases from tiny slot/groove lock, then AFT and it will pop off it's frame rail bracket.
 
if its the bolt I'm thinking of...the one in the fairing vent...then just reach in behind and feel for the part that is spinning, and hold it. Most of the snugness is rubber tension, but you should be able to hold it still while unscrewing the bolt with a hex on the outside.
 
There is pictures of this bike naked with studed tires in one of the winter threads.
 
If I remember right there are 3 screws. One is under the seat, one is in the side slot that goes into a rubber bushing. You can reach behind the fairing and hold the bushing with your hand or a I think 20 mm wrench. the nut us very thin. The third one is on the black plastic next to the fork tube/steering neck. Once removed you either slide forward or rearward about a 1/4 inch to release the tabs which engage the black fuel tank cover.
 
That big hex thing (#7 on page 122 of the parts catalog) is actually a nut with a big thin flange. I used a pair of pliers to hold it while turning the bolt. I must say that this particular fastening is bizarre; never seen anything like it in nearly 50 years of riding and wrenching. Seems dumb to hide the fuse block under it, especially considering the minimal toolkit.
 
I agree and was my source of bewilderment when my Duc tech said he uses a 24mm wrench to hold it in place. Even if I wanted to carry a foot long wrench just for this use, Home Depot didn't even have anything over 22mm!

Also, the fairings on previous Hypers were only held in place by 3 or4 hex bolts without any of the complications on the 821.

That big hex thing (#7 on page 122 of the parts catalog) is actually a nut with a big thin flange. I used a pair of pliers to hold it while turning the bolt. I must say that this particular fastening is bizarre; never seen anything like it in nearly 50 years of riding and wrenching. Seems dumb to hide the fuse block under it, especially considering the minimal toolkit.
 
I promise you can remove fuse block without taking fairing off. You just got to see the securing method with the fairing off once, then you can do it by feel with the fairing on.
 
I agree and was my source of bewilderment when my Duc tech said he uses a 24mm wrench to hold it in place. Even if I wanted to carry a foot long wrench just for this use, Home Depot didn't even have anything over 22mm!

Also, the fairings on previous Hypers were only held in place by 3 or4 hex bolts without any of the complications on the 821.

I needed a pair of 24mm open ends to adjust the Ohlins on the wifey's SV. So I got a pair of cheap chinese combination wrenches for about $7 each at a local hardware store (not a national chain) and took them to my welder. He has a big hydraulic shear that I used to cut them in half - there is not enough clearance to use them unless they are shortened. I even thinned one down on my belt grinder for nut clearance, would not do that to any of my good tools!

I'll bet if you search fleabay you can find similar deals.