RSV Racing rearsets review

After a week of adjusting and tuning these RSV rearsets on my 2013 831 I am ready to share real world info. There are definitely some quirks to them , none of which are a deal breaker for me. They are said to be 6065 t6 billet aluminum and I have no reason to doubt that at this point. They look very well made but you can notice where the cutting bits were starting to get dull. Again, not a deal breaker just something to note. Noone will ever notice. It is one of those things you see if you have them in hand and scrutinizing them. They have a good amount of adjustability, from +1in forward to -4in backwards. They need to be taken apart from the factory to assure everything is tight, while you are in there might as well swap out the peg bolt and 2 peg perch bolts to grade 8. It will cost you $8 from your local bolt shop. The original are stainless and that is nice but I'm fat and need the piece of mind of grade 8. Another quirk, on the back side of my specific set the countersink area that accepts the bolt that gos through the peg was not quite big enough for the flange on the countersink bolt. I kept going for rides and noticing the pegs would be able to wiggle when I was done at the end of the day. At the end of the day the undersides countersink hole was the reason. The bolt would wiggle wiggle wiggle in making it loose. Eventually the hole would self clearance and you would not need to keep tightening but I ended up taking a little off the outermost edge of the countersink grade 8 bolt , just enough for them to fully seat. The only other thing that the average consumer should know before buying, on the brake side the rearsets come positioned -3in and up slightly. This is perfect if that is where you like your riding position . If you are looking to be closer to stock but up a little then you will need to be creative with the lever return spring because the top spring mount occupies one of the holes in the grid needed for the peg to be in that position. My solution was to cut a small piece of stainless in a slightly different shape than the peg mount leaving one side slightly bigger to drill a hole for the spring. If you like your legs back more then this will not be an issue.

Now for the specs, the pivot points on both shifter and brake are double cartridge bearing design. The shifter side utilizes the same pivot point as the peg itsself. This is both good and bad. It is good because you can move the peg anywhere you want and the distance from the shifter tip to the peg never changes. It is bad if you aren't happy with the distance between the shifter and the peg. I like the distance so it is great for me. The brake side, the brake lever pivot is fixed to the rearsets and the peg mount gets moved around. The tip has 2 adjustment positions. This rearest utilizes the OEM brake light switch so there is no need to source a hydraulic banjo bolt switch(most of the other ones need the banjo switch). These come with the passanger peg assembly as well. The mount is removable. The passanger legs are also removable from the mounts (incase you want the exhaust hanger but no peg). Back to the shifter side, the assembly comes with a spacer that pushes the peg and shifter out about 1in. I removed this since I was reaching these specific bolts with grade 8 I was able to get the corrected length. You will need to buy a small washer to replace the spacer. The washer needs to be smaller than the bearing . This allows it all to compress on the bearing race as opposed to the outside of the bearing. The spacers are machined to allow for the pressure on the bearing race. Both the shifter and the brake have removable/replaceable tips. Everything lined right up to the bike without issue. All in all I'm happy and would do it all over again but I feel knowing these things would have been helpful going into the purchase. Each side drops about half a pound fully dressed vs fully dressed OEM (if you are interested in that)

If you are someone who likes communication from a company that produces 'made to order' parts then you will be very frustrated . After purchase I hear nothing from the company till I received a tracking code. And even at that point it was from the shipping company and not them. I emailed them numerous times with no reply. Took about 2 weeks from the time I ordered them to arrive at my house in the USA, these are made in Thailand. They cost $330 shipped.

The 831 was a typeo, it's an 821. Lol.

I'll get a list together of bolt lengths.
The shift lever slop is completely gone now. The bearings took care of that.
There is enough rod length but you need to cut the rod. Im not sure if it's threaded all the way through. I took a piece of aluminum rod, cut it to the length I needed then drilled and tapped it myself in order to fit the RB load cell. If you are wanting to fit a QS load cell then you might want to get a kit of random spacers or if you are running the same cell as I am I can measure mine and you could just buy that size(that is if you like the lever in a similar location as I do).
As for the passanger legs vibrating. I took them off right away. I never ride with a passanger so I didn't need them. But, they are very stiff to put down so I don't believe they would vibrate at all.

You have alot of adjustability. The biggest reason I got them was to give better space for the RB load cell and also have the levers(shifter vs engine side shifter) line up in a parallel configuration. The Bonamici lever worked but the pivot point was turned so far back to squease that load cell inline and then I had almost zero adjustability for raising and lowering the lever itsself.

Did they include anything for the added hassle? Side by side with the ducabike, are they comparable to the Ducabike in "in hand" feel and quality?