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Sprockets OEM vs JT carrier n Superlite steel side by side

Joined Sep 2017
595 Posts | 121+
Lansing Mi
He is my findings. Side by side comparison. OEM sprocket(20k miles on it) weighs 1724g/3.8lbs. JT sprocket carrier with Superlite steel sprocket (feels like it has a hard coating on it as well)mounted weighs 1062g/2.34lbs. They both are 45 tooth. The OEM is for a 525 chain, the Superlite is a 520. I'd say that is a big difference in sprung weight. That wasnt my main focus but I'll take it. Something to note, the JT carrier doesnt just slide into the Superlite sprocket. It is a snug fit. I'm not sure that they were intended exactly to be used with one another but they do in fact fit and I'm pretty sure you want a snug fit at that point anyways. I think it looks cooler than the OEM sprocket as well. Time will tell how it holds up. ...will be using the DID ERV3 chain .
 

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Araitim,
I went with a similar setup, but just went full stupid on the sprocket center options selector (quick change carrier, superlite everything, 520, DID ERV3). I also purchased the poly sprocket bushings, which practically disintegrated on first install. They warrantied them and didn't have any problems but left me hesitant on whether those are worth it. It's possible the OEM torque they recommended was too snug and mushroomed them out beyond spec. I went a little lighter on the torque and no issues.

I tend to bulk-package my mods as I don't get much free time to wrench, plus I don't have a shelter/ garage. I do think where I noticed the weight and inertia savings with the sprocket/ chain upgrade was in the higher gears. Previously, my Strada would run out of steam in 4th gear. Now, 4th and 5th have much more linear grunt all the way to redline.
 
Dis you keep OEM tooth count or did you make changes? I'm going down 1 in the front. In fact. it's all torn apart right now waiting on the mailman. He came through but didnt have it now I'm pissed because I cant ride and it's one of the only nice days left this year that I dont have to work. I shopped around to get the price down. I think its so much more at sprocket center because they use a different carrier than the JT(although they look the same and are the same shape). The one they use is quite a bit more expensive.
 
I went 14T front, OEM rear. Be interested in hearing if you get the 2nd gear stumble that Kuksol and I had/have. Could be linked to RapidBike.

You're definitely a smarter shopper than me. I was sold on the pre-sized chain option. I'm a sucker for no-fuss package deals.
 
2nd gear stumble? I havnt noticed anything till this point. I'll let you know once I get the new sprocket n chain on. Do you have a link to the conversation? I'm running a slightly modified Kuksol map and settings.
 
misfire thread

We randomly discussed it in a couple other threads but this was the main conversation. No idea and has my mechanic stumped. He thinks it's an engine speed miscompare or faulty reading from one of the sensors and suspects the tuner may be involved. It's back in the shop and hopefully he makes more progress.
 
Got to take it out today. Temps 35°F and its misting but I ride in this whether, just mentioning it because I dont ride aggressively when it is like this. What I thought was a fueling issue due to my specific rapidbike settings is completely gone with the new sprockets n chain. At low speeds it would pull throughout the rpm but you could feel a surging till you got higher in the rpm. You tend to not notice how bad it is when you ride every day and the problem progressively comes up. Just did a 20mile loop and it was so smooth throughout the whole range in every gear. I am kicking myself for not doing this sooner because of how smooth everything is now. The dash was reading 6000ish rpm at 85 mph and 7000ish at 95mph. It definitely pulls harder. This is exactly what I was looking for, to add a little more excitement back to the bike. No more noise while coasting to a stop as well. The old front sprocket had slightly hooked teeth. I cant describe how happy I am with this maintenance/upgrade. Like a new bike again.

Total weight loss was over 2lbs.
Notice the teeth on the old front sprocket.
Notice how much the old chain had stretched.
 

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I went the same route - Superlite sprocket on a JT carrier.
 

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Definitely time for a new chain on my bike after 16k, I've noticed some stiff links and noise from the drivetrain when riding around town (the only time I don't have ear plugs in) and I can pull the chain away from the rear sprocket a bit.

If I'm doing this I'm performance focused, but a little bling can't hurt. I'm curious if you considered the superlight carrier at all, it seems like it'd be similar quality to the JT carrier, and it comes in pretty colors, so there's that.

Also debating going up a a few teeth in the rear as I'm told that'll solve some of the low end snatchiness. However, is that going to mess up my speed readings?

Still debating on going down to 520, I'm not generally an aggressive rider and favor smooth speed to launching off the line or popping wheelies, but I do like to know things aren't going to explode when I do feel a little rowdy.

Also, for front sprockets, I've seen some that have a rubber "damping", but it looks like that's just on the sides of the sprocket which seems kinda gimmicky to me.

I'm probably go for a CNC racing carrier cover as well, just because it's pretty.

Anyway, what do you all think?
 
Definitely time for a new chain on my bike after 16k, I've noticed some stiff links and noise from the drivetrain when riding around town (the only time I don't have ear plugs in) and I can pull the chain away from the rear sprocket a bit.

If I'm doing this I'm performance focused, but a little bling can't hurt. I'm curious if you considered the superlight carrier at all, it seems like it'd be similar quality to the JT carrier, and it comes in pretty colors, so there's that.

Also debating going up a a few teeth in the rear as I'm told that'll solve some of the low end snatchiness. However, is that going to mess up my speed readings?

Still debating on going down to 520, I'm not generally an aggressive rider and favor smooth speed to launching off the line or popping wheelies, but I do like to know things aren't going to explode when I do feel a little rowdy.

Also, for front sprockets, I've seen some that have a rubber "damping", but it looks like that's just on the sides of the sprocket which seems kinda gimmicky to me.

I'm probably go for a CNC racing carrier cover as well, just because it's pretty.

Anyway, what do you all think?

The Superlite carrier is quit a bit more money than the JT which is why I chose the JT. I cant believe that the Superlite carrier is any lighter than the JT, definitely not worth triple the price for a few grams. JT=$60 , Superlite =$180. I look for 'bang for the buck' and performance. I went with the DID 520 chain that I chose based on many reviews and the fact that their advertisements say "
Rated to 750cc's (this chain is commonly used on 1000cc race bikes from the amatuer to professional level)".

I'm asking the wife for a fancy carrier cover for christmas. I'm eyeballing the AEM piece.

That rubber is supposed to cut down on harmonic noise from what I read. It's a necessary piece for many motorcycle companies to achieve their certification and what not OR to appease picky riders that complain about specific noises. Those are the 2 legitimate things that I have read as to why it is on OEM front sprockets.

I went down 1 tooth in the front which is equal to +3 in the rear. The bike is running beautifully smooth again but a bit easier to wheelie and get to top speed(I'm not much of a top speed guy). The speedometer is still right where it is supposed to be which makes me assume that speed is calculated by wheel speed on these bikes as opposed to transmission speed but I dont know for sure.

I use my bike as a daily driver and occasionally get aggressive. This whole package brought the excitement back to the bike.
 
Can you tell me from which store you purchased the parts? thanks!

Carrier- Amazon.com: JT Sprockets JTA750B Aluminum Rear Sprocket Carrier: Automotive

Chain- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006O85BY2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Front sprocket - 520 Conversion Front Sprocket 14 Teeth Ducati Hypermotard 821 2013-2015 | eBay

Rear sprocket was also from Ebay but it's not available anymore. It is the same sprocket and just about the same price. - SUPERLITE (#50607R) RS7 Series 520 Pitch Steel Rear QC Sprocket - fits PCD1/ PCD2/ MV - 821 Hypermotard 2013-2015 - Ducati - STREET

These links are for exactly what I got. If you have a 13-14 bike then they will be the same(except for going -1 in the front). If you have a 15-19 bike they have a different sprocket size.
 
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A couple of things:

There is an o-ring behind the front sprocket that should be replaced

It might not be a bad idea the replace the thin washer you bend over to lock the front sprocket in place. Kuksol used 2 as his let go.

I'd like to get a front sprocket with rubber damping but no-one seems to sell them for this bike though JT lists one. I've read they're common on Japanese bikes since the 90s. Sounds like a good idea though not necessary.
 
A couple of things:

There is an o-ring behind the front sprocket that should be replaced

It might not be a bad idea the replace the thin washer you bend over to lock the front sprocket in place. Kuksol used 2 as his let go.

I'd like to get a front sprocket with rubber damping but no-one seems to sell them for this bike though JT lists one. I've read they're common on Japanese bikes since the 90s. Sounds like a good idea though not necessary.

Sprocketcenter has the rubber damping ones in stock for 520 and 525.
https://sprocketcenter.com/street-s...ch-rubber-dampened-front-sprocket-ducati.html

https://sprocketcenter.com/street-s...ch-rubber-dampened-front-sprocket-ducati.html
 
Definitely time for a new chain on my bike after 16k, I've noticed some stiff links and noise from the drivetrain when riding around town (the only time I don't have ear plugs in) and I can pull the chain away from the rear sprocket a bit.

If I'm doing this I'm performance focused, but a little bling can't hurt. I'm curious if you considered the superlight carrier at all, it seems like it'd be similar quality to the JT carrier, and it comes in pretty colors, so there's that.

If the chain can touch the swingarm and you've adjusted all the way out, it's time to do the deed.

I went with the superlight because sprockets are easy to find for it. I remember ordering both and the JT was missing some hardware and didn't seem as well machined. YMMV I think the superlight cost just a bit more than the OEM and moving forward sprockets will be cheaper.
 
Another thing - I broke the chain with the motion pro portable chain breaker - worked fine without any grinding etc.. Greased it befor using. So cheap and good.

I also used the EK screw on type master link because I don't know how to rivet and wasn't interested in "if at first you don't succeed" ouch. Anyway, the screw type link has worked fine for about 15,000 miles.

Nice thing is that of you do long rides you can bring a couple, along with a few extra links of chain, and do an easy roadside repair. Just need and 8mm wrench and the motion pro type chain breaker.

https://www.motosport.com/ek-chains-zvx3-screw-type-master-link

https://www.motionpro.com/a/chain-breaker/

...and while I'm bloviating - do yourself a favor and use an impact wrench to remove the front sprocket nut - done and done.
 
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I went with this chain breaker/rivet tool and the supplied rivet master link. There are many reviews and videos about this specific tool, half good and half bad. The bad all talk about how it difficult to thread and get alot of pressure. That all points to threads that arent cleaned up and lack of grease. I wire wheeled the threads and used some grease on the threads of the tool as well as the points the touch the links and it worked flawlessly. Very good product for the price after you do a couple things to make it work the way it is supposed to(especially since it will only be used a hand full of times in its life or before i lose it). It allows you to put the pressure on the links to load the plates then activate the riveting pin which is really nice. Those screw on master links seem weak imo. They also look odd and out of place imo. Not that they are inferior but if the goal is "bling" then a mismatched master link doesnt really foot the bill with it being out in the open. I believe those are also not ment to be reused numerous times. If I'm not mistaken, dont they snap off a section of it once it is locked down? If we are replacing every o ring and lock washer then we surely wont be reusing a non-servicable master link given the severity if it were to fail, right?

I may be lucky but in my 30+ years of riding I have never broke a chain or needed to field modulate one to get me home(on road or offroad)...knock on wood.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EO17L02?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

As for the carrier, the JT seems to be the "go to" bang for the buck carrier since it actually does fit the Superlite sprockets. So it has all the convenience and access to the easy to acquire superlite sprockets. Sucks you were missing parts with your JT piece. My carrier was finished off nicely. Here is my actual piece(top) next to Superlite (bottom). It was a shame to cover it with the hub carrier cover.
 

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I went with this chain breaker/rivet tool and the supplied rivet master link. There are many reviews and videos about this specific tool, half good and half bad. The bad all talk about how it difficult to thread and get alot of pressure. That all points to threads that arent cleaned up and lack of grease. I wire wheeled the threads and used some grease on the threads of the tool as well as the points the touch the links and it worked flawlessly. Very good product for the price after you do a couple things to make it work the way it is supposed to(especially since it will only be used a hand full of times in its life or before i lose it). It allows you to put the pressure on the links to load the plates then activate the riveting pin which is really nice. Those screw on master links seem weak imo. They also look odd and out of place imo. Not that they are inferior but if the goal is "bling" then a mismatched master link doesnt really foot the bill with it being out in the open. I believe those are also not ment to be reused numerous times. If I'm not mistaken, dont they snap off a section of it once it is locked down? If we are replacing every o ring and lock washer then we surely wont be reusing a non-servicable master link given the severity if it were to fail, right?

I may be lucky but in my 30+ years of riding I have never broke a chain or needed to field modulate one to get me home(on road or offroad)...knock on wood.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EO17L02?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

As for the carrier, the JT seems to be the "go to" bang for the buck carrier since it actually does fit the Superlite sprockets. So it has all the convenience and access to the easy to acquire superlite sprockets. Sucks you were missing parts with your JT piece. My carrier was finished off nicely. Here is my actual piece(top) next to Superlite (bottom). It was a shame to cover it with the hub carrier cover.

It's a good chain breaker. People mis-use stuff and then blame the stuff. Grease and easy steady pressure....

The screw link is fine - yes you can't use re-use it, but who would do that? Maybe mis-read my post. Don't know about bling - just wanted to replace the chain - but my eyes don't see the link. It's fine. Didn't want to risk a bad rivet - hard to spot and would be weak.

I hear you on covering the carrier - LOL - kind of a shame as it's a nice piece of metal.
 
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I understand now. I originally thought you were referring to unscrewing the master link and adding/replacing links while out and about. Now I see you were referring to bringing a few extra screw links with you 'just in case'. I did misunderstand.