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Correct. Plus a dab where there is a seam between case halves or covers.

I needed to tap TPS, RPM, Throttle grip, and Throttle plate positions for tuning purposes. I also despise posi-tap connectors so what I did was carefully pull each wire out, slice back half of the insulation, and solder a small wire parallel to it, then put heatshrink over the joint. Solder is...

I had popped a couple wires out to tap them for RPM and TPS voltage pickups in a professional way :D

I am surprised you aren't getting along with the T7. That motor is a real gem. Have you put a pipe on it to uncork it and hear its glorious symphony a bit more?

Wow I used to get at least 40 on my hyper. I think the worst tank was high 30's. You must really grip it and rip it!

Probably running too rich

Same thing happened on mine but a crack, not the heat shield mounts. I would absolutely keep the heat shield in place or risk melting a lot of plastic stuff.

What about in the radiator itself? The reservoir can be full and radiator not bled properly. Could be stuck thermostat - did they replace it? It should cycle between 210-217 and never exceed 220 as you know, something definitely not right.

Is the coolant full?

A lot of the reviewers prefer the 950 over the 1260. It does weigh a bit less, but mostly the engine feels more exciting and fun to ride compared to the big 1260 which just has endless power.

I would STRONGLY consider a Multi 950 over a Hyper for the added wind protection alone.

The adjusters will do a little bit but considering the graph it is definitely a performance oriented tune.

That dynograph tells me it will be a rather stiff feeling shock.

Nothing really. It was a weird unconventional design that was both harsh and soft at the same time.

Don't be afraid to turn your adjusters. The whole thing about damaging them is from turning them tightly once they hit the end point and stripping out the tiny little mechanism. The only think you want to be careful of when turning your adjusters is to not dial in too much rebound damping...

Weird. The driver could have failed. Depending on how the LEDs are wired, if 1 failed the rest would stop working. I would reinstall a regular halogen bulb and see if it works.

Yep Just make sure to get a zinc plated one

I would spread it out on a paper towel to see what it looks like. It could just be steel clutch plate material and it has such a strong magnet it builds up these big looking fuzzy things.

I think they are just M10x1 threads or something? it's kind of a weird fine thread. You can just stick a short bolt in there.

I did a lot of research and settled on the zeitronix ZT2 with a pushbutton datalogger. It ran me about $400 with Bosch LSU4.2. It requires you to tap RPM and TPS wires and wire it to a relay so it turns on when the bike turns on to prevent thermal shock. I haven't used it so I have been thinking...