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You say auxiliary lights, but some good DRLs might make a difference. Look at the thread entitled "I like the urban map etc" and you may see my setup with COB DRLs mounted on the radiator shrouds. Neat and effective IMO!

Hi Alan, Sorry, nothing more to add at this stage. The bikes are really only art objects to be admired at the moment until the weather improves and the roads are clear of mud and/or salt. Doesn't stop me fantasising about newer models though; I'm wondering if a Duke Scrambler 1100 might suit me...

Sorry, none to spare and I apologise for the sarcasm!

How can you mess-up the simple rewiring of those coils? Do you have a problem with changing light-bulbs too? ;)

Dur, why didn't I see/realise that? :rolleyes:

I'm not up to speed on any of this technical stuff but would only respectfully point out that plenty of us have never had evap systems on our Ducatis from new, at least in the UK.

Since the ball-joint surfaces are quite slippery, I'd expect the 601 will give way easily enough but still add some stiction, which is all we need to hold the mirror in place against wind pressure and vibration. Time and riding will tell...

OK, so I've flooded the outside of the mirror ball-joint with Loctite 601 Retaining Compound and worked the ball-joint to get the fluid to coat the surfaces. It sets anaerobically, by the way. No sign at all of degradation of the plastic, so I wonder if others used cyano-acrylate superglue which...

I'll have to try a drop of Loctite on the plastic and see. Only problem with teflon tape is I assume you'd need to actually get it into the ball-joint. Just winding it around the outside wouldn't help much if at all, though if some jammed into the gap it might work.

I guess you mean the heads, rather than the stems? I have one that often shifts but haven't worked out any way to tighten it. My only thought is to try and infuse some Loctite 601 into the ball-joint but I doubt it would last even if it worked.

Why wasn't the faulty gear-select drum included?

Welcome SR. You'll have fun on your new machine! Hopefully it's new enough to not need a lot of the info here as regards the earlier iterations of the 4-valve motors but they all give a very lively ride! Cheers, Nick in Norfolk

Welcome, and I applaud the excellent accommodation!:D

Hi Alan, Thanks for that, and my thoughts exactly. If, when Spring arrives and my HS is back on the road, it starts to show any weakness, I'll look into the possibilities. If the original is a Yuasa, it won't surprise me it has lasted. I had a Honda NTV 650 with a Yuasa that did twice as long!

OK, I've just looked at the BP website and it specifically states that the 821 HS only has the one temperature sensor out front so my comment above is not relevant.

Do you suppose that the front sensor of the HS and HM also doesn't influence the ECU but only the dash readout? This would explain the less-than-dramatic results of putting a Booster Plug on my bike.

My battery charger is telling me the battery of my 2013 821 is nearing replacement time and I suspect it is the original. Looking online, I note that MotoBatt versions, which have done well for me on other bikes, are listed as 12AH or 14AH. Any advice on whether both will fit? I'm not...

Sounds just like a new version of the Booster Plug, telling the motor the air temperature is lower than it really is? The BP works for some bikes/people but not all.

I can't get over the design of so many (Ducati) bikes with next-to-no front mudguard. All that precious motor, not to mention radiators, to get covered in sh-one-t! At least the 'Strada has a decent mudguard to which one can add a CF extender. Of course, all Italian roads are pristine and it...

I'd suspect a faulty starter motor.