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Forgot to mention, since you said the shop "inspected" the sprag and thought it was OK, ask them what exactly they did. If all they did was remove the cover and try spinning the flywheel back and fortyh, that's useless. They need to actually disassemble the sprag from the flywheel to check the...

If your starter is making a "whirring" noise instead of (or between) cranking, that's the typical sound of a bad sprag/one-way clutch. It works on friction, and the cold overnight temps caused enough contraction in all the parts to reduce contact between the starter gear, the crank gear, and the...

Is there a 950 buyer's guide similar to the sticky 821/939 guide? I used to own a '15 821 Hyperstrada and loved it. I did all my research on the potential issues and figured the '15 model year was the safest and I had absolutely no problems that weren't caused by someone else. That said, I have...

Check that the shift linkage/rod is as close to 90 degrees as possible, or compare to the stock angle if the problem goes away after reinstalling the stock shifter.

Sound exactly like what happened to mine. Was a loose battery terminal. See my thread: https://hyperstrada.com/t/still-having-surging-issues-after-looking-at-everything-else-check-your-battery.4684/

When you had this problem, did it always start, idle, and run normally when the engine was cold, and only act up when the engine was hot (like after a short stop)? Did you eventually fix this?

Maybe a dumb question, but since the CAN filters protect the dash, can't we just install filters to the ECU also? But I guess the plug and play solution sounds like Eldor coils off another Ducati.

Before you go worrying about the worst case scenario, start with the basics. Remove the seat and make sure your battery terminals are tight. Then make sure the frame and motor grounds are also tight and no corrosion around them. I spent a week worrying about everything said on here, only to find...

Can't seem to edit the original post to add the following: - Includes both original keys and key code tag, as well as owner's manual. - I can change the belts, oil, filters, plugs at no charge if desired. - Delivery within Ontario can be negotiated.

That’s from my 998 that I had temporarily mounted to see what it would look like. Sorry, it’s not for sale. The bike includes the original black rear wheel.

2015 Hyperstrada - up to date on all TSB's and recalls. In mint, all-original condition. About 30,000 km's, and due for Desmo service, but includes all OEM parts: - timing belts - oil filter - air filter - NGK spark plugs - Shell Ultra 4T 15w50 oil New front tire...

Forgot to update. I was reinstalling the stock windshield in preparation for selling it, and re-seated the dash connector, which seems to have fixed it. Been fine for a couple thousand km's so far. Phew!

Can the timing belt covers be removed without removing the gas tank? I've heard of some people finding their belts to be out of spec in as little as 5000 miles, or less than 1/3 the way to the next belt service. Would be nice to check and re-tension them between changes like we used to do on...

Problem is, I was thinking of selling the Hyper. So do I spend $1000 for a new dash to get the going resale rate, or just list it as-is for $1000 less and hope buyers don't get scared away by the backlighting (because there aren't enough things already to worry about on this bike).

Just took it for an hour ride today. Everything works perfectly, but the backlighting isn't coming on. This sucks. I hope I don't need a new dash just for that!

I know the headlight doesn't come on until you start the bike, but is the dash supposed to stay dark or light up with the key on but engine off? All of the indicators (high beam, neutral, oil pressure, etc.) all work, but I was just checking the battery voltage and didn't start the bike. If this...

Nice! Which part number is that set?

I was watching a video on PCV tuning the KTM 690 SMC R, and they mentioned a dongle that plugs into the lambda sensor harness to bypass the OEM closed loop tuning. It's just a couple of resistors, which I guess mimics the correct signal from the O2 to signal "correct" AFR. Shouldn't this work on...

Sounds like you have locked and unlock mixed up. On mine, the key is only removable in the locked position. So if you can't remove the key, it's because it's unlocked. This would also explain why it is easy to remove the bags when you think they're locked.

I noticed nobody mentioned which bike they have, and whether it has been modified. On my completely stock 821, I usually get the fuel light on at around 220 km's, and I once ran it dry to over 310. That day I was doing between 180 and 200 km/h for the last 20 minutes of the tank, so could have...