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Can i use the thottle of supersport for hypermotard 939?

Joined May 2021
39 Posts | 7+
Viet nam
Hi everybody. Look like after trips under heavy rain. My tps gave up. The problem is i cant find a used thottle by wire for my bike. The supersport 950 had diffirent part number i know. Did someone try switch yet,does it work?

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It is very rare that the TPS in these throtlebodies (unlike the old units). I have 2 throtlebodies in pieces sitting in front of me right now and they aren't seperate consumable items. There was a TSB for the throttle tube on a batch of these bikes. That could be your issue. You could also unplug the throttle plug, clean it, look for damage , dialectical grease and reassemble it. Also, there are 3 different system resets the dealer can do. One of them resets does TPS, mileage counter and everything. That might also be your fix
 
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It is very rare that the TPS in these throtlebodies (unlike the old units). I have 2 throtlebodies in pieces sitting in front of me right now and they aren't seperate consumable items. There was a TSB for the throttle tube on a batch of these bikes. That could be your issue. You could also unplug the throttle plug, clean it, look for damage , dialectical grease and reassemble it. Also, there are 3 different system resets the dealer can do. One of them resets does TPS, mileage counter and everything. That might also be your fix
Thank you Tim. After 3 days driving under heavy shower it behave strange. I disassemble the thottle grip already. Look like the magnet in the unit wear out already. I will try to do the reset hope thing will be ok. Too hard to find one used with good condition.


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It is very rare that the TPS in these throtlebodies (unlike the old units). I have 2 throtlebodies in pieces sitting in front of me right now and they aren't seperate consumable items. There was a TSB for the throttle tube on a batch of these bikes. That could be your issue. You could also unplug the throttle plug, clean it, look for damage , dialectical grease and reassemble it. Also, there are 3 different system resets the dealer can do. One of them resets does TPS, mileage counter and everything. That might also be your fix
It feel like you driving around 4000rpm and the engine quit. No respond at thottle at all. But if you quickly go back to lower gear it - the engine will wake up. Sometimes i hold the thottle or try small rev it. It will comeback alive [emoji1787] before i have problem with the rpm automatically come up to 7k rpm then limp mode coming up. If i turn it off an on the problem is gone. Happened once in 200 miles until now. Pretty sure the electric grip is the problem. I soon bring it to dealer to error checking.


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I think we might be talking about 2 different things when referring to TPS. There are 2 TPS , one on each throtlebodie. The grip part is the sending unit and that is the piece that has a technical service bulletin on many of the bikes but a brand new one is under $100 I believe (I bought one chasing down a stumble between 4-5k rpm. Replaced both throtlebodies and many other parts only to find out it was an excessive lean condition that the tuner couldn't manipulate). If you go to Ducati Omaha and into the microfiche you can find the part number and then search it. I think the motard one is under $100 and the strata is a little over $100 but don't quote me on it.Screenshot_20211208-064436_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20211208-064445_Chrome.jpg
 
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I think we might be talking about 2 different things when referring to TPS. There are 2 TPS , one on each throtlebodie. The grip part is the sending unit and that is the piece that has a technical service bulletin on many of the bikes but a brand new one is under $100 I believe (I bought one chasing down a stumble between 4-5k rpm. Replaced both throtlebodies and many other parts only to find out it was an excessive lean condition that the tuner couldn't manipulate). If you go to Ducati Omaha and into the microfiche you can find the part number and then search it. I think the motard one is under $100 and the strata is a little over $100 but don't quote me on it.View attachment 4091View attachment 4092
Wow thank for the head up,i will look for it. I only find it around 200. The only one 100 is 950 in ebay. That is why i asking for is it possible for switching. Did the leaning condition get better now? I find it without oxygen sensors much better than have it [emoji1787]

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I think we might be talking about 2 different things when referring to TPS. There are 2 TPS , one on each throtlebodie. The grip part is the sending unit and that is the piece that has a technical service bulletin on many of the bikes but a brand new one is under $100 I believe (I bought one chasing down a stumble between 4-5k rpm. Replaced both throtlebodies and many other parts only to find out it was an excessive lean condition that the tuner couldn't manipulate). If you go to Ducati Omaha and into the microfiche you can find the part number and then search it. I think the motard one is under $100 and the strata is a little over $100 but don't quote me on it.View attachment 4091View attachment 4092
Yeah i try to find the grip part. It is the problem. Cost 300 bucks brand new [emoji1787] so you tell me good news is the 2 tps will not give in anytime soon,that is good.

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Wow thank for the head up,i will look for it. I only find it around 200. The only one 100 is 950 in ebay. That is why i asking for is it possible for switching. Did the leaning condition get better now? I find it without oxygen sensors much better than have it [emoji1787]

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On the 821/939 the fueling down low is very lean. This causes bucking and popping between 4-5k rpm on most of them. You will see many reviews about poor low rpm fueling for these bikes. Those bikes you can unplug the O2 sensors and it gets better but still there. None of the piggyback tuners can manipulate fueling enough when the motor is running off the O2 sensors giving input(this was explainwd to me in a couple threads as well as Yamen over at Rapidbike.). Yamen over at Rapidbike even suggests not setting the tuner to even try to manipulate the fueling under 5k rpm. The fix that I found sounds like a gimmick/snake oil scam when I read it initially but wow it sure does clean up the low rpm sputter/popping/bucking. The unit is called a "Booster Plug". It doesn't even mess with any of the normal tuning parts. It just messes with the ambient temperature sensor. It makes the bike think it's 30° colder. Since the bike thinks it's colder it adds more fuel where I need it. I also run the tuner for mid and high rpm against the tuner's recommendations.
Some here have found running issues to be a connection at the fuse block on the left under the fairing. Others found O2 sensors to be bad. When you describe the part where you give little revs to keep it alive, did you remove the EVAP canister? Two other things that come to mind that could cause your issue. The clutch lever switch. If it's acting up the bike might think it's in neutral and not let it rev last a certain rpm or the kickstand switch.
 
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On the 821/939 the fueling down low is very lean. This causes bucking and popping between 4-5k rpm on most of them. You will see many reviews about poor low rpm fueling for these bikes. Those bikes you can unplug the O2 sensors and it gets better but still there. None of the piggyback tuners can manipulate fueling enough when the motor is running off the O2 sensors giving input(this was explainwd to me in a couple threads as well as Yamen over at Rapidbike.). Yamen over at Rapidbike even suggests not setting the tuner to even try to manipulate the fueling under 5k rpm. The fix that I found sounds like a gimmick/snake oil scam when I read it initially but wow it sure does clean up the low rpm sputter/popping/bucking. The unit is called a "Booster Plug". It doesn't even mess with any of the normal tuning parts. It just messes with the ambient temperature sensor. It makes the bike think it's 30° colder. Since the bike thinks it's colder it adds more fuel where I need it. I also run the tuner for mid and high rpm against the tuner's recommendations.
Some here have found running issues to be a connection at the fuse block on the left under the fairing. Others found O2 sensors to be bad. When you describe the part where you give little revs to keep it alive, did you remove the EVAP canister? Two other things that come to mind that could cause your issue. The clutch lever switch. If it's acting up the bike might think it's in neutral and not let it rev last a certain rpm or the kickstand switch.
I experienced the clutch sensor already. If broken apart when my bike fall to the side. Now i am with new clutch lever. Still can start the bike in gear and not getting rev limiter at 8k rpm. The charcoal canister i remove already. It cause no problem. But i want a cleaner look. I remove a whole system of it. Only complaint is under hard braking the fuel spill in the road if the gas tank almost full. I will get a diagnose before i change things.

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On the 821/939 the fueling down low is very lean. This causes bucking and popping between 4-5k rpm on most of them. You will see many reviews about poor low rpm fueling for these bikes. Those bikes you can unplug the O2 sensors and it gets better but still there. None of the piggyback tuners can manipulate fueling enough when the motor is running off the O2 sensors giving input(this was explainwd to me in a couple threads as well as Yamen over at Rapidbike.). Yamen over at Rapidbike even suggests not setting the tuner to even try to manipulate the fueling under 5k rpm. The fix that I found sounds like a gimmick/snake oil scam when I read it initially but wow it sure does clean up the low rpm sputter/popping/bucking. The unit is called a "Booster Plug". It doesn't even mess with any of the normal tuning parts. It just messes with the ambient temperature sensor. It makes the bike think it's 30° colder. Since the bike thinks it's colder it adds more fuel where I need it. I also run the tuner for mid and high rpm against the tuner's recommendations.
Some here have found running issues to be a connection at the fuse block on the left under the fairing. Others found O2 sensors to be bad. When you describe the part where you give little revs to keep it alive, did you remove the EVAP canister? Two other things that come to mind that could cause your issue. The clutch lever switch. If it's acting up the bike might think it's in neutral and not let it rev last a certain rpm or the kickstand switch.
Booster plug make more senses in theory. I only want to make it more rideable at low rpm. So the boosterplug is one to go?

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I don't think the magnet in the throttle can "wear out". The pickup sensor could malfunction, but I would try dealer TPS resets first. My limp mode and stalling issue on my '13 was related to software.
 
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I don't think the magnet in the throttle can "wear out". The pickup sensor could malfunction, but I would try dealer TPS resets first. My limp mode and stalling issue on my '13 was related to software.
Yeah. It is has a coating magnet. And the movement of grip wear the coating. Because i take it part so i see only this is abnormal. You are right,maybe it beyond my understand already. I should go to dealer soon

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