i noticed the forks stick up quite a bit above the triple tree. where can i find the stock setting for this so i can double check all is good? and has anyone decreased or increased that measurement and results?
thanks
thanks
Hi cosmick..
I noticed the same visually, also felt the bike steered quick enough that moving the forks down (which decreases trail and generally makes a bike steer a bit slower, all else being equal) would help cornering clearance for track days. Can't remember the exact dimensions but I can find out if you want. The Hyper has such a stiff responsive chassis that you should be able to feel a 5mm change ( I think I moved mine at least 10mm)
You also might notice that the steering feels a bit vague at slow speed after the change but you will quickly get used to it.
If you try a new setting be careful not to overtighten the triple clamp bolts, especially the lower ones. Cheers!
I noticed the same visually, also felt the bike steered quick enough that moving the forks down (which decreases trail and generally makes a bike steer a bit slower, all else being equal) would help cornering clearance for track days. Can't remember the exact dimensions but I can find out if you want. The Hyper has such a stiff responsive chassis that you should be able to feel a 5mm change ( I think I moved mine at least 10mm)
You also might notice that the steering feels a bit vague at slow speed after the change but you will quickly get used to it.
If you try a new setting be careful not to overtighten the triple clamp bolts, especially the lower ones. Cheers!
1. are you able to tell me how much in MM stands above the triple tree?
2. torque settings when i resemble?
thanks so much
2. torque settings when i resemble?
thanks so much
The shop I purchased the bike from is closed today, I have to call them tomorrow on another matter and I'll see if I can get some numbers...
Joined Nov 2013
1K Posts | 1+
Inland SoCal
Moving the forks down (raising the front of the bike) increases trail, as well as rake angle. But either will indeed slow down the steering response. I just checked mine, and I have 4mm of the forks' flat mounting area above the top clamp. I've had the forks off, but they are close to where they were when delivered.
Other owners have added steering dampers, I've never felt the need. However, my RT setup tends to ride a bit higher than the original one. The springs are 37% stiffer than the wimpy things Ducati put in there!
Joined Nov 2013
1K Posts | 1+
Inland SoCal
And here are the torque specs, from the Service Manual:
Fastener retaining steering head to fork (right+left) M6x1 10* N-M, GREASE B
(Sequence 1-2-1)
Fastener retaining bottom yoke to fork (right+left) 16* N-M, GREASE B
(Sequence 1-2-1)
The * indicates that the value must be within +/- 5%.
Fastener retaining steering head to fork (right+left) M6x1 10* N-M, GREASE B
(Sequence 1-2-1)
Fastener retaining bottom yoke to fork (right+left) 16* N-M, GREASE B
(Sequence 1-2-1)
The * indicates that the value must be within +/- 5%.
so the image i posted that measures 10mm, yours is 4mm? wow, huge difference. just seems like WAY too much fork above triple tree with my current setup. thanks for posting
Joined Dec 2013
92 Posts | 0+
Minnesota, USA
It seems - based on this and the sticker on my bike, ducati has a sponsor arrangement with shell. For some critical moving application hi-tech grease might be good - for a bolt, I'm thinking any lithium or bearing grease you have laying around.
Hi Guys
You are right Zippy, my bad, moving the forks down increases trail. You seem to have your bike set up more for hard sport riding; I tend to keep on chasing the elusive middle ground looking for suspension settings that are more comfy on the bumpy back roads but don't need a lot of messing with for our tight little local track. My shop says the stock position for the forks is 250mm from the top of the BOTTOM TT to the top of the fork cap. My bike as delivered had the forks even higher than that; I am now at 11mm above the top TT but not real happy, Ducati should have made these bikes a bit higher. Do you feel you have adequate cornering clearance at 4m with the stiffer springs? I find I can drag a footpeg at will around highway off ramps with the stock Scorpions and have a real problem on the track and in street corners with a dip close to the apex. I also had to go to folding tip levers.
With regards to the torque specs for the TT bolts my shop gave me the same numbers, I'm not sure if they are right. Recent bikes I've owned have a lower torque spec for the lower bolts (Triumph 675, KTM 690, Honda CRF) so I am suspicious of those numbers, especially with grease lubricated threads. You get good feel with a standard length Snap On 1/4 inch drive ratchet, forget the specs!
As an aside, my KTM 690 Enduro R had the best middle ground stock suspension ever, it did not really need any fiddling with no matter where or how I rode it. Cheers, ride safe!
You are right Zippy, my bad, moving the forks down increases trail. You seem to have your bike set up more for hard sport riding; I tend to keep on chasing the elusive middle ground looking for suspension settings that are more comfy on the bumpy back roads but don't need a lot of messing with for our tight little local track. My shop says the stock position for the forks is 250mm from the top of the BOTTOM TT to the top of the fork cap. My bike as delivered had the forks even higher than that; I am now at 11mm above the top TT but not real happy, Ducati should have made these bikes a bit higher. Do you feel you have adequate cornering clearance at 4m with the stiffer springs? I find I can drag a footpeg at will around highway off ramps with the stock Scorpions and have a real problem on the track and in street corners with a dip close to the apex. I also had to go to folding tip levers.
With regards to the torque specs for the TT bolts my shop gave me the same numbers, I'm not sure if they are right. Recent bikes I've owned have a lower torque spec for the lower bolts (Triumph 675, KTM 690, Honda CRF) so I am suspicious of those numbers, especially with grease lubricated threads. You get good feel with a standard length Snap On 1/4 inch drive ratchet, forget the specs!
As an aside, my KTM 690 Enduro R had the best middle ground stock suspension ever, it did not really need any fiddling with no matter where or how I rode it. Cheers, ride safe!
How To Pick The Best Weight Reduction Products - 5 Tips
The best way to ensure that you are currently obtaining the appropriate program that works specially that will help you realize your aims that are Weight Loss will be to look for people you know who have reached precisely the same Weight Loss motivation you need to attain. The next step is simple. Only do the same they're doing. Follow their program that is precise.
http://cleansefit1800advice.com/apex-vitality-cleanse/
The best way to ensure that you are currently obtaining the appropriate program that works specially that will help you realize your aims that are Weight Loss will be to look for people you know who have reached precisely the same Weight Loss motivation you need to attain. The next step is simple. Only do the same they're doing. Follow their program that is precise.
http://cleansefit1800advice.com/apex-vitality-cleanse/
Joined Nov 2013
1K Posts | 1+
Inland SoCal
I was using a different reference point, sorry. Mine is not more than a mm different when measured per your pic. It's pretty close to where it was when the bike was delivered.
Joined Nov 2013
1K Posts | 1+
Inland SoCal
I weigh only 155 "dry" and do not quite get to the edge of my Q3s - there's a quarter inch of chicken strip. I keep the rear preload at zero when solo. Still, I've dragged a toe in a mid-corner dip many times. But I blame that on sloppy foot position. If I were to put it on the track I'd just pull the forks down that last available 4mm and increase the rear preload. And not ride duck-footed, like Mr. Bayliss...BTW get well soon, Troy.
As for those torque specs, they are straight out of the official Ducati service manual. But I agree that an experienced hand on a plain ratchet can get close and tight enough. I prefer the older Snap-on model that is rounded and only 6" long. The short handle tends to prevent over-tightening, I've had my first one since 1972.
PS my forks got a lot better over the bumps after Racetech got done with them.
i just got a quote from race tech to redo front and rear suspension. anyone do this? is it worth it?
Similar threads
