Hi all, new to the forum and looking for help.
Anyone remove the front wheel bearings and if so any tips, tricks or special tool used?
Anyone remove the front wheel bearings and if so any tips, tricks or special tool used?
Front wheel bearings removal
- Thread starter Chopperstu
- Start date
Joined Apr 2013
804 Posts | 22+
uk
I removed mine at 18000 mile. Re greased and refitted as they where fine. Not the easiest bearings to remove. There is a notch you can see in the bearing spacer to where you can tap one out, I used a long pad punch. Once you get one out and the spacer between them is removed the next is easier
Thanks Mentalist, too right they're not easy!
Think i need something abit longer and thinner because the punch's im using atm just keep slipping out of that notch! Cheers though m8
Think i need something abit longer and thinner because the punch's im using atm just keep slipping out of that notch! Cheers though m8
I just did mine and I used a combination of tools. The spacer does not move much unlike some other bike, so getting a purchase on the race is difficult.
I think my bearing were frozen in place. So trying to use the split collet driver (25mm) did not move it. Very carefully I moved the spacer a fraction and got some purchase with an oval bearing punch. This with some PB Blaster, moved it a hair. Then the collet method worked. The second bearing was straight forwad as the spacer was out of the way.
I used a combo of the old bearing and the motion pro tool to drive in the new bearings. The old bearing was good for getting the bearing i straight, and the motion pro think was great for driving it home. I froze the new bearings, and put a little grease around the race before driving it.
It's hard to tell when the first bearing is seated because the bearing seat is stepped, so there will always be a visible gap. The second is more straightforward, as the spacer will let you know how far to go -it's tight between the bearings, and held in place by the wheel casting (that's the reason for step in the bearing seat).
Hope this helps. The whole kit from all balls was $23 delivered - can't see taking the risk of reusing a bearing that was just beaton on (via the unsupported inner race) to remove. The outer diameter is 47mm, the inner is 25mm if that helps.
I think my bearing were frozen in place. So trying to use the split collet driver (25mm) did not move it. Very carefully I moved the spacer a fraction and got some purchase with an oval bearing punch. This with some PB Blaster, moved it a hair. Then the collet method worked. The second bearing was straight forwad as the spacer was out of the way.
I used a combo of the old bearing and the motion pro tool to drive in the new bearings. The old bearing was good for getting the bearing i straight, and the motion pro think was great for driving it home. I froze the new bearings, and put a little grease around the race before driving it.
It's hard to tell when the first bearing is seated because the bearing seat is stepped, so there will always be a visible gap. The second is more straightforward, as the spacer will let you know how far to go -it's tight between the bearings, and held in place by the wheel casting (that's the reason for step in the bearing seat).
Hope this helps. The whole kit from all balls was $23 delivered - can't see taking the risk of reusing a bearing that was just beaton on (via the unsupported inner race) to remove. The outer diameter is 47mm, the inner is 25mm if that helps.
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