How the heck do I change the headlight?

philthymike · Aug 18, 2017

I looked. I scratched my head. I looked some more. I scratched my head some more. Then I found the exploded diagrams in the spare parts catalog - I'm still scratching my head.

Any pointers are greatly appreciated!

RSL · Aug 18, 2017

From the back side. Easy to do. Simply pull the front housing off.

flvraptor · Aug 18, 2017

See if this helps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiwyfaB2J04

philthymike · Aug 19, 2017

Ahhhh sooo...
Thanks!

philthymike · Aug 19, 2017

headlight changed!
Next on my list oil + oil filter
Then air filter
Then timing belts!

monocog007 · Aug 19, 2017

philthymike said:
headlight changed!
Next on my list oil + oil filter
Then air filter
Then timing belts!

All easy enough to do! Let me/us know if I can help at any point.

philthymike · Aug 25, 2017

monocog007 said:
All easy enough to do! Let me/us know if I can help at any point.

Thanks, I'm sure I'll need help. Plenty in fact.
Status on the parts: en-route from Italy delivery unknown
sweet!

After I get this basic maintenance squared away I'll be moving on to tackle the nasty no-feel grabby clutch of doom and considering options for smoother throttle response. And with the recent rash of cagers trying to merge into the lane I'm occupying I'm thinking about going loud. So a slip on with removable baffles.

I rode my fiance's V-star 650 to work last week and the obnoxious Vance & Hines exhaust on it really kept the cagers at a nice comfortable distance. Nobody rode my *** or drive next to me where I can get into their blind spot. It was liberating.
So call me what you want, being heard works on these roads.

also, call me a ***** but I finally did the Ton going into work today. I think my adjustment to the hyper is complete. I still have days where she feels totally alien. But more than not I feel the alien in me riding her. We're finally clicking.
And we totally destroy route 476 daily

philthymike · Sep 5, 2017

My parts finally shipped from Omaha! I had to have them change to 10W40 from 10W15 though because they claimed the flooding in Texas prevented them from obtaining it.

monocog007 · Sep 7, 2017

philthymike said:
My parts finally shipped from Omaha! I had to have them change to 10W40 from 10W15 though because they claimed the flooding in Texas prevented them from obtaining it.

10w50?

The 10w40 should be just fine, that's what I've been running in mine. Blackstone labs says my oil specs are in check after 3000k miles.

appliance821 · Sep 7, 2017

philthymike said:
My parts finally shipped from Omaha! I had to have them change to 10W40 from 10W15 though because they claimed the flooding in Texas prevented them from obtaining it.

The US has conveniently placed major refineries right on a flood plain. 2 have been incapacitated. They're there for easy exporting - which when you think of how much of our military lives and resources are involved in protecting foreign oil supplies, is pretty strange.

philthymike · Sep 9, 2017

The parts were on my doorstep when I got home yesterday. I'm now looking at vids and reading tutorials for changing the air filter. WTF? Why does half the bike half to come apart for this? Not a very good design to make accessing a consumable engine component so difficult.
Whatever. Any tips and tricks I should know about not covered in threads here already?

They have half of my county ripped up installing a new pipeline. They've managed to contaminate the Chester Creek with this because they are running the pipeline through the park for said creek. Way to go!
Luckily my township voted against it coming through here where I live. But the rain is washing that silicate crap everywhere and it's flowing down into my neighborhood too. Our rain puddles look like milk. In ten years they'll announce some horrifying illness or birth defects associated with the stuff I'm sure.

Ok let me get outside and examine the job I need to do on this bike and make sure I have all the tools I need.

bayotte · Sep 9, 2017

How many miles on your bike? Air filter needs changing quite rarely on this bike

philthymike · Sep 9, 2017

The bike just hit 8K. It had 5700+ when I bought it in March so its gotten a fair amount of riding and some of that has been off-road. The last few off-road rides were pretty dusty ones and lately the engine seems to be running rough and throttle response has gotten more poor than usual.
Plus I'm planning a camping trip for later in the month up in the mountains so I'll be riding off-road some more soon and I want the bike running good for that trip.

bayotte · Sep 9, 2017

Your call, but I would say that 8k is about 10k premature for air filter change.

philthymike · Sep 9, 2017

How the F**K do I get those last two screws on the handlebar side of the air box cover?
I can't even fit the socket alone in there! Do I need to take out the voltage regulator?
It doesn't even look to be enough room without that there.

appliance821 · Sep 9, 2017

philthymike said:
How the F**K do I get those last two screws on the handlebar side of the air box cover?
I can't even fit the socket alone in there! Do I need to take out the voltage regulator?
It doesn't even look to be enough room without that there.

Oh yes - aren't they wonderful. The one on the left is actually fairly accessible - I think I wedged a low profile ratchet in there (one of those small things that have a 1/4" notch - they cost about $8.00 (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A...78751&sr=8-2&keywords=low+profile+1/4+ratchet).

The other side has an additional metal tang that really blocks most things. I moved all the cabling etc that's around that tang, out of the way As I remember I managed to get a really long 1/4" tang torks bit mated to my low profile handle (or a vice grip -can't remember) - wedged in the socket. By putting a lot of pressure on it I could turn it a tiny bit at a time until loosened. The length of the driver - 6" +- helped lessen the angle somewhat so it would bite.

When reassembling I used a different screw in that location because it strips out a little. By rotating the screws, and changing the filter every 20K miles - I'll be OK for a long long time.

It is absurd.

kuksul08 · Sep 9, 2017

philthymike said:
How the F**K do I get those last two screws on the handlebar side of the air box cover?
I can't even fit the socket alone in there! Do I need to take out the voltage regulator?
It doesn't even look to be enough room without that there.

I think I did remove the regulator, but you don't need to.

I used a 1/4" torx bit and a 1/4" box end wrench on the shank of the bit, turning 1/4 turn at a time.... Really annoying. I recall figuring out an easier way with some extensions and u-joints.

philthymike · Sep 9, 2017

appliance821 said:
Oh yes - aren't they wonderful. The one on the left is actually fairly accessible - I think I wedged a low profile ratchet in there (one of those small things that have a 1/4" notch - they cost about $8.00 (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A...78751&sr=8-2&keywords=low+profile+1/4+ratchet).

The other side has an additional metal tang that really blocks most things. I moved all the cabling etc that's around that tang, out of the way As I remember I managed to get a really long 1/4" tang torks bit mated to my low profile handle (or a vice grip -can't remember) - wedged in the socket. By putting a lot of pressure on it I could turn it a tiny bit at a time until loosened. The length of the driver - 6" +- helped lessen the angle somewhat so it would bite.

When reassembling I used a different screw in that location because it strips out a little. By rotating the screws, and changing the filter every 20K miles - I'll be OK for a long long time.

It is absurd.

i went to the hardware store and got a regular screwdriver with a star drive type head. I could get the left side one off with that. The angle was too great on the right side. Then I discovered the regulator just slides out of its mounts. Back to the 1/4" socket and I had it. So what if I have a 5 piece torx screwdriver set now, it might come in handy one day. useful for when a socket isn't practical I guess.

philthymike · Sep 9, 2017

kuksul08 said:
I think I did remove the regulator, but you don't need to.

I used a 1/4" torx bit and a 1/4" box end wrench on the shank of the bit, turning 1/4 turn at a time.... Really annoying. I recall figuring out an easier way with some extensions and u-joints.

I tried without removing the regulator but the right side screw was still impossible to reach. Luckily the regulator just slides right out! Easy peasy Japanesey.

So it's all back together now. What a journey. Then when I moved the bike I discovered a large thick fender washer on the ground. It's aluminum. I don't remember seeing it anywhere while disassembling. Where the heck did it come from?

Anyways the bike runs good. Throttle response is much improved both at low speeds and high. I can blip it without it choking. Engine not as rough but still a little bit. I will change the oil and filter next. That ought to help.

The old filter was brown. And it had a crapload of loose stuff in there including a bee. As I feared that silicate crap from the new pipeline was all in there as well as coal dust from my ride in the mountains. That crap is highly abrasive too.
I'm sure the silicate doesn't do an engine any good either.

When I went out to the hardware store I rode the little Suzuki Savage and guess what? It's gonna need a starter soon. Hell of a time getting it to start on the way home.
I've got my hands full with bike issues now.

kuksul08 · Sep 9, 2017

philthymike said:
I tried without removing the regulator but the right side screw was still impossible to reach. Luckily the regulator just slides right out! Easy peasy Japanesey.

So it's all back together now. What a journey. Then when I moved the bike I discovered a large thick fender washer on the ground. It's aluminum. I don't remember seeing it anywhere while disassembling. Where the heck did it come from?

Anyways the bike runs good. Throttle response is much improved both at low speeds and high. I can blip it without it choking. Engine not as rough but still a little bit. I will change the oil and filter next. That ought to help.

The old filter was brown. And it had a crapload of loose stuff in there including a bee. As I feared that silicate crap from the new pipeline was all in there as well as coal dust from my ride in the mountains. That crap is highly abrasive too.
I'm sure the silicate doesn't do an engine any good either.

Washer goes underneath the fuel tank under that big shoulder bolt on the bottom.

How the heck do I change the headlight?

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