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Little bit of Zinc plating during lockdown

Joined Apr 2013
804 Posts | 22+
uk
Had a new zinc plating kit sitting in the garage now for around eight years unused, I've been cleaning the bikes and finding jobs to do during lockdown, I'd noticed that the rear spindle bolts, caliper bolts and a few other fixing's where looking a little grey and tired. So out with the zinc plating kit, the pictures don't do them justice, they where just out the passivate and where drying, once dried they have polished up like brand new and look fantastic on the bike.
Done a few more bits too, like the tin cover over the exhaust flapper valve etc.
Going to do some bit from my 916 foggy rep, they are finished with the gold/yellow passivate
 

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Nice! I've been wrestling with corroding fasteners - mostly trying to replace at the moment. New flapper pipe and motor, trying to get the front header nuts off. I ride in all weather so it's tough and I'll have to be more vigilant. Is there a high temp grease or protector you can put on these things to preserve them? The old flapper spring spindle looks like a boat anchor on a 18th century wreckage - LOL.
 
Careful what you plate. Look up "hydrogen embrittlement". Depending on the zinc plate process, it can weaken high strength steels. Any bolt marked 12.9, certain structural parts on the bike, you should be careful. The solution is to bake the parts within 1hr of plating for some length of time at a pretty high temp.

I've heard you can actually wax them to preserve the finish. Regular old car wax.

See part 6.5 here: http://www.galvanizeit.com/uploads/ASTM-B-633-yr-13.pdf

Here's some I did. All these fasteners were not high strength steel. Mostly grade 8.8 or similar.
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Those look deliciously shiny!

Does anyone have a good kit for black oxide coating? my handlebar/control screws and bolts are looking a little worse for wear...
 
Had to clean them up, depending on how bad they are, cleaning is essential part of the process. Wire brush the rust/dirt off, ultra sonic bath, de-greaser (soda crystals) ( reverse electrolysis for rust removal is superb).
I used Gateros Plating Ltd for my kit.
 
I did it with a DIY process. You mix vinegar, epsom salt, some other common stuff in a bucket.

The process is simple. There are three 5-gallon buckets:
1. Acid etch bath - 2 gallons distilled water, 1 gallon muriatic acid
2. Rinse bath - 4 gallons water
3. Electrolyte bath - 4 gallons vinegar, 400grams Zinc Sulfate, 2 cups epsom salt, and a strip of zinc.

Process:
1. Clean and degrease parts
2. Media blast (if available)
3. Wire wheel to polish/smooth surfaces
4. Thorough degrease (gloves on from this point)
5. Dip in acid for 5-10 seconds, or longer if you want to strip all previous zinc plating.
6. Rinse in water.
7. Attach parts to negative lead on power supply, (and positive lead to zinc material in bath)
8. Set power supply to 2.0V constant voltage, current will vary depending on size.
9. Wait 10 minutes. Check coating, reposition if necessary.
10. Wait 10 more minutes. Check coating, reposition if necessary... There is actual science that could be applied here, but I pretty much went by 'feel' and just experimentation.
11. Once coated, rinse with water, wire wheel gently, and polish.
 
thanks for that writeup, kuksul! how do you safely dispose of the acid etch bath?

This honestly makes some of those plating kits seem a little silly :)
 
I have kept the same setup in 5 gallon buckets for about a year, no intention of dumping it.
When the time comes, I think a few cups of baking soda to neutralize it and dump it down the drain.
 
I did it with a DIY process. You mix vinegar, epsom salt, some other common stuff in a bucket.

The process is simple. There are three 5-gallon buckets:
1. Acid etch bath - 2 gallons distilled water, 1 gallon muriatic acid
2. Rinse bath - 4 gallons water
3. Electrolyte bath - 4 gallons vinegar, 400grams Zinc Sulfate, 2 cups epsom salt, and a strip of zinc.

Process:
1. Clean and degrease parts
2. Media blast (if available)
3. Wire wheel to polish/smooth surfaces
4. Thorough degrease (gloves on from this point)
5. Dip in acid for 5-10 seconds, or longer if you want to strip all previous zinc plating.
6. Rinse in water.
7. Attach parts to negative lead on power supply, (and positive lead to zinc material in bath)
8. Set power supply to 2.0V constant voltage, current will vary depending on size.
9. Wait 10 minutes. Check coating, reposition if necessary.
10. Wait 10 more minutes. Check coating, reposition if necessary... There is actual science that could be applied here, but I pretty much went by 'feel' and just experimentation.
11. Once coated, rinse with water, wire wheel gently, and polish.
You should use a clear/blue passivate immediately after the zinc plating to protect it, leave 24 hrs then polish for a longer lasting coating. I have the yellow/gold passivate to refresh some fixings on my 916 and the olive drab for the Yamaha 350.

Could You Just Apply Zinc?
In theory, yes if you wanted to you could just add a layer of Zinc onto your component. The issue is that Zinc in of itself is a very reactive metal and would be susceptible to corrosion in contact with the air and in hot and humid conditions. When Zinc reacts with oxygen it forms Zinc Oxide. When other metals such as Aluminium react with Oxygen this forms a hard and protective oxide layer which is usually desirable, but a Zinc Oxide layer is soft and porous and does nothing to protect the component from corrosion. As such White Rust would form on a component that was purely coated with Zinc.
What Is Passivation?
Passivation is a non-electrolytic process which promotes the build-up of an oxide layer. Now as above Zinc Oxide will not provide corrosion protection. As such the Passivation Process that follows Zinc Plating is a Chromate Conversion and will actually convert the metal surface into a complex mixture of Chromium compounds which will oxidise into a barrier layer. This coupled with the Zinc will provide the desirable attributes of corrosion and wear protection.
 
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Good tip - where do you get that? Is it just a chemical you can dip it in for some amount of time?

Having a hard time finding it online, maybe not using the right terms.
 
Good tip - where do you get that? Is it just a chemical you can dip it in for some amount of time?

Having a hard time finding it online, maybe not using the right terms.

Hi, yes it's just a chemical dip solution, at around 30*C temp. Dipped for approx 20 secs.
If you click the link for where I bought my kit there is some good in-depth tips and hints. Also all the individual chemicals etc to order as req.
Zinc Passivate - Clear/blue is for the shiny stuff after plating.
 

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I ought to give that a try!!!
My plated parts seem to be holding up alright but I bet they could stay shinier with that conversion coating.
 
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