RapidBike Evo Install

Oh! There's a large rubber washer/gasket between the tank and the sub-frame where a single main bolt holds the rear of the tank in place. It will probably fall out when you lift the tank. Don't try and set this before putting the tank in- it will just fall out. You can worm it in from beneath after re-seating the tank.

Cheers found that out today when I pulled the tank. Mine was a thick alloy washer.
Didn't have to move the handlebars though, tank came out quite easy. I removed the two front rubber mounts that locate the tank and also the ecu. The fuel pipe and wiring where disconnected too prior to lifting the tank so the fuel hose just stayed in place. I'll have to take some pics. Fitted the air filter and new plugs, but waiting now for the rapidbike module as it's still in the post.

Done a couple of hundred miles with the rapidbike evo, air fliter and gpr slip on all installed.
It has transformed the bike, there is more power but it is so much a smoother delivery.
The GPR exhaust with flapper delete sounds amazing. The way the engine and throttle responds was worth the ££'s spent, and didn't take too long to fit. Fuel economy I would say is about the same, although it is winter here and I've not been able to give it the full beans yet.
Tick over is rock soild now too, before it would fluctuate a little.
Mainly ridden in touring mode but when in sport mode the front wheel came up so fast the 1st time I opened the throttle in 1st gear I did have a little oh **** moment.
Can't wait for summer....

mentalist said:

Done a couple of hundred miles with the rapidbike evo, air fliter and gpr slip on all installed.
It has transformed the bike, there is more power but it is so much a smoother delivery.
The GPR exhaust with flapper delete sounds amazing. The way the engine and throttle responds was worth the ££'s spent, and didn't take too long to fit. Fuel economy I would say is about the same, although it is winter here and I've not been able to give it the full beans yet.
Tick over is rock soild now too, before it would fluctuate a little.
Mainly ridden in touring mode but when in sport mode the front wheel came up so fast the 1st time I opened the throttle in 1st gear I did have a little oh **** moment.
Can't wait for summer....

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This is exciting news, I'm looking forward to getting one on my bike before the end of the year.

What do you mean by "tick over"?

EDIT: Hah it means idle. silly brits!

by "tick over" I mean on idle sat in neutral, before the idle was a little irratic

I noticed the steady idle the most.

Only thing I'm not sure of is my RapidBike software is constantly updating on my PC, but haven't connected to the module since install. Not sure if you're supposed to periodically update the module. Wouldn't think so if you're using the auto adapt feature.

What method of flapper valve delete did you use?

The unit shouldn't do anything at idle. It is set to make 0 change at 0% throttle opening. Mine has always idled fine so I don't notice any difference.

You shouldn't really need to adjust anything. I plugged mine in a few times to verify it and track the auto adjustment, but haven't applied any changes.

gatdammit said:

I noticed the steady idle the most.

Only thing I'm not sure of is my RapidBike software is constantly updating on my PC, but haven't connected to the module since install. Not sure if you're supposed to periodically update the module. Wouldn't think so if you're using the auto adapt feature.

What method of flapper valve delete did you use?

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I was going to remove it totally, but just went for the quick option of disconnecting the cable.

Dyno run

I really should've done a before amd after. But here's the graph of dyno run today. Only shows 95 bhp but that's on this dyno. Maybe higher on another machine. Torque was good at just under 65 where it should be. I was more interested in the fuel ratio an it does drop off slightly but still healthy. The guy had to strap the rear down as it kept spinning the back wheel, which he said he normally has to do with 150+ bhp.

mentalist said:

I really should've done a before amd after. But here's the graph of dyno run today. Only shows 95 bhp but that's on this dyno. Maybe higher on another machine. Torque was good at just under 65 where it should be. I was more interested in the fuel ratio an it does drop off slightly but still healthy. The guy had to strap the rear down as it kept spinning the back wheel, which he said he normally has to do with 150+ bhp.

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Thanks for posting the dyno. Looks really good. It would be interesting to run a 0 map also, to see what the difference between rapidbike and stock is.

You still have it on stock settings for the map and the auto tune?

mentalist said:

I really should've done a before amd after. But here's the graph of dyno run today. Only shows 95 bhp but that's on this dyno. Maybe higher on another machine. Torque was good at just under 65 where it should be. I was more interested in the fuel ratio an it does drop off slightly but still healthy. The guy had to strap the rear down as it kept spinning the back wheel, which he said he normally has to do with 150+ bhp.

Click to expand...

What setup are you running with this dyno? And has your bike been through the few hundred mile learning curve of the rapidbike autotune?

Yes just the standard rapidbike map and auto tune. Pretty liner curve. That was in sport mode. Should've done a run on touring mode for comparison

A note on tank removal - as observed above, you have to remove the rubber "bumbers" up front that the tank hooks onto. No way to tilt it forward enough to slide out. And after you've diligently removed all the bolts etc.. ( I also removed the ecu, so I could grab the rear of the tank), you might find it won't lift out. The seat latch is blocking it and you have to wedge it by. Once you know that's the problem, it's just a matter of fiddling.

Also, if anyone has the specs on the fuel pump quick release o-ring it would be much appreciated.

On tank removal one more tip

One more tip on tank removal....after reading about this I realized I could avoid the seat latch hang up by removing the panel in which the latch is located. Just involves removing 2 hexhead screws and the whole thing drops out of the way.

cheers
Colin

Alright I installed this yesterday. Took me about 4 hours of actual time. I did fight that fuel pump cover a LOT longer than I thought I should have. The little drain hole in the bottom of it was plugged and there was easily a cup of water with living things in it! So I opened up the drain hole in hopes of displacing the residences. Tank came off without any problem I did remove the panel that the seat release resides in so no issues and I do have Rox bar risers installed years ago so it cleared the bars easily. I did end up removing the tank again this morning because I didn't like the way I routed and tied up all the wiring and this way I can get the seat back on......
It did not want to start, but then I have been having all kinds of starting issues which is why I went in this direction and the exhaust was full of water, stupid rain.
Put about 70 miles on today and it is definitely adapting and improving, I did wheely once inadvertently then went back and verified that is wasn't a fluke. Starting seems better but only time will tell. I will spend some more time on it today and tomorrow and we'll see.

Damn Jer. Just now, huh! Man, that friggin' fuel pump cover. I can actually pull and set it with ease now. The trick with it is making sure the fuel line is snaked correctly. I know this little drain hole you're talking about. At first I thought it was an imperfection or damage from the road. Guess it's there to dump fuel if it leaks.

Well I've got over 100 miles on it now and it definitely runs and idles much better although was hard to start this morning for some reason. Yesterday I rode it 3 different time and it started well after the first one was out of the way.

The bike alway ran good until I moved to sea level and then it never wanted to run right.