PSA - Cracked Header Pipe

This rear cyl head pipe is cr*p. It's one of the biggest complaints for 821 owners here in Brazil (maybe bikes here run a lot hotter). I'd try to weld the heat shield back in place because fuel pump is very close to his pipe. That pipe can get incandescent, so I'd worry about it roasting the parts around.

Good to know, I'll have to check mine. I'm sure 24k and bumpy backroads haven't done it any favors. It definitely runs hot and I've noticed the carbon tip on my Termi pipe is starting to discolor, I've check it a few times during rides and it gets really hot so I suspect the carbon will delaminate eventually.

Same thing happened on mine but a crack, not the heat shield mounts. I would absolutely keep the heat shield in place or risk melting a lot of plastic stuff.

My rear cracked as well. Looks like it started at the weld for the heat shield. I picked up headers from a 939 to replace the rear. Come to find out the O2 sensor between the bikes is in slightly different locations on the rear. I'm still running it thought. Came with the 939 heat shield too. Couple things to prevent this in the future. Make sure the slip fittings are actually slipping. This is why they are on springs. If the 2 headers are locked together and they need to move(they do move theoght heat expansion) thing will find the weakest point and flex there. Another thing to help prevent, make sure you are using using the shoulder bolts on the heat shield. The allows the heat shield itsself the ability to let things move around. As a side note I have seen guys on the V4 groups using the copper high heat antiseize on the slip fittings to make sure everything keeps it's ability to slide.

On the 939, the front header was cracked. Seller didn't know . I mentioned it and he was willing to work with me on the price after I recieved it but I wasn't going to use it anyway so it didn't matter. One other thing to note, while the 939 and 821 have different rear headers the 939 and the 821 have identical front headers.

For the alternative to copper antiseize, I'm not sure. There must be something out there that can be used. If the aluminum antiseize is easier to get I would check the temp rating. That might work also.

That nut you are talking about if very dificult to remove. I have this weird gimmick-ey 'as seen on tv' strip of sockets. The opening is a bunch of small teeth. The claim is that the strip of sockets can remove/install any size and shape but out there. On the other end is a hex head to connect a wrench to. The combination of the socket and wrench is very compact. This is what I use. It's still slow going. Make sure to lube the threads on the studs before removing. You don't want to snap any of the rear studs. I snapped 2 of the front studs and it was a pain. I would have had to drop the engine if it happened to the rear .

The slip joint where between the swingarm and the engine. The pieces where the Y collector and the piece that gos to the head slide together. Not between the exhaust flange and the head, we are taking about where the tubing all slides together and springs hold them in place.

Reusing the gasket between the pipe and the head will be your call. If you pull it out and it isn't flat(still has it's stamped raised section) then i would reuse it. If it's flat then I would get new.