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Rear Suspension Swap

gatdammit

gatdammit

Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
Fellow Tards,

Just purchased an Ohlins AG 1401 (TTX 36) for my 2013 821. No dice on an 821 specific rear suspension swap vid on YouTube. Anyone done this themselves? Looks like general procedures:

1. Support bike via subframe
2. Setup a stop for swingarm/tire (so it doesn't drop to the deck)
3. Remove upper shock mounting bolt
4. Remove lower shock mounting bolt
5. Crack beer
6. Reverse

Doesn't look like I need to pull the tank to get to the top of frame. I just don't know what happens when the swingarm loses it's mounting point to the frame. I really hope I don't need to remove the swingarm...cause, that might be the breaking point to paying for the job.
 
I have a Strada, so the Center Stand covered it for me...think I removed the rear wheel and remember having to remove the rear splash guard, did not have to remove gas tank, etc....good luck...
 
Bad, was it necessary to remove the real wheel? Like you can't access the lower shock mount with it on? Thanks for the SA.
 
I think I just need to remove the left side rear set and I'll be able to get to lower mounting bolt.
 
This is a pretty straight forward job. You'll obviously need a stand if you removed center stand.
1. With bike on stand, chalk or shim rear wheel. I chalked the front just in case it tried rolling if I had to go gorilla on it with a mallet.
2. Remove mud guard.
3. Remove preload adjuster mounting bolts
4. Remove gas reservoir. You'll need shorter bolts for the trim pieces if you discard the reservoir cradle. This will leave you with a loose charging port, which I rerouted to under my left thigh.
5. Remove dust cap from upper shock mount bolt access. *I had some water intrusion/ corrosion here and am rethinking those frame plugs...
6. I believe it's a 6mm allen/ hex for the mounting bolts. My hex socket wouldn't fit through the frame access hole for the top bolt so I had to use the allen. Might suck if yours is overtightened. I removed top first thinking I would rather this than removing the bottom and having the swingarm weight fight me on the lower bolt. If you shim the rear tire well, not an issue.
7. Remove lower bolt. You may have to drop the swingarm to clear the frame.

Install is basically reverse. I installed top first and you have to play with swingarm height to line up the mounting bolts. I used machine grease on the threads and sleeves.

BONUS: Ohlins is 2.5 lbs light than OEM (5.5 vs 8.0 lbs)
 
Bikes filthy and still in various states of repair. I won't share that smut! It is a gorgeous piece of hardware, though
 
Can't say until I actually take it for a spin, which probably won't be for another week. Even then, until I get it dialed in, might be awful. Preload was set from seller based on my anthro's.

But...I know my rear shock was holding me back. With the Andreani cartridge upgrade, my front stays planted in spirited riding and the rear gets loose or bounces, no matter how much I tweaked the limited adjustments. Keeping the OEM rear with upgraded front is just not a good formula. I know how important the rear suspension is but it's a very costly upgrade on an increasingly depreciating machine. I decided this will become a track bike so that's influencing my questionable purchase activity.

Gotta a pretty insane luggage project I'm finishing (stay tuned!). Need to have that complete before I start daily driving again.

Regardless, I got the unit brand new, set for my metrics and shipped for $1300. If interested, look up euro distributors that have favorable currency exchange rates. The C-19 economy looks to be having a favorable effect on auto parts. I bought mine locally from Italy and the shop was phenomenal to work with and just can't ship to FPO, APO, PO Box. This is their eBay handle: sestamarcia-racing-parts
 
What's the bit to the left (when viewing the picture) of the resevoir? Some sort of hydraulic preload adjuster?
 
Initial impressions:

- Planted. When I used to slow to a stop, had significant dive and tended to flop to the left, causing me to instinctively put my left foot down in anticipation. Gone. Almost no dive; smooth and progressive nose dip. Also, stays on centerline; no flop. Weird as I keep sticking my foot out early to catch it. This makes it nicer in stop-and-go traffic. So far, smooth highway cruising is more pleasant as it just feels more "on a rail" - the back end gave a lot more road feedback previously and it was about 15 minutes before I had to start making frequent body adjustments to relieve my lower back.
- Damped. Obviously soaks up bumps better than stocker. Really calms the ride as I'm not bronco'd out of my seat constantly and I can stay in the saddle for stuff I used to perch for previously.
- Feels like I need to at least adjust rebound on my front forks to match the back end.
- Static and weighted sag are a tad taller, which I can adjust but will stick with the expert settings shipped to me for now.

*NOTES*
1. Baseline settings. Rebound is right in the middle and compression is just a couple clicks above center. Much tinkering to do...
2. Andreani fronts. I have upgraded shock inserts, further complicating my money zone search.
3. Daily driver. I normally ride with at least 15 pounds of gear in the luggage. How much this will affect naked "hooligan" vs commuter settings is yet to be learned.
4. **** roads. My primary line to work is just a tad better than a Cambodian farm trail. Pot holes, bad patch jobs, very slick in places, awful traffic, etc. My settings on a nice US highway would be dramatically different.
5. Anthro's. 69", 185 lbs
 
No suspension expert but I'd bias towards fun. I have my bike set for me with gear only. When I do need to carry anything I try to keep the weight down and just adjust in the twisties by shifting my weight forward to keep things as balanced as possible. I hunt down bad pavement in the mountains as I enjoy those rough backroads for some reason so I tend to keep things compliant as possible without overdoing the sag. Fork is easier to set than the shock, do the bounce test and see if it pogos or just returns to neutral and adjust rebound until you can eliminate bounce. I find compression to be more of a preference and keep mine relatively soft up until the fork is diving too much.
 
gatdammit said:
Bad, was it necessary to remove the real wheel? Like you can't access the lower shock mount with it on? Thanks for the SA.
Click to expand...
Sorry I'm so late seeing this, was going to sell the bike and haven't kept up here...truck broke and was stuck in stealer for a week and had to ride it again, now I can't sell it, rode it all day today, going to finish the upgrades I bought and haven't installed yet...To your question, IF you had to remove the wheel go get at the rear hugger or shock mount bolt, then yes, but I don't recall removing it...Your reloader looks a lot like my Mupo preloader, if you find an adjuster knob for that, I'll like to know about it...
 
Could you do me a favour please, would you measure your old shock length from center mount points.
I've got a low version and even after raising the pegs and brake/gear controls i'm detroying them on trackdays, I'm thinking of fitting a standard rear shock and lifting the front up on the forks.
Dont want to spend a fortune on new suspension, bike has 32k miles and not worth much now.
 
I really enjoyed reading it
Here is a link to my profile


beautiful_girls_36.jpg
 
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