Recent content by Mude

Just checked and the right side of my 698 is definitely reversed thread.

And you are here to present the other side of the story as a representative of Shift-Tech?

This wasn't some stodgy cake grandma baked for a charity jumble sale, it a real product sold for profit by a real company. It was never marketed as some prototype for the customer to test, and yet that's what they are now asking all their customers to do. Honestly, what you've written sounds...

I wouldn't get the tyre in the picture unless you are on track with a dirt section, there's not much point otherwise. I started to have slicks cut for me rather than buying pre-cut, as they are a pain to import here. For the road, the track tyres never get up to working temperature. Pirelli...

I feel like I've been spamming this thread, but I have an update. When the front sensor is set to -8C or below, the evap purge valve PWM, after about 60 seconds, changes to 0%. Then when the front sensor rises above -8C it changes back to 3-3.5% (again after 60 seconds). The PWM value remains...

I did a 1000km trip recently with a 20L Kriega and the under-seat straps. I could get the straps far enough back in the subframe that the bag wasn't pressing too much into my lower back. Better than I've ever been able to achieve with the 950. Any further back (e.g. strapping under the rear...

Thanks. I'm thinking that if it's just a flat 5% change in the short term fuel trim, regardless of how much below -8 you go (i.e. it's either on or off), then it's probably simpler to go with a single resistor instead of a thermistor series. One theory suggested to me by a couple of people, is...

Iskandar, please can you tell me that you also went out riding the bike on the same day with the stock configuration? And if so was the difference obvious between runs? The elephant in the room is that the 10K Thermistor will not be able to achieve -7/-8 in the months of April to October.

Some corrections I need to make: The value of 255 when the front sensor is unplugged is not an error state, it's actually a value of 215C (A-40), the maximum value in the range. This makes sense for a defect detect algorithm. I could not replicate consistently the fluctuations in fuel trim...

For the moment I'm going to pause testing, it's extremely difficult to control the environment to do an A to B test. For example a drop from 30C to 25C (stock) is very obvious (to any rider), even though 6 hours has passed between. Nothing is obvious when testing what is plugged into the dash...

Tested Stock vs resistor setting the dash at -10C. When it was 30C outside: I couldn't tell any difference. Probably to be expected at this temperature? When it was 24C outside: Possibly, some hard pulls from 3rd and 4th @4000 sounds a bit better, below that it still doesn't want to pull, so...

Thank you Iskandar. Your results with your experiment show The lower temperature from air box sensor caused the ECU to lookup a different value in the map and then in closed loop (idle in your case) the STFT was adjusted negative because of the O2 sensor feedback. This is expected behaviour. I...

The bike needs an ECU flash, and for that it needs time and effort for a company to dedicate to cracking the new ECU, and for that to happen there needs to be the pressure of enough people wanting to buy an ECU flash. If a company is making some product as a quick fix, then that pressure is...

I have copied it and run with it. I didn't notice any difference (apart from a number on the dash), both in closed loop and open loop. I live in a warm country so it isn't some seasonal issue. This includes ride feel closed loop and open loop, temperature measurements of the headers, and the...

Can probably rule such a fail-safe out for the moment. There's a bunch of bikes out there running with this thing, a dash with a negative temp reading and the ECU 20+ above what the dash says; and looks like no errors. Can run the bike with the front unplugged. I don't think I've run more than...