I took my clutch off tonight in preparation for installing the new one. I followed bayotte's DIY and it worked perfectly - thank you bayotte for the helpful addition to the forum. I had to order threaded rod online since none of my local hardware stores had that size. I might recommend wing nuts if you can to make it easier. I have to use a super tiny weird wrench.
Threaded rod: https://www.mcmaster.com/#90024a218/=1a1n57a
Nuts: https://www.mcmaster.com/#94150a325/=1a1n5dv
A couple small notes from his DIY that I will post later as well:
-Be careful when pulling out the clutch pack to not lose the washer behind the clutch pack! It will be stuck to the back with oil.
-The torque spec for the 32mm nut is 190Nm, not 190 ft-lbs, which is 140ft-lbs.
-Be careful not to lose or damage the green o-ring inside the engine case.
-When loosening the nuts on the threaded rod, hold the rod with a vise-grips to prevent it from spinning.
A couple notes from disassembly so far also. My stock clutch looks practically new at almost 15k miles. The part of the clutch pack that slides on the friction plates is barely worn, and there are very very minor ridges on the clutch pack and basket. I can just barely feel them with my fingernail. I am a very light clutch user though, I will say.
All of the friction and steel plates were identical. I didn't see any special "conical" plate to imply some kind of springy cushion. No wonder the clutch is so grabby. I measured every plate. The 11 friction plates ranged from 3.50-3.56mm, and the 10 steel plates ranged from 1.48-1.51mm. Already seeing some discrepancies from the service manual.
Threaded rod: https://www.mcmaster.com/#90024a218/=1a1n57a
Nuts: https://www.mcmaster.com/#94150a325/=1a1n5dv
A couple small notes from his DIY that I will post later as well:
-Be careful when pulling out the clutch pack to not lose the washer behind the clutch pack! It will be stuck to the back with oil.
-The torque spec for the 32mm nut is 190Nm, not 190 ft-lbs, which is 140ft-lbs.
-Be careful not to lose or damage the green o-ring inside the engine case.
-When loosening the nuts on the threaded rod, hold the rod with a vise-grips to prevent it from spinning.
A couple notes from disassembly so far also. My stock clutch looks practically new at almost 15k miles. The part of the clutch pack that slides on the friction plates is barely worn, and there are very very minor ridges on the clutch pack and basket. I can just barely feel them with my fingernail. I am a very light clutch user though, I will say.
All of the friction and steel plates were identical. I didn't see any special "conical" plate to imply some kind of springy cushion. No wonder the clutch is so grabby. I measured every plate. The 11 friction plates ranged from 3.50-3.56mm, and the 10 steel plates ranged from 1.48-1.51mm. Already seeing some discrepancies from the service manual.
I have the parts in-hand and they look good.
