I've had success cleaning rotors with denatured alcohol and a brown scotch pad. Brake cleaner is super nasty and evaporates so quickly it's hard to use on large surfaces.
Brake rotors pulsating after 2k miles
- Thread starter wheelieboy1
- Start date
Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
Absolutely. The trick is applying it so you don't get oil all over your rotors. And only using enough to break the bobbins free. I think I would shoot them down with brake cleaner and get them moving, then use a toothpick or something to get a light coat in the channel.
Joined Dec 2014
78 Posts | 0+
Vietnam
Was having a hunt around and came across this vid on You tube.
I'm going to give it a go as this guy does just with the brake cleaner first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qoPqN2GBdw
I'm going to give it a go as this guy does just with the brake cleaner first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qoPqN2GBdw
Joined Oct 2015
545 Posts | 0+
Minnesota
I hate to drag this topic up again, but there has to be a solution to this problem.
After getting my rotors replaced after 7k miles on the bike, I'm now at 12k and the rotors are pulsing really bad again. After reading around the consensus seemed to be that most problems stemmed from bad stock pad material or sticky buttons.
I've attempted to alleviate both of these issues by installing Galfer HH pads when the rotors were new. I also tried taking a very very small amount of gun oil to the buttons and spinning them to move the lube around.
I'm starting to get really frustrated with this, because now my rear brake is starting to pulse too. I have a feeling Ducati is going to bone me on this warranty request. After speaking with my Dealer's service dept, the service writer mentioned that if Ducati finds out I've been using aftermarket pads, game over. On top of the fact it was hard enough the first time to get them to replace the rotors (still wouldn't do pads, go figure). Which sucks a big one because I think I tossed them when I swapped over to Galfers.
I know I remember reading a post on here about gatdammit getting his rotors replaced with something better (here), can anyone chime in on a more permanent fix?
When the OEM rotors cost almost $700, this isn't something that ANYONE should have fail after 5000 miles.
Edit:
I should also ask, anyone have good luck asking the dealer to replace with the same rotors gatdammit has? I have a feeling if I ask the dealer, I'll get denied. Do dealers simply get the warranty parts for free, or does Ducati just reimburse the dealer for the cost?
After getting my rotors replaced after 7k miles on the bike, I'm now at 12k and the rotors are pulsing really bad again. After reading around the consensus seemed to be that most problems stemmed from bad stock pad material or sticky buttons.
I've attempted to alleviate both of these issues by installing Galfer HH pads when the rotors were new. I also tried taking a very very small amount of gun oil to the buttons and spinning them to move the lube around.
I'm starting to get really frustrated with this, because now my rear brake is starting to pulse too. I have a feeling Ducati is going to bone me on this warranty request. After speaking with my Dealer's service dept, the service writer mentioned that if Ducati finds out I've been using aftermarket pads, game over. On top of the fact it was hard enough the first time to get them to replace the rotors (still wouldn't do pads, go figure). Which sucks a big one because I think I tossed them when I swapped over to Galfers.
I know I remember reading a post on here about gatdammit getting his rotors replaced with something better (here), can anyone chime in on a more permanent fix?
When the OEM rotors cost almost $700, this isn't something that ANYONE should have fail after 5000 miles.
Edit:
I should also ask, anyone have good luck asking the dealer to replace with the same rotors gatdammit has? I have a feeling if I ask the dealer, I'll get denied. Do dealers simply get the warranty parts for free, or does Ducati just reimburse the dealer for the cost?
Last edited:
Funny how they have made a low quality product, but if you try to fix it with something better they will no longer help you. It's a lose-lose situation!
Interestingly I've never had a pulsing problem with my brakes.
However, in the KTM community, the brake pulsing is a big problem on the 1290 Superdukes, and it has been traced to a problem with the wheel, the surface where the rotor mounts is not perpendicular to the axis of the wheel, so it causes the rotors to have a slight wobble to them. Have you checked runout on the disks?
One tiny drop of moly lube on each "button" on the front rotors every time you wash the bike and the "problem" is gone forever. All of this yammering about pad and/or rotor replacement is laughable.
Joined Oct 2015
545 Posts | 0+
Minnesota
I wouldn't necessarily have a problem with some cost-cutting, as long as they owned up to it and rectified the problem. But when a rotor costs $355 each, with this kind of quality problem, it's completely unacceptable. I haven't checked runout. I planned on doing a teardown and clean tonight since I've got another road trip planned for this weekend. I did find some kind of deposit on one of the rotors that felt almost sticky, not sure what it is yet. Definitely not oil though.
If that was the case, my problem would have already been solved. I've unstuck, cleaned, and lubed with a very small amount of gun oil. All buttons are free to move. None of the lubricant has found it's way to the braking surface either. Still having pulsing issues.
In fact, the rotors are in such good shape, they still show some of the cross-hatching on the braking surface, which is why I'm so perplexed that this can even be a problem.
3 in 1 is vegetable based and will form a gummy deposit as it dries. I wouldn't use it.
The front brake on my new-to-me hyper is pulsing like a mofo. Dealer told me to resurface the rotor with a scotchbrite pad and clean with brake cleaner. I'd like to lube these "buttons" too, but don't know what those are. Can someone advise or take a pic? Thanks.
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They look more or less like the circular part in this image that connects between the gold colored carrier and the disc itself.
I just got a new-to-me 2014 strada with the same front brake pulsing. I found the left front rotor thickness varies about 0.0015". Have an appointment with the dealer in 2 weeks.
Can't understand why the PO didn't take it in under warranty??? Bike only has 5k on it.
Can't understand why the PO didn't take it in under warranty??? Bike only has 5k on it.
I'm in the same boat. The PO of my HS failed to get the throttle recall done and didn't sort out the brakes. He also dumped the bike prior to doing the 9k service. I understand the sale before the service, but not doing those other things under warranty or as a free service recall is unacceptable.
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They look more or less like the circular part in this image that connects between the gold colored carrier and the disc itself.
Sweet. Thank you!!!
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Pulsing disappeared - for now
I just got new Michelin PR4s and after I put the wheels on the bike I discovered the significant pulsing from the front disappeared! Nothing special done, just removed wheel and put back on. I had tried 3 in 1 on the buttons a while ago and it reduced the pulsing, but didn't eliminate it and it eventually got worse. I wonder if the removal and reinstallation put the brake pads in a very slightly different position which removed the pulsing. Any theories or opinions are appreciated as this came as quite a pleasant surprise.
I just got new Michelin PR4s and after I put the wheels on the bike I discovered the significant pulsing from the front disappeared! Nothing special done, just removed wheel and put back on. I had tried 3 in 1 on the buttons a while ago and it reduced the pulsing, but didn't eliminate it and it eventually got worse. I wonder if the removal and reinstallation put the brake pads in a very slightly different position which removed the pulsing. Any theories or opinions are appreciated as this came as quite a pleasant surprise.
Pogo Forks
I'm new to the Ducati family (used 2014 Strada, 6000miles, I've put about a 1000 miles on it so far). My first Italian bike!
I too started experiencing the slow speed pulsing. I should be a little more specific, the pulsing isn't in the lever, it's in the forks. When I'm pulling up to a light the cagers are wondering what the heck I'm doing, "Why is he pumping his brakes like that?" Okay, they probably don't care. Crazy biker.
After visiting this site I discovered some possible fixes. I cleaned my rotors with Scotchbrite pads and acetone (what I had on hand). I made sure my bobbins where turning. The moly lube is next. Even though that goes against my better instincts (lube & brakes).
OH, I even tried a new set of EBC pads, no difference.
Now I did see a video of after a rotor change of having someone, or a bungee, hold your front brake on while you tighten up the axle and pinch bolts. Something else to try. Since some people experience problems after a tire change.
I did check the run out with a super sophisticated Harbor Freight gauge. But some people say that using a run out gauge on a floating rotor is problematic. There was a little more movement in the right than the left on mine. Has anyone find out what the acceptable tolerances are? I can't.
In the midst of this testing/analysis, I was sitting at a long light, on an incline, with the front brake on. After awhile the lever would slowly sink to the grip. I could quickly pump once to get it back to the start. I think I may have something going on in my master cylinder. Pogoing I can deal with, this one gets priority now.
I checked on a rebuild kit but I guess Brembo/Ducati doesn't supply those (some suggest liability issues, I'll sign a wavier!). You have to buy the entire assemble (lever, mounting hardware, switch, Oh look, spares). If you have a rebuild kit source please let me know
For strictly scientific purposes I purchased a used master cylinder assembly on Ebay. I think the guy parted out his low mileage bike because he included the hose to the ABS also. Plus the lever tip was scraped. Maybe my master cylinder is causing problems further down the line?
I was thinking about going with a radial master cylinder (I hope my terminology is correct). All the racers are using them! Just wondering if you can get one for under $500. (By the way a new stock master cylinder assembly is $310.) I guess they all use a Banjo pressure switch for the brake light? On the ones I saw you had to buy a fluid reservoir separately.
Cold weather is here now so I have some time to iron out the problems.
Thanks for listening.
This is great therapy.
I'm new to the Ducati family (used 2014 Strada, 6000miles, I've put about a 1000 miles on it so far). My first Italian bike!
I too started experiencing the slow speed pulsing. I should be a little more specific, the pulsing isn't in the lever, it's in the forks. When I'm pulling up to a light the cagers are wondering what the heck I'm doing, "Why is he pumping his brakes like that?" Okay, they probably don't care. Crazy biker.
After visiting this site I discovered some possible fixes. I cleaned my rotors with Scotchbrite pads and acetone (what I had on hand). I made sure my bobbins where turning. The moly lube is next. Even though that goes against my better instincts (lube & brakes).
OH, I even tried a new set of EBC pads, no difference.
Now I did see a video of after a rotor change of having someone, or a bungee, hold your front brake on while you tighten up the axle and pinch bolts. Something else to try. Since some people experience problems after a tire change.
I did check the run out with a super sophisticated Harbor Freight gauge. But some people say that using a run out gauge on a floating rotor is problematic. There was a little more movement in the right than the left on mine. Has anyone find out what the acceptable tolerances are? I can't.
In the midst of this testing/analysis, I was sitting at a long light, on an incline, with the front brake on. After awhile the lever would slowly sink to the grip. I could quickly pump once to get it back to the start. I think I may have something going on in my master cylinder. Pogoing I can deal with, this one gets priority now.
I checked on a rebuild kit but I guess Brembo/Ducati doesn't supply those (some suggest liability issues, I'll sign a wavier!). You have to buy the entire assemble (lever, mounting hardware, switch, Oh look, spares). If you have a rebuild kit source please let me know
For strictly scientific purposes I purchased a used master cylinder assembly on Ebay. I think the guy parted out his low mileage bike because he included the hose to the ABS also. Plus the lever tip was scraped. Maybe my master cylinder is causing problems further down the line?
I was thinking about going with a radial master cylinder (I hope my terminology is correct). All the racers are using them! Just wondering if you can get one for under $500. (By the way a new stock master cylinder assembly is $310.) I guess they all use a Banjo pressure switch for the brake light? On the ones I saw you had to buy a fluid reservoir separately.
Cold weather is here now so I have some time to iron out the problems.
Thanks for listening.
This is great therapy.
Joined Oct 2015
545 Posts | 0+
Minnesota
I was also considering this. Take-offs from a superbike could be easy to find, and cheap. The trouble is finding documentation on the cylinder sizes & matching it up with the stock one.
