Currently doing Valve Adjustment, got some weird measurements.

saken · Jan 19, 2020

Hey guys,

Im at 18,000kms and had the bike apart so I decided to check valve clearances. On the Vert cyl all closers were out of spec by quite a bit!!! 2 were 0.09 and 2 were 0.15/16! I did the adjustment on my SF years ago so I might of forgot 1 step because after changing the shims out Im getting pretty much the same measurements. Before changing the shims I put the piston at TDC so valves dont fall, changed out the shims, torqued everything back to spec and remeasured. Same measurements. Do I need to put the horizontal back to TDC before remeasuring? When the vert is at tdc the rocker springs on the exhaust valves are at max load which made changing those shims a PITA BTW. So this is putting force on both rocker arms giving me the weird measurements right?

krolinked · Jan 19, 2020

Did you use new collets? I believe using new collets vs the used will change the gap also

krolinked · Jan 19, 2020

krolinked said:
Did you use new collets? I believe using new collets vs the used will change the gap also

Also did you torque the cam caps to spec when you measure

saken · Jan 19, 2020

Thanks for the response guys. I reused the half rings again as they wernt not noticbely deformed or damaged in anyway. I did measure them with the cam caps torqued to spec 22nm as I heard this was the only way to get accurate measurements. Which is puzzling why the measurements wont change even when I went from a 3.35m shim to a 3.20m just to see if it would change.

saken · Jan 22, 2020

Nevermind, I figured it out. For some reason the factory put a ton of gasket sealant on the cover, a lot of the dried sealant made its way into the cracks of the rubber ring on the cams causing it not to seat right. I dont feel like taking this all apart again for awhile so Im going for the 0.02 gaps. Looks like I have a bit of sanding ahead of me....

hyperbruno · Jul 5, 2021

I'm about to do the belt change and valve check/adjustment myself. I watched tons of videos on testastretta valve checking/adjustment but no one about about our Hyperstradas/motards. So, some questions:
1. Do I need to remove the airbox to check vertical cylinder valves?
2. Do I need to remove the radiator to check horizontal cylinder valves? Service manual says to remove only the radiator bolt that fix it to the horizontal cylinder, but I'm skeptical that there's enough clearance to check the valves with the radiator on the way.
3. My brother has the EMS shim kit for his Monster 796. Although the kit is for 2V - 7mm engines, the part numbers for the openers and closers shims are identical to 4V-7mm testastretta. Can someone confirm that the shims are compatible?

cheers

saken · Jul 15, 2021

You dont need to remove the airbox. I did remove the rad because I was changing out the coolant but from what I remember its not necessary although it'll make the area cramped. Cant say if those shims are the same as I bought the 4v 7mm hyper specific ems kit. Id shoot them an email.

hyperbruno · Jul 15, 2021

Thanks for the reply. I’ll try it without removing the radiator as I just did coolant change (aprox an year ago).
According to desmotimes forum, the 2v and 4v 7mm valves motors share the same shims.

hyperbruno · Jul 23, 2021

I’ve got very weird measurements for openers and clores in the intake valves of the horizontal. All the other are on spec.
This means vale seat problem?
Intake Horizontal
Left opener - 0.02
Right opener - 0.08
Left closer - 0.28
Right closer - 0.20
All in mm.

hyperbruno · Jul 24, 2021

So, disabled the camshafts and replaced the shims. Put all back to spec.
The left closer was way too loose. With the bigger shim on the kit (3.45) O was able to put it back to 0.09 - 0.05 was the goal but 0.09 is within the assembly spec…

Took the bike for a spin and I have the impression that the bike is smoother in high revs.

saken · Jul 25, 2021

I am right in the middle of doing this job again as I had an engine light come on. I didn't take off the rad for the horizontal cylinder. Just loosen it up and moved it to the side a bit. The bike seems to run fine though as the engine light goes away and comes back off and on. But I did notice a difference in power over the last 5000km or so. Like the bike would run out of the powerband super fast. I took it apart, measured the gaps and a lot of valves were out of spec. Mostly on the exhaust side. Pretty big gaps like 0.14mm / 0.19mm range. Its suggested 0.02-0.04mm for closers and 0.05 - 0.07mm for openers. Because the closer you get to the lower end of those measurement ranges the longer you don't need to do a value shim change again. Because closers close and openers open over time? I believe the operating range for measurement gaps was around 0.10mm / 0.13mm. I shot for these ranges last time at the 16,000km valve change because I was lazy and I'm at 28,000km now and now I'm getting these huge gaps... Weird. .. My guess is they went out of spec so quick because I used new half clips on some valves last time. And as they broke/wore in they caused the gaps to open larger and quicker than normal?

hyperbruno · Jul 26, 2021

I did mine with 30.000km, this is the first time I checked valve clearances. Most of the valves was within the assembly spec: 0.13-0.18 for openers, 0.05-0.10 for closers. The openers were basically on the middle of the range, but the closes most on the loose side ~0.09. I was lazy to change all of them and hope their clearances will be less than 0.15 on next check.
Now for the horizontal intake valves, on the of openers was like Zero clearance. All closers very loose. Yes, I believe that closers open and openers close over time because of valves set in their seats, but reading a lot on valve clearances changes it seems that this is not always the case. Carbon build-up specially on the exhaust valves can cause the closers to close.
I reused the half-rings. I checked them with a magnifier and couldn't tell that they wore... they seemed to me very circular. So I believe that the odd values I measured was because of factory assembly or valve seat wear specially is those cylinders. Just hope I don't have a loose valve guide of valve seat manufacturing problem.
The bike runs very strong over 6k now, I was very impressed! Not sure if that's because the horizontal cylinder was loosing pressure due to huge closer clearance... but I could feel the improvement in torque and smoothness.
I did't take the rad off, I disconnected the right fan cable and pushed it to the side with an elastic hope.
Did you have a chance to check the stored errors in the ECU? I had success using Melcodiag for that, although it wont reset service lights....

saken · Aug 10, 2021

I haven't had a chance to take the bike to the dealer to get the errors read. I was going to set the valves up before as they were out of spec and see if I could repeat the error. But now I have a problem. After I put everything back together I have a clacking sound from the vert cylinder. I'm guessing either a shim is too tight or I messed up and lost the cam timing. I'm thinking I am off by 1 tooth on the timing even though the marks I made lined up.....

Currently doing Valve Adjustment, got some weird measurements.

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