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Front brake

Yup - I think I posted this 3 times on this thread - and the next post will be: "my brakes suck." Life in the movies.:)

My brakes suck..... what do?? But in all honesty, another +1. Mine were totally trash until I flushed them with some DOT 4. I didn't bother to reset the calipers or hold the lever down either.
 
My brakes suck..... what do?? But in all honesty, another +1. Mine were totally trash until I flushed them with some DOT 4. I didn't bother to reset the calipers or hold the lever down either.

Nice one.:)

I got them pretty good without the caliper thing, but when I changed my tires, I pulled the calipers and figured I'd just do it. So much better - that crappy fluid (though I'm thinking it's all up to govt standards-dot4 is always dot4 - but who knows.) is still in your abs circuit.
 
can you elaborate on this?

It's called for in the manual - though it doesn't say why. I researched and came up with the reason; clearing the abs system.

My first bleed I didn't remove and push the calipers back and I couldn't get rid of the mush. By mush, I mean the lever contacting the grip. The ziptie trick worked well, but the double pump thing came back more than I was comfortable with.

I had to change the tire so while the wheel was off, I went by the book. Much better immediate results. After miles of smiles there's a slight double pump but probably just needs another bleed.

In the end it's not much extra effort - just have a way to hang the calipers so they don't dangle from the brake hoses.

Hope this helps.
 
I have felt a lot of front brakes on various hypers at the dealer and pretty much all of them had the double pump. The best one I felt was a 2015 SP, and the worst was a 2013 'strada. But they all had it.

I found that bleeding my SP from the caliper using the little bleed screw was the best method for minimizing it. Still don't know why the hypers have this problem, but not other bikes.
 
I don't know. I couldn't get my rear bled properly and had the dealer fix it while in for other service. Tech said all he did was hook it up to a power bleeder and flush - never removed the caliper. He said the later model Duc's are just really tricky to get all the air out of the system.
 
It's called for in the manual - though it doesn't say why. I researched and came up with the reason; clearing the abs system.

My first bleed I didn't remove and push the calipers back and I couldn't get rid of the mush. By mush, I mean the lever contacting the grip. The ziptie trick worked well, but the double pump thing came back more than I was comfortable with.

I had to change the tire so while the wheel was off, I went by the book. Much better immediate results. After miles of smiles there's a slight double pump but probably just needs another bleed.

In the end it's not much extra effort - just have a way to hang the calipers so they don't dangle from the brake hoses.

Hope this helps.

thanks. on my ride this weekend I noticed the first pull was not as firm as in the past, and the second was good. I found this thread and was prepared to change the fluid (I still am) but came across this 'push the pad' thing.

so you just pulled the calipers, opened the bleed screw, and pushed the piston (and pad) in? and then just bled normally after that? sorry, I don't have a service manual yet. mine is still under warranty.