HyperProject
- Thread starter BadToTheBown
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Finished installing those beautiful aux lights...Really like these...Took Patrick's advice and soldered the wires...Had a fit putting the headlight back in, went for a 2" hole for the headlight connector...
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Here's the installed pics...I like the forks all black...Now I'm wondering if I can reconfigure the shock so I can swap it around and put the heavy end to the frame and light end to the swingarm...Went for the cartridges in both forks which requires the left lower tube be removed to machine the brake/axle bracket to accept a cartridge...The rear is the Mupo EVO with a preloader...Word of wisdom on installing the rear shock, wasted the better part of 40 minutes TRYING to install the shock by putting in the frame bolt first, then the swingarm bolt, changed it up and took the frame bolt out, then started with the bolt in the swingarm and then the frame was easy...
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Also made some electrical changes while I was at it...went with a LiFe battery but all the new connections required little bus bars to relo it on top of the battery...added the following:
1) Aux lights (posted earlier)
2) Battery Jumper socket (I have mini jump cables)
Added battery recharger cable to properly maintain the battery and relocated accessory plug because the new rear shock made the original shock reservoir mount that held it had to go...These were a royal PITA to relocate, Ducati didn't leave much room under that body work...
1) Aux lights (posted earlier)
2) Battery Jumper socket (I have mini jump cables)
Added battery recharger cable to properly maintain the battery and relocated accessory plug because the new rear shock made the original shock reservoir mount that held it had to go...These were a royal PITA to relocate, Ducati didn't leave much room under that body work...
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Wow, that suspension looks great. Love the black. You got nice SKF seals on there too, it looks like.
Nice work on the headlight connector install. I couldn't even tell you modified it!
Nice work on the headlight connector install. I couldn't even tell you modified it!
I just opened up the strain relief crimps and added your wires and then soldered the wires to the contacts as you suggested. I really need a newer soldering iron.
It was a lot of money but Roger really did an outstanding job on the forks. They feel as good as they look. I need ride them harder to explore them more. Those are SKS seals.
If you look close at the rear shock pic, you'll see they DLC'd the shock shaft too on that EVO (how it comes, I didn't request it).
It was a lot of money but Roger really did an outstanding job on the forks. They feel as good as they look. I need ride them harder to explore them more. Those are SKS seals.
If you look close at the rear shock pic, you'll see they DLC'd the shock shaft too on that EVO (how it comes, I didn't request it).
OK, back to upgrading the bike. Starting to put some miles on it now. Just installed Givi 30L bags (thought the 33L bags looked too out of proportion) using the Bellevue Ducati mounts. Had an unexpected problem or two. First, one of the screws I took out wasn't properly rolled (formed) and I had to chase the threads in that insert to get a good screw in it. Wish I had had a roll tap for that. Also had to drill out the plate mounting holes from .250" to about .281" on right and .312" on left to hand thread in the mounting screws. Fortunately the counter bores were big enough to allow the screws to skew to one side of the counter bore. Here's some pics...Quickshifter next...
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OK, quickshifter installed. Much easier than I read. I"m using the HealTech which is A LOT like the Fastlane on my Beemer. It uses a piezo to sense shift pressure (it's like a load cell in ceramic when squeezed puts out a current/signal). It came with an adapter harness for my model bike. Here's the kit...
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If you ever have to replace the coils on this bike, it looks like you're pulling the gas tank and the radiator. However, Ducati has about an 8" or so pigtail on the coil with a nice weather proof connector and they're mounted where you can get at them. No need to pull the tank, just the seat and left rear cover panel under the subframe so you can route the connectors down and forward between the engine and the frame.
Pic 1 - Rear cylinder coil connector on left side under seat ty-wrapped to subframe (silver casting)
Pic 2 - Front cylinder coil connector (hard to see with hoses and frame in the way), it slips onto a tab on the frame to lock it on, you'll need a small screw driver to release the tab lock and it slips up and off
Pic 3 - end of adapter harness, you're basically putting the quickshifter inline to the coils so it can kill the coil when you shift, wires were not protected all the way up, so I wrapped them in friction tape
Pic 4 - adapter harness routing
Pic 5 - adapter connectors plugged in to rear coil pigtail under seat
This really was pretty easy, hardest part was sneaking the connectors up between the engine and the frame to the front coil. The wiring for the rear coil breakout was too far forward so I just routed it back to the rear and ty-wrapped it to the main bundle of the adapter harness. It will look and feel like you can't sneak the connectors between things, play with it, they fit. This part probably took the longest.
Pic 1 - Rear cylinder coil connector on left side under seat ty-wrapped to subframe (silver casting)
Pic 2 - Front cylinder coil connector (hard to see with hoses and frame in the way), it slips onto a tab on the frame to lock it on, you'll need a small screw driver to release the tab lock and it slips up and off
Pic 3 - end of adapter harness, you're basically putting the quickshifter inline to the coils so it can kill the coil when you shift, wires were not protected all the way up, so I wrapped them in friction tape
Pic 4 - adapter harness routing
Pic 5 - adapter connectors plugged in to rear coil pigtail under seat
This really was pretty easy, hardest part was sneaking the connectors up between the engine and the frame to the front coil. The wiring for the rear coil breakout was too far forward so I just routed it back to the rear and ty-wrapped it to the main bundle of the adapter harness. It will look and feel like you can't sneak the connectors between things, play with it, they fit. This part probably took the longest.
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Here's the box (electronic brain) installed above the battery. I have a LiFe battery, which is smaller than stock, so I have some room above it.
Pic 6 - box velcro'd to top of battery
Pic 7 - everything installed, but I'm getting ahead of myself, I need to show you the sensor install
Also, the unit gets it's power from the coil taps, no other wiring, completely plug and play.
Pic 6 - box velcro'd to top of battery
Pic 7 - everything installed, but I'm getting ahead of myself, I need to show you the sensor install
Also, the unit gets it's power from the coil taps, no other wiring, completely plug and play.
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I also added my Rizomo pegs in the hope of saving my toe sliders.
Pic 8 - big pic of left side install showing the elevated peg, piezo sensor on the pinch bolt for the shift arm on the trans shifter shaft (you have to look close to see it) and wire routing piggybacked on existing harnessing with ty-wraps
Pic 9 - same thing only closer
Pic 10 - closeup so to see the piezo
When I turn on the ignition, I get the red light as expected. I have to start it to get a green light but it's 2:00 am here and I'm thinking that's a bad idea...good night...
Pic 8 - big pic of left side install showing the elevated peg, piezo sensor on the pinch bolt for the shift arm on the trans shifter shaft (you have to look close to see it) and wire routing piggybacked on existing harnessing with ty-wraps
Pic 9 - same thing only closer
Pic 10 - closeup so to see the piezo
When I turn on the ignition, I get the red light as expected. I have to start it to get a green light but it's 2:00 am here and I'm thinking that's a bad idea...good night...
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Looks nice. I bet that quick shifter will sound amazing since its still dumping fuel but cuts spark. Nice little pop between shifts 
My Fastlane on my Beemer works the same way and it doesn't but we'll see.
OK, I should be in bed with the old lady but I still had that itch to work on my bike right after I said good night...so I installed the Rotopax, gives me a gallon just in case. My friend that I will be touring with next week has a Multistrada, so he has a much larger tank...
OK, I should be in bed with the old lady but I still had that itch to work on my bike right after I said good night...so I installed the Rotopax, gives me a gallon just in case. My friend that I will be touring with next week has a Multistrada, so he has a much larger tank...
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Just test rode the bike and the quickshifter worked straight away without any iPhone app adjustment (it's wireless and you adjust it with an app on your phone). No backfire either. Certainly your theory is sound but it doesn't. No idea why as I agree is probably should. It also works down to first gear (not recommended) and you do still have to blip the throttle on clutchless down shifts but it works and works well. Now I just need to learn to remember to not move the throttle when using it to up shift.
Getting ready for a sport touring trip with my favorite riding buddy from NJ and just had to have a better master cylinder. The axial one works fine but feels more like an on-off switch. I've not had any of the sticking caliper pistons issues I've read others have had. As a precaution I lubed the pistons with Sil-Glyde (pic below) and I like the higher temp brade fluids where I use Motul RBF 600 (also below).
Next pic shows the Brembo RCS 17 (18-20). It comes with the brake switch. I soldered sleeved mine in instead of using connectors. Stock was 16mm master cylinder. I'm looking for better feel and modulation. Set on 18mm travel, it comes back too far for 2-fingers, so I'm starting out somewhere around 19-20mm setting.
Next pic is all finished. I used a Brembo mount and reservoir which I had to tweak (bend) to get right were I wanted it. I also reused the original master cylinder clamp the mirror screws into (reverse threads here for the mirror stalk, beware).
Next 2 pics are from the cockpit. You see a silver bar just below the handlebars, that's the axial to radial adapter that allows you to use the stock brake lines (still has to stretch a little). Last pic is a closeup of this. Vacuum pump bleed, clear Tygon tubing, saftety wire, etc. and it's done. You do need to also bleed at the master cylinder, not just the calipers. Ty-wrapped brake lever back to grip over night. Feels better, now I need to ride it.
UPDATE: did a crest ride with a friend today and I love this master cylinder, really, now brake modulation is easy and feels good. It does like to be adjusted out further between 19-20mm, forget the 18mm setting. I've read some using the RCS 19, but I would say this RCS 17 feels like the sweet spot on these calipers.
Next pic shows the Brembo RCS 17 (18-20). It comes with the brake switch. I soldered sleeved mine in instead of using connectors. Stock was 16mm master cylinder. I'm looking for better feel and modulation. Set on 18mm travel, it comes back too far for 2-fingers, so I'm starting out somewhere around 19-20mm setting.
Next pic is all finished. I used a Brembo mount and reservoir which I had to tweak (bend) to get right were I wanted it. I also reused the original master cylinder clamp the mirror screws into (reverse threads here for the mirror stalk, beware).
Next 2 pics are from the cockpit. You see a silver bar just below the handlebars, that's the axial to radial adapter that allows you to use the stock brake lines (still has to stretch a little). Last pic is a closeup of this. Vacuum pump bleed, clear Tygon tubing, saftety wire, etc. and it's done. You do need to also bleed at the master cylinder, not just the calipers. Ty-wrapped brake lever back to grip over night. Feels better, now I need to ride it.
UPDATE: did a crest ride with a friend today and I love this master cylinder, really, now brake modulation is easy and feels good. It does like to be adjusted out further between 19-20mm, forget the 18mm setting. I've read some using the RCS 19, but I would say this RCS 17 feels like the sweet spot on these calipers.
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