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Thanks, one of the reasons it looks so good are your lights. '-)

On farkles and mods, you should see my BMW R1150S Project Bike, I got carried away on quite a few things for a boxer bike and still not done. It's a lot lighter, has more power and handles a lot more like a Jap bike than a Beemer boxer now. Hard to believe but true. You just have to trust the front end, it's hard to feel it. Last time I lost the front I saw it, didn't feel it but that's a longer story that could have ended well if I had just stayed on the track...

For me, I'm going to screw with a bike anyway, so some of the Hyper's warts aren't so bad for me or I would have gone elsewhere. 2 things still nagging me on it: 1) clutch, which I believe you're going help me with and 2) it's weird about using the alarm and recognizing neutral after turning if off, I find I have to pull the clutch in for it to work. Odd and slightly annoying but not a deal breaker.

Now if I could just get a MTS 1200 motor in there...radiator and exhaust are the biggest problem...probably solvable... :)
 
Thanx, they're working out well. So far I'm happy with them. Seem like a right size bag for the bike and the monokey mounts mean it will be easy to use on other bikes. Thinks about building an R1150R touring bike they could also go on. They're the Givi Dolomiti 30L bags.
 
BadToTheBown said:
OK, I'm in a motorcycle advanced rider safety course and still breaking her in (less than 1000km). Just finished my last exercise/drill and bike stalls while idling. Feels like it wants to run on one cylinder. This is a brand new bike!

One of the instructors suggests I remove the gas cap (vapor lock?). I'm doubtful and then I go to remove it and the suction on cap has a death grip on it. Get it off and hear all this gurgling. Something is not right with the vent. By now I've already called for a tow. Half hour later he arrives (that was quick) and my gas tank has stopped gurgling. So what the hell, let's see if she'll start. It's rough but it starts, clears out and idles fine. $60 later for showing for the tow, I'm riding home skipping the tow.

Now I'm on this forum looking for why and it was here. Carbon canister is now off. Thank you, everything pretty much worked as you said it would. I just added some clamps and ty-wraps to keep the vent/drain line from moving around and tight to stuff. Time for my first service. Sorry for the dark pic, I was up late in my garage watching MotoGP while doing this, so the lighting sucks (also rotated 90 degrees).
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Was your bike new? You should have roadside assistance with your warranty, assuming you bought a new one or its less than 2 years old.
 
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Bike was brand new, maybe 500 miles on her.

Road side assistance with dealer was more a notion than a reality. Never received my reimbursement either.
 
kuksul08 said:
Looks quite farkled now :D

Should be a fun trip. Interested to see how you like that RCS17
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RCS 17 is the way to go, no question. Modulation is huge compared to the stocker. Glad I went with the recommended 17 over compulsions to go with the 19, the 17 proved right sized...
 
Awesome bike! Can you tell me where you found the axial to radial adaptor? I have the SP master cylinder and the cable is stretched and not routed the way I would like it to be. Huge difference in the way the front brakes feel, it's a necessary upgrade. Wondering how much better the suspension is now that you have fully upgraded it, I'm definitely not happy with mine at this point but not sure it's worth the +$2k to try to get it right. Thx for sharing your build!
 
Thanks, rode it today. Still need to upgrade clutch, stock is just evil but surprisingly light for a mechanical only clutch.

Several people make the adapters. Here's one - https://www.srtfactory.com/en/brake-accessories/radial-master-cylinder-adapter

The brakes on this bike are now my favorite for modulation (have 5 bikes, soon to be 4). I can feel them to the last inch of stopping.

Suspension upgrade has been awesome but you can get most of the front upgrade with the cheaper Andreani cartridge. This probably means just the one side because if you want both sides you have to machine the left lower brake caliper mount and that means removing the lower stanchion tubes. So you can get a lot of improvement for $500. Rear shock always felt pretty good to me. Maybe a change to a linear spring would have been nice but I like high and low speed compression dampening.

Going with the SP forks and trees means adding the SP rear shock and 3" of inseam.
 
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Thanks for the info. Yeah I may do the K-Tech cartridges, I have a bunch of friends who run their product on the track and hear nothing but good things. Did you end up doing the anti-judder upgrade on the clutch? I missed out on the last eBay kit.
 
I have those same Mupo K-911 carts in my stock Srada forks. They had to do some type of fork modification but boy what a difference they make. I put an Ohlins TTX36 in the rear.
 

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CPRICEIV said:
...I may do the K-Tech cartridges, I have a bunch of friends who run their product on the track and hear nothing but good things. Did you end up doing the anti-judder upgrade on the clutch? I missed out on the last eBay kit.
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I haven't put the spring in yet but I'm going to.

On the cartridges, it doesn't matter who does the if you are putting them in both sides, you probably have to machine the lower bracket (brake caliper bolts to) to accommodate the the rod end that protrudes down there. Heads up...
 
Brake Light Modulator (brake blinker)

OK, finally back onto the bike some. Bought a HealTech Brake Light Pro programmable brake light flasher (BLP-UO1) and didn't want to use the crappy pinch splices that came with it.

First I found the connector 2and unplugged them.
Then I bought some exact replacement connectors and pins. JWPF series and Digikey has them.
-03T-JWPF-VSLE-S - 3 position connector, tab side (male side)
-03R-JWPF-VSLE-S - 3 position connector, receptacle (female side)
-SWPR-001T-P025 - pin, socket side
-SWPT-001T-P025 - pin, male side

So I make a plugin harness out of the flasher unit using these connectors. Some free advice if you play with these connectors, listen to the Digikey vids on it and buy extras of everything, they're cheap. Also, stuffing the silicon plug into the back isn't as easy as it looks when done. The wire gauge that came with the unit were a tad big for the pin crimps, I trimmed the excess strands and it worked the first time. I need to draw up a wiring diagram to post.
 

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OK, ginned up a quick and simple wiring diagram in PowerPoint. If you're wondering why I have red for the jumper when it probably should be yellow, it's because that's what I had, not what I wanted.
 

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BadToTheBown said:
OK, ginned up a quick and simple wiring diagram in PowerPoint. If you're wondering why I have red for the jumper when it probably should be yellow, it's because that's what I had, not what I wanted.
Click to expand...

Very nice! Yeah anytime you can avoid cutting into a factory harness, it's a good idea. The cruise control unit I used to have had a piggyback connector off the rear tail light to get an ignition switched 12v. Looked similar to what you have created, just with a different wire.
 
That cruise control is on my To Do List, right after the gear indicator and pivoting rear brake pedal mod. and the exhaust valve elimination mod.

Then upgrading the shifter with Factory Pro parts I just ordered and the judder spring clutch fix.

THEN I upgrade the air intake and THEN I need to find me a new reflash map for my stock computer that will work with my new intake and exhaust mods....

It's an addiction really.... :-I
 
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