Rear wheel removing

Yama Hu · Oct 15, 2015

Hi,
I know should not be hard but I wonder if someone can share experience how to remove rear wheel on HS. What kind of tools I will need ... I guess there is no need to remove chain.
All suggestion welcome
Thanks

kuksul08 · Oct 15, 2015

remove the giant nut with a huge wrench

HyperMikeNL · Oct 16, 2015

kuksul08 said:
remove the giant nut with a huge wrench

Don't forget to put it back using the proper torque (dunno how much though).

appliance821 · Oct 16, 2015

First remove the safety clip. Note there are 2 holes in the axle and nut that realign when you put the clip back on. I also use a small zip-tie on the clip after reattaching.

to get the nut off (46mm) you might need a breaker bar - it is a *****. When putting it back on use an anti seize grease. The torque is - I think - 230nm - good luck getting there. I tightened it (really tight - but couldn't get the torque wrench - 1/2 inch with 24" handle-to click - tight enough though) until the holes lined up and put in the pin.

No need to remove the exhaust.

ferdi · Oct 16, 2015

appliance821 said:
First remove the safety clip. Note there are 2 holes in the axle and nut that realign when you put the clip back on. I also use a small zip-tie on the clip after reattaching.

to get the nut off (46mm) you might need a breaker bar - it is a *****. When putting it back on use an anti seize grease. The torque is - I think - 230nm - good luck getting there. I tightened it (really tight - but couldn't get the torque wrench - 1/2 inch with 24" handle-to click - tight enough though) until the holes lined up and put in the pin.

No need to remove the exhaust.

no, the torque is 176nm

appliance821 · Oct 16, 2015

ferdi said:
no, the torque is 176nm

This is from the manual:

Fit the spacer (4) with the tapered side facing the wheel, and washer (3); apply the recommended grease to the nut (2) and start nut (2) by hand.
Tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 230 Nm Â± 10%, checking that the hole on the nut is aligned with one of those on the wheel shaft.
Fit the clip (1), fitting the end into one of the holes in the shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.

where did you get your torque value? The manual isn't always correct but that's what I went with.

ferdi · Oct 17, 2015

appliance821 said:
This is from the manual:

Fit the spacer (4) with the tapered side facing the wheel, and washer (3); apply the recommended grease to the nut (2) and start nut (2) by hand.
Tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 230 Nm Â± 10%, checking that the hole on the nut is aligned with one of those on the wheel shaft.
Fit the clip (1), fitting the end into one of the holes in the shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.

where did you get your torque value? The manual isn't always correct but that's what I went with.

i have it from the workshop/repair manual

but just have seen i used the wrong entry.

you are copmpletly right, it's 230 nm Â± 10% , as you have written.

AussieHyper · Oct 17, 2015

And the back brake will hold the wheel as you undo and tighten the nut.....I've watched the guys when they replaced my tires recently. Not sure if these pictures are of any use.....but....

Yama Hu · Oct 21, 2015

I don't have torque key .. will be ok if I only use regular key and tide it as much as I can ?
Thanks you all for suggestions !!!

ferdi · Oct 21, 2015

Yama Hu said:
I don't have torque key .. will be ok if I only use regular key and tide it as much as I can ?
Thanks you all for suggestions !!!

i would say so.
when i fastened mine, it only clicked at "full throttle", but keep in mind, in fact i am from Austria, but i am not Arnie

.
so, if you look like Mike Tyson, i would not use all my power

appliance821 · Oct 21, 2015

Yama Hu said:
I don't have torque key .. will be ok if I only use regular key and tide it as much as I can ?
Thanks you all for suggestions !!!

If by "key" you mean "wrench" - you might. You have to align the holes in the nut and axle - and if you're using a 24" breaker bar you should be tight enough when that happens. I had a torque wrench and couldn't get to 230nm, but the holes aligned - so far everything seems fine. You'll still have to torque the hell out of it though - and don't forget the grease.

AussieHyper · Oct 21, 2015

For me this is one of those real important stress points on the bike.....I'd prefer to buy the tool and do it correctly.

appliance821 · Oct 21, 2015

AussieHyper said:
For me this is one of those real important stress points on the bike.....I'd prefer to buy the tool and do it correctly.

I bought the tools and with all my might I couldn't get a 1/2" drive, 24" long torque wrench to click at 230nm. But the holes were aligned so in went the safety clip. Not ideal but ....

AussieHyper · Oct 22, 2015

appliance821 said:
I bought the tools and with all my might I couldn't get a 1/2" drive, 24" long torque wrench to click at 230nm. But the holes were aligned so in went the safety clip. Not ideal but ....

Understand what you say and agree that if you get close that's good and your protected with the lock nut.

But everyone seems to think that you can only use a 24 inch torque wrench and I can image that it could be hard to get the 230 nm....so the easy solution is grab a length of water pipe and slip it over the wrench and away you go...ie a bigger lever is all that's needed

just as long as you don't foul the torque mechanism if it's a bar on bar tool.

appliance821 · Oct 22, 2015

AussieHyper said:
Understand what you say and agree that if you get close that's good and your protected with the lock nut.

But everyone seems to think that you can only use a 24 inch torque wrench and I can image that it could be hard to get the 230 nm....so the easy solution is grab a length of water pipe and slip it over the wrench and away you go...ie a bigger lever is all that's needed just as long as you don't foul the torque mechanism if it's a bar on bar tool.

Appreciate the info..

zibbit u2 · Oct 22, 2015

Please ppl don't use a breaker bar on your torque wrenches.. They're not designed or calibrated for that. The torque wrench I use is built by Jet tools, it's a 3 ft click type measured in Ft/lbs.. Even with my tiny arms, I can torque the rear wheel nut by myself using the rear brake to stop the rotation without breaking a sweat.

zippy49 · Oct 27, 2015

appliance821 · Dec 18, 2016

Coming back to this - the manual has 2 values depending on where you look. In the actual wheel removal section the torque is listed at 230 nm, but in the torque value section it is listed at 176nm. 176 is a lot easier - what have people been going with?

This post: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/92-hype...821-rear-wheel-torque-spec-clarification.html settled on 176.

kuksul08 · Dec 18, 2016

I went with 230 initially, and it is a BEAR to get off. Like, really bad. Last time I went with 176. The locking pin still lined up. Felt tight enough. Dunno. How about split the difference and go 200?

BadToTheBown · Dec 19, 2016

If the manual is conflicted on this data point, consider checking with a dealer. If wheels have been coming off using 176, they'll know it better than any of us. If they say 230, you have your answer either way. Please let us know what you find out. I haven't had to take mine off yet.

Rear wheel removing

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