Rear wheel removing

zippy49 · Dec 25, 2016

I have copies of both 2013 and 2014 Service Manuals, and they both show 176 Nm (130 lb.-ft.) for this 38mm nut. But my original list showed 240 Nm (180 lb.-ft.), from the 2013 Owner's Manual. Which had other errors, such as wrong overall dimensions. I probably used the higher spec the first time I changed a tire. The hole still lined up.

A proper 38 mm socket on a 3/4" breaker bar makes removal easy. I have a matching torque wrench, Husky brand, that did not cost more than a tire. Considering what a failure here would mean, that sounds like cheap insurance.

These tools are also very useful when changing tires on my buddy's 848 Streetfighter. On that bike, you have to remove the exhausts. PITA!

appliance821 · Sep 13, 2018

Just to recap on this: The manual says 240 in one place and 176 in another. It's 176nm with moly grease.

RSL · Sep 13, 2018

appliance821 said:
Just to recap on this: The manual says 240 in one place and 176 in another. It's 176nm with moly grease.

Yes, because lubricated torque numbers are 75% of dry.

kuksul08 · Sep 14, 2018

After having my front sprocket nut unscrew itself even unfolding the lock washer after I used moly lube, I'd be very wary of using it. Granted, I was using 60% moly paste. Most moly grease is 3% moly...

I usually used plain bearing grease and tightened to 176Nm

appliance821 · Sep 16, 2018

kuksul08 said:
After having my front sprocket nut unscrew itself even unfolding the lock washer after I used moly lube, I'd be very wary of using it. Granted, I was using 60% moly paste. Most moly grease is 3% moly...

I usually used plain bearing grease and tightened to 176Nm

I haven't had your issues though I've double checked based on your experience. My guess is any grease will act as a thread locker. I'd just be concerned about regular grease holding grit and dirt and getting it in the threads.Maybe something to be aware of anyhow.

gatdammit · Sep 17, 2018

I will note that I bought a bargain double-sided rear axle nut socket on flea bay, and it was useless. Clearances were off and just wouldn't make a good purchase on either nut. Grabbed slightly better on the Ducabike replacement nuts I used for reassembly. Hope the 3x more expensive speedymoto socket works better. I have to pull the wheel again to replace cush drives
*side note: I installed a full sprocket kit from sprocketcenter.com I opted for all the gucci add-ons, including their poly cush drives w/ titanium hardware. I used the factory 48 NM on the cush securing hardware. They mushroomed slightly and started contacting the swingarm adjuster cog, chewing them up. I've got a new set coming but they haven't given me a recommended torque spec.

appliance821 · Sep 17, 2018

Yeah - my aluminum socket rounded pretty fast- I got a steel doublesided and it's much better. That rear sprocket will look good. I'm under the impression that the poly pucks are harder so there might be a little more driveline harshness. I'd be interested in hearing your results.

saken · Sep 17, 2018

176 nm for the small axle bikes such as the 796 and 821s. 230nm for the larger axle bikes 1098 etc. The nut will tighten more over time. Anti seize on the nut is best, but I just used normal marine grease as I change my tires often. Never had a problem with it. Will need a LONG breaker bar, proper long torque wrench. I would not just guess the nm by tighting the nut with a breaker bar. From 0-25nm you can somewhat guess accurately. But over 100nms your not going to guess anywhere close. Buy the torque wrench. Especially, if your going to do your own tire changes. Also, buy the double sided socket (Steel only) for the nuts. Rear wheel (Right)46mm and left side is 41mm and front wheel is 30mm. I usually tighten rear around 176nm to 180nm, align the holes for the clip, then I mark the nut/wheel with a paint pen. Do some hard accelerations around the block and stop to check the nut to see if it moved.

appliance821 · Sep 17, 2018

saken said:
176 nm for the small axle bikes such as the 796 and 821s. 230nm for the larger axle bikes 1098 etc. The nut will tighten more over time. Anti seize on the nut is best, but I just used normal marine grease as I change my tires often. Never had a problem with it. Will need a LONG breaker bar, proper long torque wrench. I would not just guess the nm by tighting the nut with a breaker bar. From 0-25nm you can somewhat guess accurately. But over 100nms your not going to guess anywhere close. Buy the torque wrench. Especially, if your going to do your own tire changes. Also, buy the double sided socket (Steel only) for the nuts. Rear wheel (Right)46mm and left side is 41mm and front wheel is 30mm. I usually tighten rear around 176nm to 180nm, align the holes for the clip, then I mark the nut/wheel with a paint pen. Do some hard accelerations around the block and stop to check the nut to see if it moved.

If you get the clips in the hole and bind the ends with wire or a zip tie, I don't see how the nut will ever move, but I guess it doesn't hurt. The moly grease recommended is not anti seize, and I'm not sure that's the right stuff. Yamalube, or another similar moly grease is what' I think is on their mind. Probably not a big deal for these clipped nuts, but for the brake bolts etc.. it needs to be right. I have some nasty high concentrate stuff - seems to to the job.

gatdammit · Sep 18, 2018

I used machine grease from a local bike shop. Big tub that resembles moly but didn't see those tell-tale flakes in it. My cheap rear socket just wouldn't fully seat - had some clearances issues on the inner well. I slip marked them and only the smaller side nut moved very slightly after a couple days on the road, and I always ride her hard.

Really concerned about the cush pucks. Can't have this happen again. I wrestling with putting the OEM's back in. Of note, OEM pucks have metal race surrounding the bearing. Fancy poly ones did not.

Rear wheel removing

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