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Replacing levers "“ how difficult?

Joined Jun 2015
51 Posts | 0+
Czech Republic
I have ordered some nice-looking chinese levers as I wanted adjustability for both clutch and brake (have somewhat embarassingly small hands), but I am not sure I should try replacing them myself.

Out of you who have replaced (or removed for whatever reason) the original levers, would you suggest me to try even if a) I am probably the most clumsy person you've ever come across b) have just some basic equipment c) the bike is still under warranty?

Looking at the lever assembly I can't see any obvious catch but I don't want to end up with partially dismantled and unridable bike in my garage.

Thanks for any info or hints.
 
I have ordered some nice-looking chinese levers as I wanted adjustability for both clutch and brake (have somewhat embarassingly small hands), but I am not sure I should try replacing them myself.

Out of you who have replaced (or removed for whatever reason) the original levers, would you suggest me to try even if a) I am probably the most clumsy person you've ever come across b) have just some basic equipment c) the bike is still under warranty?

Looking at the lever assembly I can't see any obvious catch but I don't want to end up with partially dismantled and unridable bike in my garage.

Thanks for any info or hints.

changng levers is quite easy, not much skills needed.

I had a pair of "expensive" levers on my Guzzi Stelvio and have already the second cheap chineses pair (after an accident with a car) on my Honda MSX.
Both versions worked good and i like them very much.
So i also ordered cheap chinese ones for my HS, shorties.
Clutch lever works fine, but brake lever does not press brake light switch with the original little rubberplug.
so i dismounted them and use the original levers again.

hope yours fit better.
 
Only hard part of changing out the levers is finding that little plug (plastic?) that activates the break light switch after the tiny little thing falls to the ground....
 
The only small struggle I had was getting the clutch cable back in place. It's also a good time to lube the cable at the lever-people have reported snapping at that point.
 
They are easy to replace removing the screw marked by the blue arrow, but a common mistake it's to keep the screw marked with the green arrow too tight, it must have about 2-3 mm "free" between the screw and the "clutch piston"? (I'm not sure about its name in English heheh), because when the bike get running temperature the clutch circuit liquid will expand and this 2-3 mm will disappear and if this "free space" does not exist the clucth will be always pushed.

45748d1238625026-break-lever-clutch-lever-adjustment-clutchlever.jpg
 
They are easy to replace removing the screw marked by the blue arrow, but a common mistake it's to keep the screw marked with the green arrow too tight, it must have about 2-3 mm "free" between the screw and the "clutch piston"? (I'm not sure about its name in English heheh), because when the bike get running temperature the clutch circuit liquid will expand and this 2-3 mm will disappear and if this "free space" does not exist the clucth will be always pushed.

45748d1238625026-break-lever-clutch-lever-adjustment-clutchlever.jpg

I'll take a look at this but the Hyperstrada/motard 2013 +, unlike your picture, doesn't have a hydraulic clutch. The adjuster at the lever is a screw and barrel. I adjusted this for some play and then further adjusted it until neutral was easy to engage, that seemed to do the trick.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. The clutch lever wasn't indeed difficult, but I am putting the original back since the new one doesn't operate the switch that allows to start the engine with a gear engaged. I have already been through a few embarrassing moments with stalled emgine in front of some traffic and you know how difficult is the neutral to find if you need it.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. The clutch lever wasn't indeed difficult, but I am putting the original back since the new one doesn't operate the switch that allows to start the engine with a gear engaged. I have already been through a few embarrassing moments with stalled emgine in front of some traffic and you know how difficult is the neutral to find if you need it.

That's curious because I got some ebay cheapies and they work fine - didn't seem like anything special. sorry to hear it.
 
The ebay site posted in the other lever thread was ****. Adjustable/ short/ standard/ break-away; color match to your liking. They took a long time to ship from Asia but were designed for the actuator plug on the motard/strada.

I got the shorty/non-break away set because I'm a 2 finger lever guy and they should be protected by handguard in a fall. The adjustables just looked odd to me. Quality is excellent for the price with premium fixtures and extra material cut out almost every where it can be. Very pleased.
 
chinese levers clutch

Just a heads up i got the chinese levers and also had problems with not starting in gear. There is a little metal clip that you need to bend out and it will fix all problems. Should be able to search for it in this forum.

BTW thanks everyone for all the good information. I have found alot of good info on this site
 
Just a heads up i got the chinese levers and also had problems with not starting in gear. There is a little metal clip that you need to bend out and it will fix all problems. Should be able to search for it in this forum.

BTW thanks everyone for all the good information. I have found alot of good info on this site

Can you elaborate? I'm having a lot of trouble finding neutral since installing mine, especially when engine is cold. Lever end slack adjuster doesn't help much. I think I can feel it biting a little even in neutral. Never touched the frame side adjuster.
 
Just a warning to everyone. We are still not sure how this could have happened but it did so please take note.

When I released the clutch cable on mine to install a new lever the clutch arm rotated out of sync with the push rod inside the clutch case. This resulted in the clutch throwout being locked up and the only way to fix was removing the clutch cover and redoing the internals.

My suggestion, just to be safe, is to tie up the clutch arm down at the case with a couple of tie wraps or some safety wire so that it cannot rotate backwards from where the cable holds it.

I have not heard of this happening to anyone else but it did happen at least once. :eek:

Marc