That clutch again...

kuksul08 · Jan 10, 2017

monocog007 said:
To use a judder spring though, we'd need an extra friction plate to match the outer diameter of the judder spring, correct?

This is true. I think the outer-most clutch disk is different ID to fit the spring and spring seat.

Still baffled why they didn't use a judder spring originally. It probably has to do with the "easy pull" clutch only providing a very small displacement at the clutch pack, so by combining the two you end up requiring a very careful clutch adjustment and perhaps not complete disengagement. Who knows... just guessing.

fredgilb · Jan 10, 2017

It's not a spring. It's there to position the narrower plate properly.

kuksul08 · Jan 10, 2017

fredgilb said:
It's not a spring. It's there to position the narrower plate properly.

Like this, no?

Judder springs function like a belleville washer

Unless Ducati did something weird and funky with a plain washer. Don't see why though.

zippy49 · Jan 11, 2017

That looks correct, Kuksul. I seriously doubt that any dealer could supply those rings by themselves. I'm just going to save up some money and have the dealer install that 2015 clutch pack with my 9K service. After reviewing the posts on the other Ducati forum, it seems that nothing else is needed. It will add $700 to the service bill, but I'm keeping this bike for a while.

Heck, I've spent more on our 390 Duke, and it only has 1700 miles on it...

monocog007 · Jan 11, 2017

My plan is to try and find a lightly used 2016 clutch pack & parts, and go for the full upgrade. With enough of the parts, it should bolt in. If I don't find those by the time I need a clutch, I'll go the 2015 route.

I would really like to install the Ducabike clear clutch cover & hydraulic clutch, but that is way out of my budget.

appliance821 · Jan 11, 2017

2015 hypermotard clutch pack on ebay KIT FRIZIONE COMPLETA DUCATI HYPERMOTARD 821 2015 | eBay

My clutch isn't fully disengaging - cable adjusted correctly. Dunno - has to go in for valves so we'll see. Any suggestions?

kuksul08 · Jan 11, 2017

appliance821 said:
2015 hypermotard clutch pack on ebay KIT FRIZIONE COMPLETA DUCATI HYPERMOTARD 821 2015 | eBay

My clutch isn't fully disengaging - cable adjusted correctly. Dunno - has to go in for valves so we'll see. Any suggestions?

even with zero slack in the cable it still won't disengage?

appliance821 · Jan 11, 2017

kuksul08 said:
even with zero slack in the cable it still won't disengage?

That's right - I did try that. Then adjusted at the mid adjuster so the lever adjuster is right on the money.

It's partially disengaged but spinning the rear wheel is tough. Put it in neutral and it spins easily.

zippy49 · Jan 12, 2017

That's not unusual when the engine is cold, there will be some oil drag. I'll bet the old dry clutches were better this way.

By the time I pay for shipping, that clutch assembly will cost as much as the plate stack from my dealer. That's not even counting my 10% discount for buying the bike there.

appliance821 · Jan 13, 2017

Well, that's good to hear, but it seems tough on the starter etc.. I'll get more info from the dealership and post it.

zippy49 · Jan 14, 2017

You do have it in neutral when starting, yes? Should not be any load from the clutch dragging.

gatdammit · Jan 14, 2017

When I went through my clutch adjustment issues, I could usually only slip in/out of neutral when the engine was off or cold. I could feel it dragging with the clutch engaged and confirmed it while testing on the center stand. I just had to keep messing with the mid and lever adjusters and finally got it back in spec.

This all started as I continually adjusted the clutch to my preferred slack setting. I hated the stock setting.

appliance821 · Jan 15, 2017

zippy49 said:
You do have it in neutral when starting, yes? Should not be any load from the clutch dragging.

Usually, clutch in in first gear. Until I get more feedback on the drag thing - and it might just be the way things are as you mentioned , I'll endeavor to start in neutral. Probably good practice anyway.

zippy49 · Jan 16, 2017

appliance821 said:
Usually, clutch in in first gear. Until I get more feedback on the drag thing - and it might just be the way things are as you mentioned , I'll endeavor to start in neutral. Probably good practice anyway.

Not sure why anyone would start in first. Some sort of theft deterrent? Starting in gear would certainly produce more wear on the clutch, etc.

Having ridden kick start only bikes ever since I learned to ride, leaving (and starting) them in neutral has been ingrained. Unless it is parked on some steep slope, which has not been an issue as I feel it move as soon as I lift it from the sidestand and can grab the front brake.

appliance821 · Jan 16, 2017

zippy49 said:
Not sure why anyone would start in first. Some sort of theft deterrent? Starting in gear would certainly produce more wear on the clutch, etc.

Having ridden kick start only bikes ever since I learned to ride, leaving (and starting) them in neutral has been ingrained. Unless it is parked on some steep slope, which has not been an issue as I feel it move as soon as I lift it from the sidestand and can grab the front brake.

Dunno - I'm rarely in neutral, and first is where I end up when I stop. Either this massive clutch drag is new, or I didn't notice it, so I'm definitely starting in neutral now.

I did have an old BSA, but my mind have blocked out the pain from that POS.

gatdammit · Jan 16, 2017

Mines always in Neutral because I fire it up and walk away while it warms up. Or, fire it up while I don my gear. I also usually need to move my bike around in my small garage after shutting down.

Dunno. I always keep mine on the center stand so neutral works for me.

appliance821 · Jan 17, 2017

sounds good. I live in the city and park outside so things, for me are different. Don't warm up on the stand, as much as let the idle settle, ride slowly for a few blocks to let things warm up on the road.
Anyway - this is maybe a bit of a hijack. I just noticed the drag in conjunction with recent jerkiness of engagement. Might be unrelated, as I also just changed to 10-40 for the winter.

I'll have the dealer check the drag, and I'll change the oil and see if engagement smooth out some.

Up the road I'll be looking at the 2015 clutch pack/spring - and I promise - neutral starts from now on.

gatdammit · Jan 18, 2017

Every time I took mine in for service, the tech's reset the clutch to stock spec. It pissed me off but is where you need to start.

zippy49 · Jan 21, 2017

appliance821 said:
I did have an old BSA, but my mind have blocked out the pain from that POS.

Yes, aka 'B*st*rd Stopped Again.' Then you understand why I shift to neutral at every stop light. Force of habit from riding old bikes with dragging clutches, worn carbs, and magneto ignition. Stalling the engine is a problem, as re-starting does not always happen on the first kick. Or second....

OTOH, sometimes they start first kick, idle perfectly, and when I ride one I often get this feeling that I'm a little kid again and getting away with something I shouldn't. That's worth it!

toeslider · Jan 21, 2017

Sorry, excuse the brag, but the 939 and I got stuck in mad summer beach road traffic yesterday (it's summer down here and the surf was pumping), and the engine temp went up to 107 degrees and the fan was working overtime. Yet the clutch performed beautifully as I trickled the bike along at walking pace for more than 15 minutes through a coastal town. If I had an 821, I'd be stumping up the bucks for a 939 clutch...

That clutch again...

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