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What's this actuator for?

Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
More carnage...I broke a nipple on this actuator during recent remove/install. It's mounted to bottom left of airbox. The broken 1/4" nipple is on the very bottom and not visible in this diagram, it's a "T" junction. It has a vac line that I'm pretty sure is capped with maybe a resistor. I epoxied it but off idle rpm stabilization is just a little sketchy and assume it's this T-actuator.
 

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I think that is related to the charcoal canister / secondary air injection part of the emissions system. I recall leaving this thing connected despite removing the lines and capping the vacuum ports.
 
It is the AIS system. I have a AIS delete kit sitting on my bench to install in the next few days. It included air plugs, block off plates and a wiring plug to tricked the system into thinking it's still installed. SmartMoto Electronics
 
Actually, I was wrong in my case. It looks very similar to the system that sucks fumes from the charcoal canister into the cylinders which is what I was thinking of / removed. I still have a cat in my pipe so I left the AIS in place.
 
Clutching out non-aggressively is a little more sluggish, like I stalled for the 1st time in years. After it's spun it, feels normal. Idle is a little more bouncy but follows a cadence.

Dude, $50 for AIS delete! Never heard of this but read the purpose. Honestly, I kinda like the exhaust popping but it says full exhaust bene's and I definitely want to free up space under the tank.

Any other bene's? Hope it doesn't mess up my Kuksol RB tune. I'm not talented or patient enough to make my own tune.
 
I dont know for sure but I'm pretty sure it messes with the o2 readings. I'm sure the ecu is designed to compensate for the change but I'm going to get my bike Dyno tuned once I do velocity stacks and I'm wanting to get a solid reading. I was also thinking about adding the wide band O2 data logger and messing around with that. If the AIS messes with the O2 then the readings would be slightly off...I think. I think this is going to be one of those bikes I just had on to and continuously modify, change and rebuild as needed. It's fun and it's cool, it also turns heads. What more do you want in a bike. If I want/need something else I will finally become a 2 bike guy(never thought I would ever say that).
 
Clutching out non-aggressively is a little more sluggish, like I stalled for the 1st time in years. After it's spun it, feels normal. Idle is a little more bouncy but follows a cadence.

Have you have your TPS reset post tune / recently? Mine's been doing this a bit since I put a tune on it and from what I hear these are symptoms of the TPS needing a reset after changes to the ECU map. It idles pretty smooth when warm aside from the usual v-twin quirkiness but if I clutch out under engine braking it will nearly or actually stall. Solution is to add throttle a smidge under engine braking and then pull the clutch but I'm gonna see if I can find time to have the dealer do the reset.
 
Thanks, Nate. It's the last thing on my list. New coil plugs, spark plugs, intake manifolds...still CEL "ERRORS" and stumble in 2nd. At least my quick shifter works....
 
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Araitim, you know of any downsides to the actuator delete? Just did my first fill-up and lost about 10 miles off my range. I'm sure it's because the mixture is off, like an EGR or PCV problem on a car. The line in from rear of actuator is partially kinked, too.
 
I do not. My understanding is that it is purely emmisions related but I don't know of any down side. I is supposed to lessen the ammount of popping from the exhaust. It is also my understanding that if you still have the catalytic converter you should not remove the AIS.
 
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