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Front brake vibration / tried everything

is that piston got a crack in it, or is it just crap build up? needs a good clean either way
It has like a small chip or hit.
I will give it a clean

I read yesterday that if the disk is hitting the caliper it self means that the fork need to be aligned again.
There are a lot off videos showing how to align the fork i gave it a try yesterday and i used some break cleaner on the caliper.
Surprisingly 80% of the vibration disappeared!!
Todays i will try to align the fork and move the disk away from the caliper to check if i can solve the vibration/pulsing problem 100%.

I think after my trial yesterday the disk was moved less than 1 mm.
 
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I'd be worried that your replacement discs had the wrong offset or the diameter is wrong, or both. I've never had a wheel go back on the spindle with the correct spacers and not have the caliper centred automatically. Someone has made a mess of your bike, I'm afraid...
 
The fork now is aligned and the disk is not hitting the caliper.
But still have the same ****** vibration/pulsing problem. I will install another set of disks to eliminate the disks from the equation.
 
Do the discs move ("float") if you give them a tug? They should have just a little bit of play. Did you have them turned (new surface) during this endeavor? The first gen OEM brake/disc combo were prone to squeal and chatter that could be felt through the controls. Most of us went with new EBC pads, "HH", if I recall. Other tricks were to take a degreaser and brillo pad to the disc surface, oil the bobbins, and add some vibe compound to the discs when installing.

If all that is checked, you got something deeper going on.
 
Do the discs move ("float") if you give them a tug? They should have just a little bit of play. Did you have them turned (new surface) during this endeavor? The first gen OEM brake/disc combo were prone to squeal and chatter that could be felt through the controls. Most of us went with new EBC pads, "HH", if I recall. Other tricks were to take a degreaser and brillo pad to the disc surface, oil the bobbins, and add some vibe compound to the discs when installing.

If all that is checked, you got something deeper going on.
I tried to oil the bobbins several time to free them but i couldn't move them by hand, and when i try to move disks forth and back it moves a little bit but with excessive force.

Knowing that i always clear the disks very well after using any kind of oil around them.
 
I don't know if this helps but I was speaking with a Beemer guy I know (Udo Gietl) and he also rides a Duc and he told me about the pulsating problem he has with his, said he went to wave rotors and problem is gone, just a data point, hope it helps...
 
I don't know if this helps but I was speaking with a Beemer guy I know (Udo Gietl) and he also rides a Duc and he told me about the pulsating problem he has with his, said he went to wave rotors and problem is gone, just a data point, hope it helps...

Thanks for your reply
Any suggestions on good wave rotor?
 
I have always been a fan of Braking USA rotors. I have run them In the past and then held up nicely. If I were to do something aftermarket today it would probably be one of the T drive rotors, the Braking Barfly(the SK2 is a great option too), one of Braketech's offerings or the fancy rotors with the holes machined at a slant(TK Dischi fresno).
 
Aren't the wave designed rotors mostly for heat dissipation? I would try different pad compound first. Easier, cheaper. If you do go for new rotors, keep in mind they'll probably last longer than the bike, so worthwhile high-end investment.
 
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Before you pay out for new discs, you really should have a go at loosening the bobbins, if you haven't done so. It does make a big difference to the ability of the pads to follow the discs, or vice versa! Doing that, banished vibration on our ST3.
You need something like a flat wood-working chisel or a sharpened screwdriver to get underneath the bobbin springs and/or the retainers and just ease them out a touch all round. The discs will truly float then but still be perfectly safe. If that doesn't work, go ahead with your check-book!

Nick
 
Before you pay out for new discs, you really should have a go at loosening the bobbins, if you haven't done so. It does make a big difference to the ability of the pads to follow the discs, or vice versa! Doing that, banished vibration on our ST3.
You need something like a flat wood-working chisel or a sharpened screwdriver to get underneath the bobbin springs and/or the retainers and just ease them out a touch all round. The discs will truly float then but still be perfectly safe. If that doesn't work, go ahead with your check-book!

Nick
Thank you nick this will be my final try before buying new wave rotors.
Btw the retainers are flexible so when i bent one side it goes to its original position. I tried this with a small sharp knife.
I will remove the wheel to do properly.
 
They just need a little more pressure to effect a bend. A hand-held knife won't do much good, as you say. Use a small hammer and chisel carefully, and it does make it much easier if the brakes and forks are not in the way!
 
They just need a little more pressure to effect a bend. A hand-held knife won't do much good, as you say. Use a small hammer and chisel carefully, and it does make it much easier if the brakes and forks are not in the way!

Today i disassembled the front wheel took off the disks and loosen the bobbins using a chisel.
Now the bobbins are spinning freely and i believe that they are too lose now i can hear them moving while driving at low speed. Anyhow i did a short test drive and still have that vibration/ pulsing that the front fairing shake a lot under breaking.
 
Sorry to hear that that didn't fix your problem. If the loose bobbins worry you, I would expect it should be possible to reverse that action to a degree by using a bit of pipe that fits around the bobbin and giving it a smart tap to flatten the retainer and springs, especially if you can rest the back of the bobbin on an anvil.

Have you or anyone else actually tested the discs for run-out, either by eye or by using a dial gauge? If they are running true, it suggests that the surface has a deposit on it that causes a change in friction and grip. This can definitely happen if fresh pads are held against the disc at standstill after strong braking. The only way to cure that is to use abrasive paper to thoroughly scour the metal. If the disc/discs do show significant run-out , the likely reason is that the mounting surfaces are faulty.

As a final test, why not try to find someone local to you with the same bike and borrow their front wheel? I don't know how many Ducatis share the same front wheel, but maybe someone here does.

Nick
 
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