Recommended gearing?

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Now have my 14T front sprocket.
Is it easy to change over ?

I'm guessing loosen off chain and then undo nut , replace sprocket , torque nut , tighten chain again ?

Sorry daft questions but first time I will have done this job
 
I've never changed a sprocket unless changing chain too, so interested to know the answer to this.
 
I'm thinking of going to a 14t front, easy to change too. Bikes done 11500 miles and the chain has hardly worn at all. I do lubricate it after most rides so this helps.
 
Bike has done just over 4000 miles
Chain always been well lubricated and appears in good order still

so should be ok to go for it you think ?
 
willmac said:
Now have my 14T front sprocket.
Is it easy to change over ?

I'm guessing loosen off chain and then undo nut , replace sprocket , torque nut , tighten chain again ?

Sorry daft questions but first time I will have done this job
Click to expand...

Yes. I would recommend a new o-ring that goes behind the sprocket spacer when you do this job. It is easy, cheap, and will save you a lot of hassle if it decides to leak once you reassemble. The o-rings tend to harden over time due to the heat.

Remove sprocket, clean the spacer well. Grease the countershaft seal. Install and grease new o-ring. Torque to... 150ft-lbs I think (will have to check... it's a high torque spec).
 
DucRento said:
Why are you guys messing with the gearing? I have changed the gearing on my other Duc's as they were very long and it transformed them, but I find the Hyper has the most practical gearing, especially for town use out of any Duc I have ever ridden.

R
Click to expand...

I agree. All the other Duc's I have had needed 2 to 3 teeth up in the back. I resist going down in the front as it induces more chain wear. The Hyper seems to be geared correctly from the factory which is a shock from normal. Ride it for a while and see how you like it before changing anything. :D

Marc
 
kuksul08 said:
Yes. I would recommend a new o-ring that goes behind the sprocket spacer when you do this job. It is easy, cheap, and will save you a lot of hassle if it decides to leak once you reassemble. The o-rings tend to harden over time due to the heat.

Remove sprocket, clean the spacer well. Grease the countershaft seal. Install and grease new o-ring. Torque to... 150ft-lbs I think (will have to check... it's a high torque spec).
Click to expand...

Many thanks for that info kuksul08. Something I wouldn't have thought of to change the O ring
Sorry to be a pain , but would you have the part number handy for the O ring ?
I do have the bike parts list but just not with me offshore at the moment. Would like to order and have it ready for when I get home :)
Cheers
 
willmac said:
Many thanks for that info kuksul08. Something I wouldn't have thought of to change the O ring
Sorry to be a pain , but would you have the part number handy for the O ring ?
I do have the bike parts list but just not with me offshore at the moment. Would like to order and have it ready for when I get home :)
Cheers
Click to expand...

I wouldn't bother changing the seal with only 4k miles on the clock!!
Leave well alone until chain replacement required.

It's hardly run in!!!
 
mentalist said:
I wouldn't bother changing the seal with only 4k miles on the clock!!
Leave well alone until chain replacement required.

It's hardly run in!!!
Click to expand...

Yep good point mentalist.
I'm in Asia , so obviously everything runs pretty hot here. Ambient temp is now up to about 38º. Get's to 42º in summer. So wonder maybe if it would be worthwhile changing O ring , even though there are not too many miles on bike.
She does run pretty hot
 
The seal is probably fine. The o-ring though - it gets compressed during install, and when you loosen it just a little bit to change the sprocket, it could leak. It takes literally 10 seconds to change it, and it costs $2. Part number 46320537A

But that's just me :)
 
kuksul08 said:
The seal is probably fine. The o-ring though - it gets compressed during install, and when you loosen it just a little bit to change the sprocket, it could leak. It takes literally 10 seconds to change it, and it costs $2. Part number 46320537A

But that's just me :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the part number sir ;)
 
Can anyone who has done the 14t sprocket change comment on how the bike rides at highway speeds, say 110km/70mph and up?
I like the sound of the bike being more rideable around town but i do a bit of highway riding as well and as it is now i find myself searching for a 7th gear sometimes, i dont want to make that worse.
 
adm said:
Can anyone who has done the 14t sprocket change comment on how the bike rides at highway speeds, say 110km/70mph and up?
I like the sound of the bike being more rideable around town but i do a bit of highway riding as well and as it is now i find myself searching for a 7th gear sometimes, i dont want to make that worse.
Click to expand...

I will be putting mine on soon and report back.
 
Meh, it's more annoying at highway speeds. Luckily on 1/6 of my journey as at them.

I would never give up my 14T front unless I was ONLY doing highway riding. Anywhere else, it shines like a golden Buddha.
 
For those that just want a little change has anyone found a 46 rear? I haven't been able to find one but haven't spent a ton of time looking yet.
 
Seems ideally geared for the street - no need to shift to second for sharp city corners -take the turn and short shift up to second. Jerdog is an offroad rider - for that, I definitely think the gearing has to be changed.
 
I like the 14t up front for the most part but there are time off road I wish 1st gear was lower but I don't think I will be adding teeth to the rear sprocket. Running on the freeway around 80 mph with the 14t does push the RPMs up higher than I'd like but its a give and take. Mostly I stay off the freeway.
 

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