What'd you do to your Hyperstrada today?

zippy49 · Feb 20, 2014

mentalist said:
Zippy, i've replaced an indicator bulb on mine, lots of bulbs are offset these days, I managed to get some from ebay for a Â£1.00

BAU15s 12v 10w Indicator Orange bulb (off set pins | eBay

Must be some EU nonsense. There is no reason for the pins to be offset on a single filament bulb. I seriously doubt that any automobile uses these pathetic little 10W things. When I have a burnt out bulb I need a replacement NOW. Not next week. They are not available OTC in our local auto parts stores, and my Ducati shop is 40 miles away down one of the most crowded freeways in the state. This is a safety issue!

On the subject of mounting auxiliary lamps...using those convenient radiator cover wellnuts is dangerous. They are only 5mm, and a simple tipover could ruin the radiator. I'm going to figure out something better.

gatdammit · Feb 20, 2014

I used a 20mm bolt that equalled the depth of stock bolt after spacers and bracket thickness. I used washers that sank into radiator bolt washer indent plus loctite. They've been through a full week of driving and jolts. Haven't moved a bit. They're pretty light aluminum construction.

As for tip over damage, well...the $40 lamp will be the least of my worries if it's serious enough. Could damage the radiator but they fold inward on the mount and it's likely they would tuck under weight of bike and then would almost be flush with slider/fairing.

It is a very good location with easy mounting. If you go higher, probably looking at fork mounting, then you have clearance issues as you sweep bars. I'm not cutting plastic to mount.

StefanR · Feb 20, 2014

gatdammit said:
StefanR, need some help with Moto LED install.

1. Where did you splice into high-beam wire? At the rear of headlight housing?
2. Where did you ground the lamps?
3. Did you install a relay? I see what looks like a relay box just aft of your lamps in-line with the wire. Mine didn't come with one and since I'm piggy-backing off high-beam and it's a relatively short length, didn't think I needed relay's.
4. The lamps have built in overheat protection. Did you install a fuse anyway?
5. Are there actual positive & negative leads? I know with some driving lamps that it doesn't matter.

The lamps are very good quality for the money but I didn't get any instructions included. There website is just a market with no manuals or details on the wiring.

1. I took apart the connector that fits in the back of the headlight housing. The connector has 4 wires, high, low, ground and parking. I connected one extra wire to the high beam (yellow/grey) and one extra wire to the ground (black) by brazing. See first picture. Maybe it is easier for you to take off the isolation of the harness and connect the extra wire there. I also used extra waterproof connectors to make it look nice. Attached them to the frame with melting glue. See second picture.
2. Se above
3. No relay installed. As you know I am installing a Xenon projector kit and relay for that. That means I will only stress the original high beam wire with 60W for the led lamps. The box after the lamps is a ferrite core to avoid radio interference. I have a radio in my helmet.
4. As I connected them to the high beam, there is a fuse. The fuse is in the front fuse box, and is 10A. 12V*10A=120W. If you want to flash with your high beam, the total current will be about 10A. (55W(low)+60W(high)+30W+30W(led)+parking+rear). I did change it to 15 A to be on the safe side.
5. I think there is. Wrong connected = no light. Just try.

dragoontwo · Feb 20, 2014

dragoontwo said:
Did you replace the bolts with shorter ones? If so what length and pitch?

To quote myself, I took my spacers off today. Instead of getting shorter bolts, I just reinstalled the bolts from the bottom. There's enough threaded portion for this to work.

gatdammit · Feb 20, 2014

StefanR said:
1. I took apart the connector that fits in the back of the headlight housing. The connector has 4 wires, high, low, ground and parking. I connected one extra wire to the high beam (yellow/grey) and one extra wire to the ground (black) by brazing. See first picture. Maybe it is easier for you to take off the isolation of the harness and connect the extra wire there. I also used extra waterproof connectors to make it look nice. Attached them to the frame with melting glue. See second picture.
2. Se above
3. No relay installed. As you know I am installing a Xenon projector kit and relay for that. That means I will only stress the original high beam wire with 60W for the led lamps. The box after the lamps is a ferrite core to avoid radio interference. I have a radio in my helmet.
4. As I connected them to the high beam, there is a fuse. The fuse is in the front fuse box, and is 10A. 12V*10A=120W. If you want to flash with your high beam, the total current will be about 10A. (55W(low)+60W(high)+30W+30W(led)+parking+rear). I did change it to 15 A to be on the safe side.
5. I think there is. Wrong connected = no light. Just try.

Thanks a lot, Stefan. I was really good with stereo's back in the day, but this did not translate to sound general auto electrical knowledge.

Last question: you kept factory high beam fuse slot but upgraded to 15A? Want to be sure you didn't mean you added a stand-alone fuse in the empty slot in forward fuse box.

Nice job. Love bi-xenon projector, too.

StefanR · Feb 20, 2014

gatdammit said:
Thanks a lot, Stefan. I was really good with stereo's back in the day, but this did not translate to sound general auto electrical knowledge.

Last question: you kept factory high beam fuse slot but upgraded to 15A? Want to be sure you didn't mean you added a stand-alone fuse in the empty slot in forward fuse box.

Nice job. Love bi-xenon projector, too.

I kept factory high beam fuse slot but upgraded to 15A.

Monstard · Feb 21, 2014

dragoontwo said:
Did you replace the bolts with shorter ones? If so what length and pitch?

sorry for the late reply. i also used the original bolts, but cut them to size

dragoontwo said:
To quote myself, I took my spacers off today. Instead of getting shorter bolts, I just reinstalled the bolts from the bottom. There's enough threaded portion for this to work.

dang, if i've known the bolts can be reinstalled without cutting...

now i have to buy a new set of bolts if i plan on putting back the spacers

zippy49 · Feb 21, 2014

gatdammit said:
I used a 20mm bolt that equalled the depth of stock bolt after spacers and bracket thickness. I used washers that sank into radiator bolt washer indent plus loctite. They've been through a full week of driving and jolts. Haven't moved a bit. They're pretty light aluminum construction.

As for tip over damage, well...the $40 lamp will be the least of my worries if it's serious enough. Could damage the radiator but they fold inward on the mount and it's likely they would tuck under weight of bike and then would almost be flush with slider/fairing.

It is a very good location with easy mounting. If you go higher, probably looking at fork mounting, then you have clearance issues as you sweep bars. I'm not cutting plastic to mount.

I'm not willing to try it out, I think even a tipover at a stop would F the rad. Instead, I'm going to use the fairing mounting bolt, just behind the radiator. I'll make a short spacer, and the steel bracket it's fastened to should bend a bit without major damage. Might even make a custom adapter, as the U-bracket looks kind of cheap.

zippy49 · Feb 21, 2014

StefanR said:
I kept factory high beam fuse slot but upgraded to 15A.

Stefan, be aware that fuses are sized according to the wire gauge, not the anticipated load. I would never replace a fuse with a higher rated one without verifying that the wiring will not be overloaded.

gatdammit · Feb 21, 2014

I can easily swap to a bracket mount, like on the Multi, when available. The Multi's lamp bracket uses the radiator bolt for mounting but it is pulled inward to reduce width and the lamps are smaller.

I'm probably going to install an in line fuse for just the lamps.

paulm900 · Feb 21, 2014

Several changes

Hi Chaps,

during the past few days I have done some changes.
Eliminate protectors and add new indicators.
Indicator brackets from Rizoma
Indicators are by Koso with Ducati wire adapters.
Totally plug and play.

When removing protectors you need bar end caps.
Bar end caps by Desmoworld Germany.

Frame plugs installed also by Desmoworld.

JMT red battery installed.

More changes to come soon.

Have fun regards Stephan

dragoontwo · Feb 21, 2014

paulm900 said:
Hi Chaps,

during the past few days I have done some changes.
Eliminate protectors and add new indicators.
Indicator brackets from Rizoma
Indicators are by Koso with Ducati wire adapters.
Totally plug and play.

When removing protectors you need bar end caps.
Bar end caps by Desmoworld Germany.

Frame plugs installed also by Desmoworld.

JMT red battery installed.

More changes to come soon.

Have fun regards Stephan

Would you mind taking a good picture of how the indicator brackets are mounted?

paulm900 · Feb 21, 2014

Bracket

dragoontwo said:
Would you mind taking a good picture of how the indicator brackets are mounted?

There you go

gatdammit · Feb 22, 2014

Paulm900,

Just curious- what didn't you like about the handguards?

StefanR · Feb 22, 2014

zippy49 said:
Stefan, be aware that fuses are sized according to the wire gauge, not the anticipated load. I would never replace a fuse with a higher rated one without verifying that the wiring will not be overloaded.

Zippy, you are right.
0,75 mm2 wire = 10A. I will change back to 10A.

StefanR · Feb 22, 2014

gatdammit said:
Thanks a lot, Stefan. I was really good with stereo's back in the day, but this did not translate to sound general auto electrical knowledge.

Last question: you kept factory high beam fuse slot but upgraded to 15A? Want to be sure you didn't mean you added a stand-alone fuse in the empty slot in forward fuse box.

Nice job. Love bi-xenon projector, too.

Gatdammit.
Zippy are right about not changing the fuse.
0,75 mm2 wire = 10A. Maybe it will work with the 10A fuse. Try.

paulm900 · Feb 22, 2014

Handguards

Hi,

They did interfere with my hands on the side.
I like riding with my hands right at the end of the bar.
Also for me they look to bulky on a slim bike like the Hyper.
But all is reversable if I should change my mind.

Cheers Stephan

Monstard · Feb 24, 2014

naked hand levers

now i know why ducati tried to hide the levers with handguards, they don't look good naked... like an overgrown appendage

now that the hand levers are exposed, you might want to consider changing them to sexier after market ones

406d1393014508-whatd-you-do-your-hyperstrada-today-handprotector.jpg

HyperPedro · Feb 24, 2014

Monstard said:
now i know why ducati tried to hide the levers with handguards, they don't look good naked... like an overgrown appendage now that the hand levers are exposed, you might want to consider changing them to sexier after market ones

That clutch lever looks pretty much like the one my first bike had forty years ago, come to think of it, it's the same as those fitted to 6 of the 7 bikes currently in the shed, the exception being the Monster with it's adjustable item. On the up side, the design is well proven as functional.

gatdammit · Feb 25, 2014

Moto LED Fail

StefanR said:
Gatdammit.
Zippy are right about not changing the fuse.
0,75 mm2 wire = 10A. Maybe it will work with the 10A fuse. Try.

I spent a lot of time doing a clean wiring job.
Spliced into highbeam and ground just aft of headlamp junction plug at back of lamp assembly.
They worked as intended. I then coated jumper connections in hot glue and taped area up good.
Upon finishing, I tried the lamps one last time and nothing. The display was dead and none of the lights worked and I assumed I had drained the battery from running the lights so much. Oh, the start-up servo movement wouldn't fully cycle either.
Trickle charged the battery overnight. Display/lights still dead. Turns out I had blown the display fuse (#2, Fwd Fuse Box).
Replaced fuse (10A) and everything works except lamps. They have so much protection in the circuit board I can't imagine I smoked them, especially off the battery.

Was it the glue? I know it's an insulator but all connections were in place and sound, even soldered lamp wires before adding to splicer. I have to buy a new meter before testing circuits.

What'd you do to your Hyperstrada today?

zippy49

gatdammit

StefanR

dragoontwo

gatdammit

StefanR

Monstard

zippy49

zippy49

gatdammit

paulm900

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dragoontwo

paulm900

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gatdammit

StefanR

StefanR

paulm900

Monstard

HyperPedro

gatdammit

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