This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Adventures in Hypermotard Tuning...

NEE7z10YjVdZ-earBSU1C28p6BcHD37vF11XTwL4r0qwz-80esh1aNUliKyzi8N8wbhO3jh5RFJjdtPEbSd9u69VnRbKsXfJ6IG0EomEQMGsPQY_eugVPvaqSPP7kfjTAyET


:eek:
 

Interesting... didn't realize it was in the manual.

Is this something you have to do for maintenance, or just decided to do? Did you set it to stock settings, or something else?

Looks like a pretty involved process.
 
Interesting... didn't realize it was in the manual.

Is this something you have to do for maintenance, or just decided to do? Did you set it to stock settings, or something else?

Looks like a pretty involved process.
Yes, it is very time consuming. When I was a Porsche tech we paid close attention to this. It made a big difference.
Factory builds tend to rough this in. Unlike earlier engines, the 821 has adjustable sprockets making this possible. The main thing is to get the settings consistent. That's​ what makes the smoothness. You can cheat the timing early or late depending on whether you want more midrange or top end.
Don't forget, valve clearance affects valve timing too.[emoji4]

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Yes, it is very time consuming. When I was a Porsche tech we paid close attention to this. It made a big difference.
Factory builds tend to rough this in. Unlike earlier engines, the 821 has adjustable sprockets making this possible. The main thing is to get the settings consistent. That's​ what makes the smoothness. You can cheat the timing early or late depending on whether you want more midrange or top end.
Don't forget, valve clearance affects valve timing too.[emoji4]

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Cool, good to know! I would assume there is a default position from the factory, maybe marked on the gears themselves?

How far off were yours from the correct setting? I probably won't mess with it because I don't have all these special tools, but it's nice to know it can be done.
 
Do you have any photos of how all the sensors are connected?

It's just the wideband O2 installed in the pipe (pics in 1st post), and then you must tap into the wiring harness to pick up the remaining signals. These 0-5V signals go straight into the logger.

Pin 28 - Grey/Yellow - Ignition Coil 1
Pin 39 - Green/Blue - Throttle Grip
Pin 48 - Orange/Blue - TPS 1

Plus a switched relay for powering the unit only when the engine is running.
 
Just reporting back from a decently long ride today. Put in about 120 miles. The new tune is ridiculously good. I let my friend ride the bike, and he commented on how good it feels now, "like a whole new bike". It's smooth everywhere and makes very linear power. Highway cruising is also much much smoother.

Sufficed to say I'm very happy and it was worth the effort. I'm still going to do a double-check data log but it's feeling pretty great now. It's still the same map I posted above. One thing I did change though was I turned off Average Cell in the map configuration. It gives more precise control over each region rather than averaging.

If anyone wants to try running that map I'd be curious how it feels on your bike.
 
One thing I forgot to mention earlier that I finally figured out how to do without a dyno.

The TPS in the RB software has to be calibrated. The factory values were 0.64 to 4.12V. I plugged it in, ran the "calibrate" routine, and threw my laptop in my backpack. The range actually went from 0.60 to 4.55V, which coincides with my data logger. However some of that is electrical noise, so with some averaging I changed the range to 0.64 MIN, 4.45 MAX. This will make sure the corrections are being applied to the correct TPS/RPM region.
 
Follow up:

I loaded my new fuel maps into the bike. I still need to calibrate the RB throttle voltages, but it's pretty close now.

Wow, huge difference. The bike is just so much smoother all over. It also has a healthy mid-range power bump, and the hesitation/stumble at 6000RPM is completely gone. The power is super smooth, easy to control. Never feels insane or too aggressive, making maintaining throttle in a corner much easier. It pulls linearly to redline.

I am going to do a follow-up/check log for each cylinder to verify the changes are on target, then call it good.

What is redline on the 939 motor?
 
gatdammit did you ever load kuksul's map?

I'm wondering if it can be used as a "generic" map. Seems like even if it was a little rich for a particular bike and not dialed in as accurately as it could be using a data logger and programming directly, that it would still be an improvement on the factory RB tuning. This is based on kuksul's findings showing the leaned out top end with the autotune mode. Anyone else have any thoughts? I'm looking at getting a rapidbike to fix the throttle response and am curious about the implications/improvement of loading this map into the module.
 
Naw. So low on the priority list. Once I take it out of it's shipping crate in my new home I plan to go full-****** on it. I have lot's of drivetrain work soon and the 18K service not far out.
 
I will say the RB alone in autotune has kept me quite happy over stock feel. It's not a bad place to start.
 
MartyGarrison, you mean you had a dynotune done with those mods?
And that fixed the choppy throttle response?
 
Last edited:
For those who don't want to fool around with the Rapidbike, Termi has a dedicated UPMAP device for our bikes now. it plugs into the diagnostic port, and you can buy different pre set maps. First one is free apparently.

http://www.up-map.it/en/t800/
 
Last edited:
×