Ducati Hypermotard 821 clutch fix - the definitive guide
- Thread starter bayotte
- Start date
Joined Dec 2019
69 Posts | 11+
Brasília - DF - Brazil
Thank you Bayotte.
My input after completing the job:
Avoid removing clutch basket by tying the plates together with dental string. Remove before fully compressing the springs.
Use long M5 bolts to pull the springs down until two of the standard ones reach.
Option C for the kit installation appears to feel best at the lever. I know this may not be representative of riding but audibly is less fussy in the clutch pack.
Do remove brake pedal.
Unscrew line of lower bolts from horizontal belt cover and just the forward bolt from the little joint cover. This gives enough play.
My input after completing the job:
Avoid removing clutch basket by tying the plates together with dental string. Remove before fully compressing the springs.
Use long M5 bolts to pull the springs down until two of the standard ones reach.
Option C for the kit installation appears to feel best at the lever. I know this may not be representative of riding but audibly is less fussy in the clutch pack.
Do remove brake pedal.
Unscrew line of lower bolts from horizontal belt cover and just the forward bolt from the little joint cover. This gives enough play.
Hi Jez, which job did you complete — did you do the DU-133/6 anti-judder kit?
I'm trying to avoid removing the clutch basket (which another poster said isn't necessary with the anti-judder kit), trying to understand all the shop manual guides/instructions/comments in this thread before I start. (3mm thread is still en route, anyway, so I can wait.)
Why do you need the dental string?
And where do you use the M5 bolts? How long is "long"?
Sorry it all seems confusing before having opened the clutch at all. I'll write up my own notes on the DU-133/6 installation when I'm done.
Ok, I've done it now and see why you needed the dental string!
After a lot of struggle and a fear, I've gotten it to this point. See images I'll attach.
I removed the two topmost plates, placed the new two plates (plus anti judder spring and washer), and then really struggled to get the retainer back in between all the plates' teeth.
I THINK I got it in. I'm 90% sure it's installed right. But I'm not sure.
I havent finished torquing the bolts but they're on their way and I'm concerned there's too much free play on the final plate. Does this look right to you? It looks sketchy to me.
Photos and videos:
After a lot of struggle and a fear, I've gotten it to this point. See images I'll attach.
I removed the two topmost plates, placed the new two plates (plus anti judder spring and washer), and then really struggled to get the retainer back in between all the plates' teeth.
I THINK I got it in. I'm 90% sure it's installed right. But I'm not sure.
I havent finished torquing the bolts but they're on their way and I'm concerned there's too much free play on the final plate. Does this look right to you? It looks sketchy to me.
Photos and videos:
Joined Sep 2017
595 Posts | 121+
Lansing Mi
Something is not right. Most likely when you put the 2 slipper sections together 1 plate didn't fall into position (looks like about 1 plate of movement). Tightening it all down will not fix this.pullnit back apart, count the plates and try again. Also, be cure that the arrows on the inner slipper assembly and outer line up. If I remember correctly there are 2 sets of arrows. The ones you can see right now and the ones on the inner slipper hub and outer slipper hub. Line those up to make the oil passages line up.
thanks @Araitim and @gatdammit, I've learned a lot from your posts.
I also thought maybe one of the driven plates was misaligned. Probably just one!
Pulled it apart again. Confirmed (a few times) 11 friction plates, 10 steel plates between them, plus I'm staring at the one of each I removed.
Yeah @gatdammit I did use those 3mm poles threaded rods. Also thanks for sharing your failings — really helpful! (I can't learn from success stories!) I'm definitely writing up more.
Also realised the previous owner had installed an Adige pack, but not the anti-judder kit. From other posts, it does appear that the two are compatible. I had worried that the packs were not compatible and that the plates shouldn't sit beyond the hub, but it looks the same as photos on the first page of this thread: 2015 Clutch Kits Now Available
I couldn't find an inner arrow to line up to, but I do know there are only four possible orientations... so I found two oil holes that lined up and voila! thanks! It goes in slightly further now.
Unfortunately when I got it all back together there was still a tiny bit of play (much less than one disc, but still a bit in what should be a taut pack, right?) in one part only.
I disassembled it, realised I hadn't seated the springs, re-assembled it... still free play. Video below.
Plus, it no longer rotates freely (in neutral) with the retainer spring in. I don't even know if it should. I think I'm out of my depth with this project and going to find a mechanic in my part of Australia.
Free play:
More clarity on the stack-up:
I also thought maybe one of the driven plates was misaligned. Probably just one!
Pulled it apart again. Confirmed (a few times) 11 friction plates, 10 steel plates between them, plus I'm staring at the one of each I removed.
Yeah @gatdammit I did use those 3mm poles threaded rods. Also thanks for sharing your failings — really helpful! (I can't learn from success stories!) I'm definitely writing up more.
Also realised the previous owner had installed an Adige pack, but not the anti-judder kit. From other posts, it does appear that the two are compatible. I had worried that the packs were not compatible and that the plates shouldn't sit beyond the hub, but it looks the same as photos on the first page of this thread: 2015 Clutch Kits Now Available
I couldn't find an inner arrow to line up to, but I do know there are only four possible orientations... so I found two oil holes that lined up and voila! thanks! It goes in slightly further now.
Unfortunately when I got it all back together there was still a tiny bit of play (much less than one disc, but still a bit in what should be a taut pack, right?) in one part only.
I disassembled it, realised I hadn't seated the springs, re-assembled it... still free play. Video below.
Plus, it no longer rotates freely (in neutral) with the retainer spring in. I don't even know if it should. I think I'm out of my depth with this project and going to find a mechanic in my part of Australia.
Free play:
More clarity on the stack-up:
Joined Sep 2017
595 Posts | 121+
Lansing Mi
I still feel like that last plate that you can't see or get too while tightening back down with the little rods didn't fall into it's home or that little tabs that stick up on the inside isn't falling into their hole. That would indicate that the arrows aren't lined up . Here is mine right now. Notice how my putter pressure plate is inside the basket . Your pressure plate is farther out
Attachments
Makes sense @Araitim. I was trying to figure out why it wouldn't spin freely, and being jammed against a misaligned plate might do it.
I actually can't even see how the little tabs could reach their slots. The 11 plates (10 Adige + 1 Adige DU 133/6) are too thick! Just shows I'm out of my depth. I'm definitely going to "frag" my clutch as @gatdammit said unless I'm super careful and patient...
I actually can't even see how the little tabs could reach their slots. The 11 plates (10 Adige + 1 Adige DU 133/6) are too thick! Just shows I'm out of my depth. I'm definitely going to "frag" my clutch as @gatdammit said unless I'm super careful and patient...
Joined Sep 2017
595 Posts | 121+
Lansing Mi
Take your time and lay attention to each piece. If I remember correctly I had to shake the whole assembly around a little to get that last plate to drop into place as I tightened the threaded rods. Loosen them up a little and shake it around a little see if you can feel that last plate shifting from side to side. If it does then that is mostly likely the issue
Took the plunge and ordered a 32mm socket on eBay — I'll remove the basket to do it "properly". It'll arrive in a couple of days. Frustratingly, my other two bikes are ALSO off the road (bad timing) so at least one's going to the mechanic for a quicker repair!
I actually called a mechanic to take this one off my hands. He told me he was backlogged for two weeks, then told me how to do it myself, saying I was mostly there
Nice guy, he'll have my business some time.
I actually called a mechanic to take this one off my hands. He told me he was backlogged for two weeks, then told me how to do it myself, saying I was mostly there
Nice guy, he'll have my business some time.Finished. Clutch basket had to come off. The reason is that the final toothed steel plate kept falling off on one side, no matter how gently I put them back on, even with the bike precariously leaned over towards me.
I'd recommend anyone either commit to removing the clutch basket, or don't do it (or get a mechanic to do it — my quotes before I took it apart myself were 2-2.5 hours labour).
Engagement is smooth now. Clutch behaves like a normal motorcycle.
PS in the last few weeks I also picked up a Ducati Superbike 1098S as another fixer-upper (mostly cosmetic). Surprisingly, the Superbike is MUCH easier to ride than the Hyper in stock trim, despite the huge power and gearing differential, because its clutch behaves normally.
I'd recommend anyone either commit to removing the clutch basket, or don't do it (or get a mechanic to do it — my quotes before I took it apart myself were 2-2.5 hours labour).
Engagement is smooth now. Clutch behaves like a normal motorcycle.
PS in the last few weeks I also picked up a Ducati Superbike 1098S as another fixer-upper (mostly cosmetic). Surprisingly, the Superbike is MUCH easier to ride than the Hyper in stock trim, despite the huge power and gearing differential, because its clutch behaves normally.
Hi Guys,
I've been following this guide trying to install the Bevel washer fix. I followed the detailed instructions and managed to get the pressure plate back on with no play in the plates ie. the last plate seems to be seated correctly. I'm struggling after test fitting the clutch cover, I can't seem to get the clutch actuator to disengage the clutch. I've tried refitting the clutch cover multiple times with no luck. I have the correct number of plates, I removed the driven and drive plate and replaced it with the ones from the kit, the last plate is offset as per instructions. Having read the forums it seems that i'm not getting the actuator to seat properly, but i can't figure out what i'm doing wrong. I seem to having the same problem as one of the previous posters. I'm testing it by manually rotating the clutch actuator and looking through the oil fill whole.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Danny
I've been following this guide trying to install the Bevel washer fix. I followed the detailed instructions and managed to get the pressure plate back on with no play in the plates ie. the last plate seems to be seated correctly. I'm struggling after test fitting the clutch cover, I can't seem to get the clutch actuator to disengage the clutch. I've tried refitting the clutch cover multiple times with no luck. I have the correct number of plates, I removed the driven and drive plate and replaced it with the ones from the kit, the last plate is offset as per instructions. Having read the forums it seems that i'm not getting the actuator to seat properly, but i can't figure out what i'm doing wrong. I seem to having the same problem as one of the previous posters. I'm testing it by manually rotating the clutch actuator and looking through the oil fill whole.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Danny
Thanks, I'm thinking maybe the puller rod isn't seat correctly in the pressure plate, and the actuator can't grab it.
hi I just changed my cable for a new one (haven't done the kit as I have a 2015 so don't think I need to as I believe it has the later type). But anyway - the old cable I couldn't move by hand at all. New one silky smooth obviously. So change your cables too! Makes a massive difference.
Thanks got it working turns out you are correct, i couldn't engage the actuator by hand, once connected to the cable it worked fine. I guess I wasted a weekend for nothing. Also gave me a chance to properly adjust cable. Debating whether to change starter motor for denso, and dropping in some andreani cartridges into the forks.
Similar threads
