Joined Oct 2021
124 Posts | 65+
New Brunswick Canada
Ducati Hypermotard 821 clutch fix - the definitive guide
- Thread starter bayotte
- Start date
There are two - the one at the lever is for fine tuning, the one in the center of the cable length, is for rough adjustment. As the cable stretches, it's good to reset the fine tuner to the center and do a rough adjust at the second adjuster. It'll keep a nice friction zone and make neutral easy to find.
Just to note: I had this conversion done by my mechanic, and gave him diagrams from this thread. The clutch is sweet as a kittens breath on a dewy morn. Thanks all for the pioneering.
Hi guys.
I know this topic is a bit old.
I just clutch mod on my 2013 Hyperstrada.
I couldn't find the anti judder kit but I have replaced it with the OEM 19020312A Clutch Kit.
I have reasebled everything but I'm having some issues.
1. To find the neutral I have to make some serios adjustments to the cable ( picture attached ).
2. Frm 3rd gear, on wide open throttle I feel some Clutch slip or lurch that ( the engine is revving but is not putting the power down ).
Now when I read all post's I'm thinking back and my clutch pack looks like someone mentioned a few pages back. Pic 3 and 4 attached.
Could be the incorect stack fit the cause for this ?
Thanks a lot !
I know this topic is a bit old.
I just clutch mod on my 2013 Hyperstrada.
I couldn't find the anti judder kit but I have replaced it with the OEM 19020312A Clutch Kit.
I have reasebled everything but I'm having some issues.
1. To find the neutral I have to make some serios adjustments to the cable ( picture attached ).
2. Frm 3rd gear, on wide open throttle I feel some Clutch slip or lurch that ( the engine is revving but is not putting the power down ).
Now when I read all post's I'm thinking back and my clutch pack looks like someone mentioned a few pages back. Pic 3 and 4 attached.
Could be the incorect stack fit the cause for this ?
Thanks a lot !
Attachments
Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
This is way back machine for me but, I do remember the OEM cable clutch was very sensitive to correct play setting (2-3mm). However, I only remember it seriously affecting roll out from a stop in 1st and finding neutral. Are you slipping into neutral OK? Don't remember if anti-judder kit affected that as I went the hydraulic clutch route when I added the judder spring. I think if you're engaging and pulling fine through 1st-2nd, odd that clutch adjustment would affect the upper gears. Have you tried all traction/ power mode settings?
If you pull the basket to troubleshoot, I'd highly recommend the hyd clutch mod. It solves so many problems of the OEM setup. Never had a single issue after 6 years. Check my DIY. There's also very good clutch threads on here with many pictures.
If you pull the basket to troubleshoot, I'd highly recommend the hyd clutch mod. It solves so many problems of the OEM setup. Never had a single issue after 6 years. Check my DIY. There's also very good clutch threads on here with many pictures.
Hi guys, recently did my clutch conversion and thanks everyone who contributed. I got a question There is one washer and one thrust spacer in the clutch diagram both very similar. Would I be right in assuming that the “Thrust spacer” is the thicker of the two. And I forgot to soak my drive plates on installation, is this a problem? Regards
I did the swap. Great results as far as launch, but down shifting is hard now. I have to really stomp the shift lever to downshift! Any one else experience this?
Joined Jun 2021
94 Posts | 26+
Melton Mo UK
Seems more questions than answers lately, I think some of the old guru's have moved on.
Have just done mine this weekend with the Valtermoto kit I'd had for some time.
I will add a note that seems overlooked.
First thing to check when the clutch is disassembled-
Make sure the beleville spring/ spring seat washer will sit flat on the inside face of the pusher plate (x)
Mine did not. The machining at the base of the splines was bigger than the I.D. of the spring, so it did not sit right.
This will cause the issue of having the last friction plate to be loose after tightening up the clutch assembly (loose at the top usually ,tight at the bottom) (As I discovered 2 or 3 times. . . .)
It will also be the cause of the actuator pin to be stiff, possibly some of the other problems people have had.
Without a lathe, I spun the pusher plate on my lap whilst pressing a sharp wood chisel (shut up!) against the raised lip. It sounds crude but the result was acceptable and the washer fit.
(In hindsight, I may have been able to shrink fit it into place)
Secondly. Ducati et al, claim that the Belleville spring should fit against the face of the aluminium pusher plate.
I would disagree. The spacer washer should fit there.
The kit I got requires the last drive plate replaced with a new (hardened?) one.So to put the flat spacer next to it; I may as well have kept the old drive plate in place. While at the other side would be a hardened steel Belleville with sharp edges flexing & digging into the soft Aluminium.
Mechanically; There is 2 parallel faces pressed together by springs with this spring pushing against them, so it should not make a difference which way round they are fitted.
.
Flat washer to Aluminium /small side of Belleville to small bearing face of washer/ large side to larger bearing face of new drive plate is good engineering practice.
(Option 'D' from the post from ages ago)
I fit it ok (with patience) without removing the full basket & big nut, but tied the plate stack & pusher together with thread.
I bought the kit a couple of years ago but Valtermoto said it would be the last batch as Adige the manufacturer were discontinuing them
If you were smart, you could make your own.
-Remove from bike last friction & drive plate.
Machine the middle of the friction plate to 115mm diameter
Have the drive plate case hardened.
buy -
Belleville spring OD 113mm ID 103mm THK 1.35mm height 2MM
spacer OD 113 ID 103 1.6 thk.
The washers for the springs (not sure if essential) are 18MM OD 12mm ID 1.5mm x4 aluminium.
Just a few thoughts.
-A
Have just done mine this weekend with the Valtermoto kit I'd had for some time.
I will add a note that seems overlooked.
First thing to check when the clutch is disassembled-
Make sure the beleville spring/ spring seat washer will sit flat on the inside face of the pusher plate (x)
Mine did not. The machining at the base of the splines was bigger than the I.D. of the spring, so it did not sit right.
This will cause the issue of having the last friction plate to be loose after tightening up the clutch assembly (loose at the top usually ,tight at the bottom) (As I discovered 2 or 3 times. . . .)
It will also be the cause of the actuator pin to be stiff, possibly some of the other problems people have had.
Without a lathe, I spun the pusher plate on my lap whilst pressing a sharp wood chisel (shut up!) against the raised lip. It sounds crude but the result was acceptable and the washer fit.
(In hindsight, I may have been able to shrink fit it into place)
Secondly. Ducati et al, claim that the Belleville spring should fit against the face of the aluminium pusher plate.
I would disagree. The spacer washer should fit there.
The kit I got requires the last drive plate replaced with a new (hardened?) one.So to put the flat spacer next to it; I may as well have kept the old drive plate in place. While at the other side would be a hardened steel Belleville with sharp edges flexing & digging into the soft Aluminium.
Mechanically; There is 2 parallel faces pressed together by springs with this spring pushing against them, so it should not make a difference which way round they are fitted.
.
Flat washer to Aluminium /small side of Belleville to small bearing face of washer/ large side to larger bearing face of new drive plate is good engineering practice.
(Option 'D' from the post from ages ago)
I fit it ok (with patience) without removing the full basket & big nut, but tied the plate stack & pusher together with thread.
I bought the kit a couple of years ago but Valtermoto said it would be the last batch as Adige the manufacturer were discontinuing them
If you were smart, you could make your own.
-Remove from bike last friction & drive plate.
Machine the middle of the friction plate to 115mm diameter
Have the drive plate case hardened.
buy -
Belleville spring OD 113mm ID 103mm THK 1.35mm height 2MM
spacer OD 113 ID 103 1.6 thk.
The washers for the springs (not sure if essential) are 18MM OD 12mm ID 1.5mm x4 aluminium.
Just a few thoughts.
-A
Glad you finally got it installed Alan! Hopefully the clutch is less aggressive now or was yours tolerable before? Must have been...
Nick
Nick
Joined Jun 2021
94 Posts | 26+
Melton Mo UK
Tolerable? No, terrible Nick!
I put up with it long enough but was always a worry to launch/ squirt out into a gap in traffic.
(Finally fitted your Eldor's too! Just catching up on my winter (2021) jobs
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