Ducati Hypermotard 821 clutch fix - the definitive guide
- Thread starter bayotte
- Start date
Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
Did that a couple times when the bike was new! It has been very hard to de-program that muscle memory with the hydraulic setup. Now I look like a newbie that can't find the friction point in 1st...I just keep waiting for that bite as I let the lever out.
Well, hell. Been surfing here for a while and taking in a lot of great information. I got my used 2013 in December as a need help bike. Spent the winter cleaning, replacing, refurbishing and finally got to ride it today.
I've been riding a long time on a lot of bikes and the nasty little clutch surprise waiting for me had me feeling like a beginner. Not to mention looking like one. Trying to get moving on an uphill grade I damn near killed it and myself in traffic.
So, just ordered the judder spring kit. Seven remain on the Valtermoto EBAY site here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2014-...695840&hash=item261b220a45:g:jfQAAOSwmP9cwQCo
This is the 2013-14 model kit.
Many thanks to everyone here for their input along the way and I will be sure to post my trials and tribulations when I get into this.
p3
I've been riding a long time on a lot of bikes and the nasty little clutch surprise waiting for me had me feeling like a beginner. Not to mention looking like one. Trying to get moving on an uphill grade I damn near killed it and myself in traffic.
So, just ordered the judder spring kit. Seven remain on the Valtermoto EBAY site here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2014-...695840&hash=item261b220a45:g:jfQAAOSwmP9cwQCo
This is the 2013-14 model kit.
Many thanks to everyone here for their input along the way and I will be sure to post my trials and tribulations when I get into this.
p3
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I finally got around to installing the updated clutch. It's so much better than stock. Behaves like a normal motorcycle clutch now.
Thanks guys for locating the parts and the excellent write ups.
Thanks guys for locating the parts and the excellent write ups.
Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
Any of the judder kit installers notice if you still get slight engagement in gear with clutch fully disengaged? Before I touched my clutch, I couldn't get rid of a 7-8 mph walk when testing on the center stand. I could feel it bite a little at a stop with the lever in.
After doing the hyd clutch/ judder mod, it was completely gone - wheel didn't budge. it's been about 1200 miles and it's back. Not sure if it just needs to be bled, but suspicious that it's exactly the same as when I had the cable setup.
After doing the hyd clutch/ judder mod, it was completely gone - wheel didn't budge. it's been about 1200 miles and it's back. Not sure if it just needs to be bled, but suspicious that it's exactly the same as when I had the cable setup.
FWIW, mine had that both before and after the clutch judder mod, but I do not have a hydraulic clutch.
Joined Sep 2017
595 Posts | 121+
Lansing Mi
You used the ball bearing in your hydraulic conversion. I wonder if your slipping the and warpedd/created hot spots in your plated. I recently switched to an Oberon slave cylinder (from an OEM 848 slave) because my push rod was spinning and I was loosing brake fluid. . The Oberon has the anti spin pin. With the slave it tells you the measurements needed to determine if you need the ballbearing. I can tell you the measurement when I get home. It basically says it the rod sticks out of the case this far you dont need the spacer. If it sticks out less than this you do need the spacer. I did not use the ball bearing on either slave cylinders. My measurement verified that it wasnt needed. What do you think, could your clutch be slipping causing your problem.
I will be trying to install a Magura Hymec this week. If it works like I hope, it should be a very easy and relatively affordable solution to putting a hydraulic clutch on our bikes.
https://www.magura.com/en/components/powersports/hydraulicclutchsystems/productdetailpage/?p=1853
https://www.magura.com/en/components/powersports/hydraulicclutchsystems/productdetailpage/?p=1853
I'm getting ready for a motorcycle trip next week so I thought I'd install the Clutch Fix as my original clutch is pretty evil and I installed an upgraded Factory Pro Hybrid Ceramic Pro Shift Kit in the hopes of some improved shifting while I had the Clutch Basket out (need this out to get at it)...
I'm having a definite problem with my Clutch (Cover) Release Lever (factory manual calls it "drive unit (lever (A) and spring)". When I fit the cover, it's feel good and feel the engagement as I put it into position it came from when I took it apart, however, once I start snugging down the cover screws it it binds up tight...
This I know:
-installed Judder Kit correctly (10 friction plates, includes the Turned one from the kit), pulled outer (friction) Drive Plate and Driven plate and put in from the kit the new Driven Plate, Judder spacer, Judder Spring and Turned Drive Plate, in that order in Configuration A shown earlier in this post...
-Clutch Pack when installed in the Basket looks like the right height and the Judders are inside the ID of the Turned Drive Plate...
-Turned Drive Plate (new one with the Judder) is indexted in its slot and all the others in theirs, inner and outer Pressure Plate arrows are aligned...
-All the Washers and Spacers on the Primary Shaft are there and in the correct order and the Nut is greased and torqued at 140 ft/lbs (correction to the factory manual)...
-I've put it together with the Pressure Plate Spring Spacers and without, no difference as pointed out in this thread...
My Clutch (Cover) Release Lever also moves up and down about 1/4"-3/8" and I've been careful about it's index when installing the cover...
I'm all ears at this point...
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Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
All I can say is don't fire it up until your sure it's installed correctly. If you read my saga, mine fragged and caused substantial damage inside the basket.
The manual doesn't have any details or tips about aligning the actuator arm. There's definitely users on this board that have done the judder kit and didn't report problems. My guru's are Kuksol and Araitim.
Good luck. If you get too frustrated or it nukes when you start it, just go the hydraulic clutch route. Benefits justify the cost.
Joined Sep 2017
595 Posts | 121+
Lansing Mi
The center pull pin is pressed in. It sounds like you might need to turn the release arm (the piece the cable attached too) a little when you get to the point of resistance. I would turn it backwards slightly and see if it will allow you past the troubling spot . If that doesnt work try the other way. I feel like you might just be slightly off and it's trying to push the center pin out of the bearing.
I think you're having the same problem I did. The problem is I didn't discover the problem until after i had glued my cover back-on. Really sucked doing this twice.
Here's my post
http://hyperstrada.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=29817
Here's my post
http://hyperstrada.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=29817
OK, problem solved, it's wasn't the cover at all, it appears to be a part on the low side of tolerance (ground diamter), I've had this cover on and off at least 8 times and the problem was been the lever either not wanting to engage the nail head (factory name is Clutch Control Pin) or the lever binding when I tried to snug up the Cover, the nail head has a light press fit into a Bearing in the Pusher Plate, it's a press fit so the bearing spins instead of the Clutch Control Pin spinning in the bearing race...
So, I measured the clutch Drive Unit (in the Clutch Cover) where it is designed to engage under the nail head up to the over mounting surface, then I measured the engine case up to the underneath of the nail head (Clutch Control Pin) and found about a 1/4" discrepancy....
Knew it could NOT be the cover, so I pulled the Push Plate Assy AGAIN and looked at the nail head (Clutch Control Pin) in the Bearing and what do you know, it looked to be down about a 1/4", so I pressed hard with my thumb and it popped back up and re-seated against the bearing and the nail head now sits higher (more proud of) the clutch assembly, took all of 5 minutes to dry fit the cover again (I'm good at it now) and it worked first try), back off, RTV (3 Bond) and back on it went first try, bolts all in the right holes and now it's curing....
I should not have been able to move this part with my thumb, it should have required a dead blow hammer or a good rubber mallet (recommend the latter on bearings like this) but here I am wondering what the hell...next clutch this gets replaced...Thanx for the quick responses and advice, hope this helps someone else...
So, I measured the clutch Drive Unit (in the Clutch Cover) where it is designed to engage under the nail head up to the over mounting surface, then I measured the engine case up to the underneath of the nail head (Clutch Control Pin) and found about a 1/4" discrepancy....
Knew it could NOT be the cover, so I pulled the Push Plate Assy AGAIN and looked at the nail head (Clutch Control Pin) in the Bearing and what do you know, it looked to be down about a 1/4", so I pressed hard with my thumb and it popped back up and re-seated against the bearing and the nail head now sits higher (more proud of) the clutch assembly, took all of 5 minutes to dry fit the cover again (I'm good at it now) and it worked first try), back off, RTV (3 Bond) and back on it went first try, bolts all in the right holes and now it's curing....
I should not have been able to move this part with my thumb, it should have required a dead blow hammer or a good rubber mallet (recommend the latter on bearings like this) but here I am wondering what the hell...next clutch this gets replaced...Thanx for the quick responses and advice, hope this helps someone else...
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Did you ever figure out what the problem was? My clutch was fine during the spring, but once the temperatures got over 20 C, it started doing exactly what you describe, but is fairly consistent. Basically sounds like what everyone with 13/14 models are complaining about.
I'm following this and was hoping someone has done the retrofit. I cant find a write up on replacing just the judder kit
Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
For the actual clutch pack, be sure to keep the same amount of clutch sets. You have to remove an OEM set to add the judder kit. I talked about this in my hydraulic clutch DIY. That and this thread are all you should need.
I'd like to see a poll on the judder spring orientation used and results. I'm doing mine sunday but have no idea what position I'm going to use
I've been trying to get this finished for a couple weeks now. Finally got the nut torqued down and installed the spring/actuator assembly. Test fitting the cover I attached the cable(which was all the way loose but still tight fit). The amount I had to push the arm to connect the cable puts it a permanent disengagement
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