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I read that same post on the Ducati forums. And I also was so confused as my friend has the kit on his Monster 821 which has the same engine. Also, if you google hydraulic clutch Hypermotard, you wont be able to find 1 example of a HYM with it installed. Seriously, I think I will be the only person with a hydraulic clutch HYM 821 lol. But in that post they were talking about the Oberon clutch slave, which has a different design to fit a little pin thats horizontally on the push rod. The push rod in the Ducabike kit doesnt have this pin, and all Ducabike clutch slaves are compatible. AF01 / AF02 / AF03. You can get the hydraulic kit with or without the master brake cylinder.
I contacted Ducabike because I was worried, but they told me it will be compatible and gave me a list of part # needed for the install.

Sweet. Recommend you start a new thread with part #'s, progress and DIY instructions if do the work yourself. I'm on the fence about the clear clutch mod, but if I did it, would definitely do full hyd clutch too. I've grown so accustomed to the stock clutch that it's not often I'm reminded how bad it is. Funny thing is, I've only stalled this bike maybe 5 times over 5 years. Probably because I work so hard on a clean launch.
 
I just did My today and that make feel like different bike wow amazing. I did the ebay kit and i found out that I don't have to remove the big nut form the clutch pack. I really like it the way the bike perform now
 
I just did My today and that make feel like different bike wow amazing. I did the ebay kit and i found out that I don't have to remove the big nut form the clutch pack. I really like it the way the bike perform now

Did you do the full clear clutch cover install Casso? With the hydraulic clutch kit? Or did you use the mechanical clutch slave?
 
Hey guys, I have a 2014 Hypermotard 821 with all of the clutch issues stated by others. Its almost impossible to find neutral under 20-30kph. I notice it did get better though after about 7-8000kms when the bike was broken in a little. I get mis shifts all the time. Mostly between 5-6 gear. And generally shifting is just feels rough. I was about to order the anit-judder kit mentioned here when my friend thrashed his monster 821 and sold me his Ducabike clear clutch cover for cheap. He told me his clutch was having all the same issues unitil after he installed the clear clutch cover, pressure plate, and the hydraulic clutch kit all issues were solved. Ive been researching about the parts needed to install it and decided just to convert my whole clutch system to hydraulic. Ducabike has a kit for this with the clutch master cylinder/lever included, but I will be purchasing the kit without it and buying a Brembo RCS14 master. Its on the way and I will let you guys know how the clutch feels after the conversion.

If you can't find neutral then your clutch cable isn't adjusted properly. Set the lever adjuster around middle adjustment, adjust lever play at the secondary adjuster, return to lever adjuster for fine tuning. Neutral should be easy to find. In fact, that's how I gauge if my final cable adjustment is correct. Stock clutch.
 
Bought my Hyper 821 just last week, and having the first gen already in the stable and modded out, I couldn't live with the grabby clutch so added the 4 pieces from the eBay anti shudder kit this weekend. I ran into a big problem not discussed in detail on this thread where the spacer between the clutch basket and clutch pack was binding and causing my clutch pack to stick out an extra 1/8-1/4". After I sealed the clutch cover and installed everything back, I noticed that my clutch lever wouldn't disengage the clutch. I had to remove my cover again and it took me a while to figure out why my 32m nut was not sitting at least flush with its bolt. I finally shoved the clutch pack in right after messing around with it and that spacer was the issue. Then when I started the bike after testing that the clutch was engaging - it was super hard to shift, like the clutch plates were jammed or something, and I couldn't move the lever to neutral unless the motor was turned off. Turns out the cable as discussed in this thread needed to be adjusted and that solved the hard shifting and neutral problems. 821 runs like a champ now (fingers crossed) and shifts easier than my old Honda sportbikes. WTF was Ducati thinking and I can't believe the previous owner rode it like this for 11k miles. It nearly threw me off and I almost dumped it on my test ride like week. (I've been riding for 20 years and this is my 4th Duck) Now my first gen has some pretty stiff competition. I want to thank the OP and all contributors to solving this issue, now lets see what a new exhaust will do.

*Also, want to add that using clamps to compress the clutch pack worked a lot better for than trying to wrench a 3mm nut.
 
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Bought my Hyper 821 just last week, and having the first gen already in the stable and modded out, I couldn't live with the grabby clutch so added the 4 pieces from the eBay anti shudder kit this weekend. I ran into a big problem not discussed in detail on this thread where the spacer between the clutch basket and clutch pack was binding and causing my clutch pack to stick out an extra 1/8-1/4". After I sealed the clutch cover and installed everything back, I noticed that my clutch lever wouldn't disengage the clutch. I had to remove my cover again and it took me a while to figure out why my 32m nut was not sitting at least flush with its bolt. I finally shoved the clutch pack in right after messing around with it and that spacer was the issue. Then when I started the bike after testing that the clutch was engaging - it was super hard to shift, like the clutch plates were jammed or something, and I couldn't move the lever to neutral unless the motor was turned off. Turns out the cable as discussed in this thread needed to be adjusted and that solved the hard shifting and neutral problems. 821 runs like a champ now (fingers crossed) and shifts easier than my old Honda sportbikes. WTF was Ducati thinking and I can't believe the previous owner rode it like this for 11k miles. It nearly threw me off and I almost dumped it on my test ride like week. (I've been riding for 20 years and this is my 4th Duck) Now my first gen has some pretty stiff competition. I want to thank the OP and all contributors to solving this issue, now lets see what a new exhaust will do.

*Also, want to add that using clamps to compress the clutch pack worked a lot better for than trying to wrench a 3mm nut.

Great to hear.

Agreed there are a few weird things about the upgrade but people seem to have figured it out well enough and we have a lot more happy riders out there now :D I upgraded mine just in time to sell it. Such a shame, but those were a great 3-4 rides!
 
Glad thing worked out, sucks that you had to take the cover off twice though! I agree, ducati dropped the ball big time. My bike also had 15k on it, feel bad for the previous owner who never got to experience the bike with a well-functioning clutch!
 
Elementary question!

New owner of a 2013 821 here, and I've already done the Boosterplug mod and have the Adige clutch-anti-judder kit in hand. Despite looking at various diagrams, I'm unclear about how far I need to go into the clutch to fit the extra bits. Should I need to undo the big 32mm nut? It looks to me as though the extra bits fit just below the outer section, but since this is not a conventional Ducati dry clutch, I think I have a lot to learn!

Nick, UK
 
New owner of a 2013 821 here, and I've already done the Boosterplug mod and have the Adige clutch-anti-judder kit in hand. Despite looking at various diagrams, I'm unclear about how far I need to go into the clutch to fit the extra bits. Should I need to undo the big 32mm nut? It looks to me as though the extra bits fit just below the outer section, but since this is not a conventional Ducati dry clutch, I think I have a lot to learn!

Nick, UK

I dont remember having to remove the center nut. You need to thread the tiny threaded rod into the small holes, back out the clutch springs, remove the needed plates then reinstall it all
 
After selling my hyper I still have my adige clutch kit leftover in the garage. Anyone here still in need of one? I'll let it go for cheap.
 
For the brave Stradista's that have attempted this fix:
- When I was refitting the case, I noticed the spring assisted clutch release arm wasn't seated properly when I first mated the cases. Quickly realized this and jiggered it until it was seated and operating correctly...or so I thought.

I've been putting her back together and replaced the clutch cable. I was attaching the clutch cable to the actuator arm and noticed it might not disengage the clutch fully the way it was seated. Started messing with it and have 2 potential issues:
1. If I twist hard enough, it will break the spring tension and do full rotations. It will catch again, but the position of the arm shifts slightly each time.
2. About 1/2" of play vertically in the arm. I can pull it up but it does take some force.

Already put oil in it and really hope I don't have to crack the case again. Any help appreciated in advance.
 
The clutch arm is normal to have a tiny bit of vertical play, but certainly not 1/2". I think something is not connected properly, and would not start the engine until you have that sorted.

I don't have my hyper any more to compare to but I can try to provide some input. Just think, if it takes you an extra hour or two to pop the cover and make sure it's still good inside it is much better than trying to run it and causing damage in some way.
 
So I have had this kit for a while, and now just getting to installing it. I have found I lost the washers that came with the kit. anyone know the dimensions of the washers?
 
So I have had this kit for a while, and now just getting to installing it. I have found I lost the washers that came with the kit. anyone know the dimensions of the washers?

It has been said that the washer/spring spacers are not totally needed and just an option. A few pages back(might have been a different pist) I asked that too and the general consensus was that they weren't "needed".
 
Awesome, Thanks for the Info. Looks like i'll be putting it back together today :D I bought this bike new, was my first road bike. The clutch has always been my biggest gripe. I didn't realize how bad it was until I got a Husqvarna 701 enduro that has an amazing clutch. Now I realize why all my friends would always stall. I love this bike and only wish i got the SP version.
 
The clutch arm is normal to have a tiny bit of vertical play, but certainly not 1/2". I think something is not connected properly, and would not start the engine until you have that sorted.

I don't have my hyper any more to compare to but I can try to provide some input. Just think, if it takes you an extra hour or two to pop the cover and make sure it's still good inside it is much better than trying to run it and causing damage in some way.

Fired her up last night.
The Good: No leaks and new Denso starter is very strong.
The Bad: Clutch engagement arm is definitely not installed correctly. It chattered and I could feel an unhealthy vibe coming through it. Clutch cable was not attached. Only ran it for a minute and don't think it did any damage. Didn't try selecting gears for obvious reasons. Probably has about 3/8" of vertical travel. If I turn the arm by hand, it will build spring tension until about 270 deg of rotation and then pop the tension and reset.

Anyone have insight on re-installation of this mechanism? Like I stated before, I noticed it wasn't catching properly before sealing it and did my best at aligning it.

If someone has the shop manual slides of this assembly or re-installation, much appreciated. I don't want to crack the case again unless I'm confident I can fix it.
 
Fired her up last night.
The Good: No leaks and new Denso starter is very strong.
The Bad: Clutch engagement arm is definitely not installed correctly. It chattered and I could feel an unhealthy vibe coming through it. Clutch cable was not attached. Only ran it for a minute and don't think it did any damage. Didn't try selecting gears for obvious reasons. Probably has about 3/8" of vertical travel. If I turn the arm by hand, it will build spring tension until about 270 deg of rotation and then pop the tension and reset.

Anyone have insight on re-installation of this mechanism? Like I stated before, I noticed it wasn't catching properly before sealing it and did my best at aligning it.

If someone has the shop manual slides of this assembly or re-installation, much appreciated. I don't want to crack the case again unless I'm confident I can fix it.


Will these help? Did you put the Pacers back in the right spot? Some motor sport motors I have built have had bushings on the gear spindle where it inserts into the case. I dont see them in these pics but it doesnt mean they arent there.
 

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Just purchased a, new to me, 2014 Strada with 1,250 miles. And stumbled across this thread while investigating the clutch issues

What is the general long term consensus after performing this mod? Worth it? Stay away? Convert to hydraulic instead?

Although, I do see that I'm a little late to the party with the orders and the current eBay listed has expired. If this is a worthwhile project, anyone know where I can get the parts? From what I read, and the low miles on my current clutch, I don't need an entire new clutch pack, just the "fix"