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For me, when I installed the 14T sprocket, the issue was purely electronic. It has nothing to do with anything actually slipping or gripping.

I really don't think this is caused by the clutch because it would happen in every gear and probably more than a singular RPM range. That said, when something screws up it's always best to check the last thing you touched!
 
OK, now that I look at the kit in front of me these drawings make sense...I'm a little slow on the uptake!

Colin

Also - I noticed (and you noted) in the service manual that the judder spring goes first, followed by the spacer. Which way did you put it? I noticed it's different than typical convention. Both the Hyper 821 and Monster 821 service manuals say to put the spring first, but don't specify which direction.

Thanks for your help.

fO2R9Nd.jpg
 
The clutch assembly is now back on the bike and the clutch cover has been dry fitted and awaiting it's final fitting. Getting that cover on is a challenge! I ended up bungieing the brake pedal full on, attaching it under the bike to the centre stand. Hopefully today I will be able to finesse it on without messing up the sealant goo.

Colin
 
I haven't installed mine yet (I just received it today actually), but I know that in the stock configuration my neutral is very hard to find unless I have the clutch lever pulled right to the grip, even though the bite point is much further out in the travel. Maybe just give the cable a quick adjustment and see if it helps?
 
I haven't installed mine yet (I just received it today actually), but I know that in the stock configuration my neutral is very hard to find unless I have the clutch lever pulled right to the grip, even though the bite point is much further out in the travel. Maybe just give the cable a quick adjustment and see if it helps?

Took it for a couple mile spin, adjusted the cable, and it seems to be better now, but still hard to find, but not as hard. Never had an issue with this prior to installing the kit.

ALSO:

The washers that come with the kit get installed UNDER the springs and then bolt the spring retention clip on. Didn't really see that anywhere (might be blind). They were indicated to be spacers, but where to be installed was left out.

HELPFUL HINT on the plates:
As indicated in instructions, 10 DRIVING (friction) plates and 9 DRIVEN (steel) plates. It is 11 DRIVING plates with the "turned plate" from the kit and one stock plate removed. It replaces that plate. The instructions are a little goofy.

I removed the bolts for the lower belt cover and slid it to the side a bit (with some force) before removing the clutch cover. Also removed the brake pedal. Made life a TON easier and got NO sealant where it didn't belong.
 
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I just wanted to say thank you to kuksul for sourcing the parts required and to bayotte for this guide. I just came back from my first ride since doing the clutch fix and...wow! I just can’t wait for the upcoming season. It is night and day difference, so much easier to do smooth shifts, more linear, much more enjoyable! It was well worth the time!
 
Took it for a couple mile spin, adjusted the cable, and it seems to be better now, but still hard to find, but not as hard. Never had an issue with this prior to installing the kit.

I have noticed this as well. Clutch cable adjustment improved, but did not eliminate the issue. A worthwhile tradeoff in my opinion.
 
I can't say I ever noticed the neutral thing, before or after the clutch job, but it will make sense that your clutch lever position will be more sensitive because there's a whole layer of 'mush' in the clutch pack now.
 
I have noticed this as well. Clutch cable adjustment improved, but did not eliminate the issue. A worthwhile tradeoff in my opinion.

I finally got to test the new and modified clutch and have pt a couple of hundred kilometers on it. Definitely much easier to launch smoothly but am also having a tougher time finding neutral. Maybe this'll get easier as the clutch plates get acquainted with one another.

Colin
 
I finally got to test the new and modified clutch and have pt a couple of hundred kilometers on it. Definitely much easier to launch smoothly but am also having a tougher time finding neutral. Maybe this'll get easier as the clutch plates get acquainted with one another.

Colin

Figured out my neutral problem after asking a few people. There is an adjuster near your knee on the right side.

Played with that just slightly as well as the clutch lever, and its PERFECT.

My guess is that it will help you as well. Took 5 mins at the most. I'll post a picture in a few.
 
I finally got to test the new and modified clutch and have pt a couple of hundred kilometers on it. Definitely much easier to launch smoothly but am also having a tougher time finding neutral. Maybe this'll get easier as the clutch plates get acquainted with one another.

Colin

You pull back the sleeve towards the front of the bike, and use a 10/12mm wrench to adjust it. There is a nut that locks the adjuster into place, and then you can adjust it by hand. I loosened that nut, and played with it in the parking lot until I was happy.

Here are the pictures for the adjuster:
 

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Thanks, I'll give that a try later today. I remember that adjuster from when I swapped out my clutch cable.

Colin
 
Yes - I set the lever adjuster in the middle of its adjustment, use the side adjuster to get close to the right free play, and then fine tune at the lever. This helped with both neutral and smoother engagement with the standard clutch pack.
 
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Getting ready to do this and I have a couple of questions about the 32mm socket:

- Is it a 6-point socket or does it need a 12-point one?
- Is it a shallow one or do I need a deep one?