Ducati Hypermotard 821 clutch fix - the definitive guide

ripyowrist · Nov 12, 2017

For those that know,

Is this the proper orientation of the belleville washer and the spacer? I placed it against the hub and around the lip as best I could with the spacer on top and the driving plate from the kit with the fibers on it around that. Then when you flip the stack up and replace the springs it will be the driving plate that is on "top" or farthest out from the center of the bike?

Then the driven plate from the kit last and all the driving/driven plates from the clutch stack minus one driving/driven plate pair?

I know that there is a "paint" style drawing that defines this from the manual that you guys created but I was just a little unsure.

If this is wrong give me a shout. Thanks!

Araitim · Nov 12, 2017

ripyowrist said:
For those that know,

Is this the proper orientation of the belleville washer and the spacer? I placed it against the hub and around the lip as best I could with the spacer on top and the driving plate from the kit with the fibers on it around that. Then when you flip the stack up and replace the springs it will be the driving plate that is on "top" or farthest out from the center of the bike?

Then the driven plate from the kit last and all the driving/driven plates from the clutch stack minus one driving/driven plate pair?

I know that there is a "paint" style drawing that defines this from the manual that you guys created but I was just a little unsure.

If this is wrong give me a shout. Thanks!

I have not down this mod yet but it is on my short list. I have replaced clutches on previous bylines and I use the "C" method. In my hear it will prevent excess wear on the aluminum hub by placing the steel flat washer up against the aluminum basket. I also choose "C" because it places the spring point closer to the center of the friction surfaces. This is all only what makes sense to me but I tend to over think things

kuksul08 · Nov 13, 2017

I can only comment on what I did, which is also what bayotte did, which is put the spring first in orientation 'A' and it changed the clutch feel in a good way. It does seem weird since the common way to do it is put the washer first, but I think Ducati did it this way for a reason because it doesn't sit down perfectly flush if you put the spacer first.

I did contact fredgilb and he said he put it in orientation 'b'. He did comment that he felt it needed to warm up before the clutch felt really perfect. I'm not sure exactly what that means maybe he can expand on it.

Interestingly enough there are some clutch assemblies that say to put the spring somewhere in the middle of the stack. It makes sense that it shouldn't really matter since it's just supposed to provide that thousandth of an inch of squish before engagement.

ripyowrist · Nov 13, 2017

So what I'm hearing is that the orientation ultimately doesn't matter. Just that the pieces from the kit reside in the same place in the stack? That at least makes me confident enough to put my cover back on, and after it seals I will add oil and test. I plan to give an update so we will see what the result is.

It is strange that simply changing the orientation of the spring itself would have any net effect, as in fredgilb's case.

bayotte · Nov 13, 2017

The orientation that kuksol and myself used matches the Ducati service manual. Whether it actually matters is definitely debatable!

st2cmack · Dec 4, 2017

3mm rod length

How long does the 3mm rod actually have to be? Can't find any locally and I have to order some online. There's all sorts of studs available in various lengths and small quantities on Amazon.

TIA
Colin

bayotte · Dec 4, 2017

Approximately 12 inches total

st2cmack · Dec 4, 2017

bayotte said:
Approximately 12 inches total

I assume that means 2 pieces each 6" long?

kuksul08 · Dec 4, 2017

I got 12 inches and cut it in half. I'd say you could get away with 8-10 inches but a little extra doesn't hurt.

st2cmack · Dec 4, 2017

Great, thanks for the advice. I've found some 150mm lengths of rod but the damned things will take more than 3 weeks to get here!

ripyowrist · Dec 4, 2017

st2cmack I believe you could use a like threaded screw about 3 inches long or so (one for each hole, obv.). It just needs to finger tighten and seat against the clutch pack and then be long enough to fully relax the pressure of the springs inside the basket as you back it out. I found that the threaded rod I had was huge overkill. Nothing is going to "fly out" so long as you have a few inches of thread to use to relax the springs before the little yoke top piece comes all the way clear of the springs.

Just another opinion.

bayotte · Dec 4, 2017

Yeah it was a challenge to find them! Ducati actually sells a specialized tool, but it's a rip off in my opinion.

ripyowrist · Dec 4, 2017

haha you're right bayotte, I'm envisioning: "Ducati clutch release fastener $49.95"

those wily Italian jokers, making beautiful bikes we can't resist, meanwhile they're laughing all the way to the bank

bayotte · Dec 4, 2017

I believe they were $50, each!

kuksul08 · Dec 4, 2017

I ordered mine from McMaster Carr. Just 1 foot of threaded rod with a box of nuts. It came to like $8 or so, plus shipping and tax.

ripyowrist · Dec 5, 2017

kuksul08 *same

zippy49 · Dec 10, 2017

I had to buy a meter of the rod at our local McFadden-Dale, still cost less than ten bucks with extra nuts and washers.

Hope I don't have to use them again soon...

Araitim · Jan 2, 2018

Is this how everyone's clutch kit came? With the friction disc packaged with the metal disc, judder spring and spring spacers? My friction disc is all chewed up. This can't be right. Notice all the speck of friction material in the bottom of the bag as well as the friction disc its self pads chewed up. What now? I'm not happy.

monocog007 · Jan 2, 2018

Araitim said:
Is this how everyone's clutch kit came? With the friction disc packaged with the metal disc, judder spring and spring spacers? My friction disc is all chewed up. This can't be right. Notice all the speck of friction material in the bottom of the bag as well as the friction disc its self pads chewed up. What now? I'm not happy.

I'll check tonight when I get home.

kuksul08 · Jan 2, 2018

That's normal. The way they make that plate is they take a regular friction plate and remove the inside diameter using a lathe, hence why it's called a "turned friction plate". So the edge of the pads gets chewed up as the cutting tool chips away at it.

I was a little skeptical at first but it makes sense. The factory confirmed that this was the case. What I did is wipe off the loose fibers and installed it.

I will say I don't think mine was quite as rough. Maybe half as much or so. It's possible yours got jostled around in shipping and broke more fibers loose?

Ducati Hypermotard 821 clutch fix - the definitive guide

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