Ducati Hypermotard 821 clutch fix - the definitive guide

Monocog007, please do let me know. I appreciate it.

kuksul08 said:

That's normal. The way they make that plate is they take a regular friction plate and remove the inside diameter using a lathe, hence why it's called a "turned friction plate". So the edge of the pads gets chewed up as the cutting tool chips away at it.

I was a little skeptical at first but it makes sense. The factory confirmed that this was the case. What I did is wipe off the loose fibers and installed it.

I will say I don't think mine was quite as rough. Maybe half as much or so. It's possible yours got jostled around in shipping and broke more fibers loose?

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Kuksul08, this makes alot of sense, the lathe turned friction plate. Turning the disc could likely cause the material to chip away. Excellent point.

Araitim said:

Monocog007, please do let me know. I appreciate it.

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I can confirm mine looks the same. There was some light shavings in the bag, and the ring looked exactly like kuksul08 mentions, with lathe marks in the inside.

I spoke with the seller. He was very helpful and offered to replace the friction plate. Ultimately in the end I decided to keep it. Worse case scenario I'll throw another disc on the lathe and make a new one. The judder spring was the main piece I was needing. But, as most have said, it probably will not be an issue.

I admit I am a slow learner but, kuksul08, are these your kits?

I have an additional question, is everyone using the 4 spring spacers?

Araitim said:

I admit I am a slow learner but, kuksul08, are these your kits?

I have an additional question, is everyone using the 4 spring spacers?

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I contacted the seller and got him to source the parts for us and arranged the group purchase, but no they are not made by me. My parts are the auxiliary lights and instrument panel protectors.

The spacers.. I used them, but I don't think it really matters. Up to you.

kuksul08 said:

I contacted the seller and got him to source the parts for us and arranged the group purchase, but no they are not made by me. My parts are the auxiliary lights and instrument panel protectors.

The spacers.. I used them, but I don't think it really matters. Up to you.

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Fantastic. Thank you for all your help!

kuksul08 said:

I contacted the seller and got him to source the parts for us and arranged the group purchase, but no they are not made by me. My parts are the auxiliary lights and instrument panel protectors.

The spacers.. I used them, but I don't think it really matters. Up to you.

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Is there a chance that your vendor could continue to import these kits? I sure love mine, and I'm confident that more of them would sell.

zippy49 said:

Is there a chance that your vendor could continue to import these kits? I sure love mine, and I'm confident that more of them would sell.

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Yeah around May he will have a bunch more.

still waiting on 3mm rod

I ordered some 3mm rod from Ebay as it seems to be the only place i can find it. Unfortunately it's coming from fricking China and has not yet arrived(8 weeks later!!!). Has anyone found a source that actually ships from the USA?

TIA
Colin

McMaster-carr and you'll have it next day

Just for the record, I tried to order from Mcmaster Carr and they would not ship to Canada. I then tried to order again and have the bits sent to the place I use just across the border in WA as a freight drop and they wouldn't send it there either. Hmmph, I was a grumpy old man by the time I'd finished talking to a sales rep at M-C.

In the end I found what I needed on Amazon and will end up with a 20 pc bag of 100mm long studs...so maybe I should become a reseller cause I'll have 17 left over!

Well that sucks...

st2cmack said:

Just for the record, I tried to order from Mcmaster Carr and they would not ship to Canada. I then tried to order again and have the bits sent to the place I use just across the border in WA as a freight drop and they wouldn't send it there either. Hmmph, I was a grumpy old man by the time I'd finished talking to a sales rep at M-C.

In the end I found what I needed on Amazon and will end up with a 20 pc bag of 100mm long studs...so maybe I should become a reseller cause I'll have 17 left over!

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I'd be willing to take some off your hands as I'll need some when I get around to replacing the clutch.

edgary said:

I'd be willing to take some off your hands as I'll need some when I get around to replacing the clutch.

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Count me in too!

monocog007 said:

Count me in too!

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I'll get at my clutch in the next week or so and once done I'd be happy to send a few pieces to people who can use them.

My shop space is primarily for woodworking so it's not exactly a clean environment for bikes without a lot of vacuuming. Once i finish the current wood project I'll make the transition to bike shop and embark on the replacing the clutch stuff and the coils. I need to get on the Duc repairs cause the snow in town is melting quickly and it may be an early year for getting the bikes on the road!

kuksul08 said:

That's normal. The way they make that plate is they take a regular friction plate and remove the inside diameter using a lathe, hence why it's called a "turned friction plate". So the edge of the pads gets chewed up as the cutting tool chips away at it.

I was a little skeptical at first but it makes sense. The factory confirmed that this was the case. What I did is wipe off the loose fibers and installed it.

I will say I don't think mine was quite as rough. Maybe half as much or so. It's possible yours got jostled around in shipping and broke more fibers loose?

Click to expand...

I've been reviewing this thread as I just picked up my bike from my local Ducati dealer, who installed the clutch kit.

Naturally, a few question and problems came up. The certified Ducati Master tech who did the job said a few things which confused me (and him!)
1. the spring ring does not go in first, the spacer ring does. Maybe I got it mixed up? but I recall guys here saying the SPRING ring goes in first?

2. According to my Tech, the Ducati service manual is WRONG about many things, including a few things regards the clutch.

3. The spacer ring does not fit properly and will gouge up the Alu pressure plate it rests on. My guy had to manually grind away some material to allow that spacer ring to sit flat and evenly all the way around and not chew up the Alu pressure plate.

4. After that, all goes together as normal.

I'm no tech and lots of this I don't totally get. Tough part is that I see no real tutorial here regards HOW THE KIT SHOULD BE INSTALLED. I'd love to see
LARGE pics illustration it all. STEP BY STEP. Going over the order of how things go together (not simply "reassemble as it came out")

The Good New:
I. Only cost me 1.5 hours labor for the kit install.
2. The clutch engagement is now totally normal ... gone is the grabby instant
jerky engagement.

The Bad News:
Mostly, the bike rides normally ... BUT if I'm HARD on the throttle, typically in 2nd gear, right at Torque peak, I get a sudden L U R CH ... like a momentary clutch slip. Very sudden.

Anyone have any idea what this is? Does not seem to do it anywhere else in rev range and so far, only in 2nd gear but I expect it would do it in 1st if I were brave enough to wheelie it all the way to redline. But in 2nd, it does it every time around peak torque under FULL throttle. AFAIK, this is NOT the rev limiter kicking in. Is it?

The tech mentioned that the new friction plate in the kit (the rough looking beat up one) will need to break in. He said clutch action will get "better" once this new plate has some miles on it.

I have not yet told the Tech and shop about this clutch slip/Lurch issue yet.
Wanted to run this by you guys first.

It only seems to do it when going FULL THROTTLE in 2nd gear. I'm afraid something may break internally. Can't be right, any help appreciated.

Also, I was wondering how many Hyperstrada owners have done the kit install
themselves? Looks like only a few?

All help and advice gladly taken!

Thanks,
Patrick
San Rafael

Okay just read your post... I will try my best to address your concerns!

First of all, 1.5 hours is a sweet deal! Took me way longer than that to do the job.

That's right about the spacer ring, it doesn't fit on the 'conventional' way, and this is why there is so much confusion about which way to put it. The manual states to put it in spring first, and if you do this it does fit onto the hub lip properly. I supposed grinding the ID of the spacer is definitely a solution to allow a conventional installation! I didn't suggest this to anyone here because that could leave room for error and I wasn't sure it would still work. I am still at a loss why the parts fit this way because they come from the OEM factory this way.

About your 2nd gear 'hiccup', do you happen to have a 14T sprocket or an aftermarket clutch lever installed? The symptoms describe the exact issue I had when I installed a 14T sprocket. I could gently roll on the throttle and right at 8,000RPM it would flash the red light and would not go any faster. I replaced the 15T stock sprocket and it's back to normal. A few other people have had this problem. There is a mention of this being caused by the clutch lever switch, but I never ended up finding a solution since my clutch switch works fine and I use stock levers. For me it was definitely some kind of electronic rev limit because the red light would flash and ****** the ignition.

Try it again, you don't need to be WFO, just roll on up to redline and see if you can pinpoint it.

bayotte said:

Understandable that this would be confusing if you didn't do the work yourself. If you had the parts in front of you it would make sense.

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Actually, I had all the parts right in front of me ... and had the master tech trying to explain it all ... the entire clutch basket was off the bike with all the bits and pieces right there in front of me :roll eyes: ... I still don't really get it!

So, I'm an ***** is all. I've done a few clutches on dirt bikes ... but I just took out old plates, put in new ... exactly as it all came out. So no mistakes there.

Here we seem to have some speculation on order of parts install ... so that does not help.

I'm hoping Kuksu is correct about the slipping due to smaller sprocket and after market lever (I have BOTH as it turns out!!!!).

In any case, had the bike back out today ... and clutch engagement action is
fantastic, smooth and totally predictable ... as it should have been from the factory on day one.

Once again ....THANKS AGAIN! For your serious effort to help us all out and get hold of these parts and figure this out. The Master Tech thought it was an EXCELLENT idea and a great and inexpensive solution to the crappy clutch issues on Hypers and some Monsters too.

kuksul08 said:

Okay just read your post... I will try my best to address your concerns!

First of all, 1.5 hours is a sweet deal! Took me way longer than that to do the job.

That's right about the spacer ring, it doesn't fit on the 'conventional' way, and this is why there is so much confusion about which way to put it. The manual states to put it in spring first, and if you do this it does fit onto the hub lip properly. I supposed grinding the ID of the spacer is definitely a solution to allow a conventional installation! I didn't suggest this to anyone here because that could leave room for error and I wasn't sure it would still work. I am still at a loss why the parts fit this way because they come from the OEM factory this way.

About your 2nd gear 'hiccup', do you happen to have a 14T sprocket or an aftermarket clutch lever installed? The symptoms describe the exact issue I had when I installed a 14T sprocket. I could gently roll on the throttle and right at 8,000RPM it would flash the red light and would not go any faster. I replaced the 15T stock sprocket and it's back to normal. A few other people have had this problem. There is a mention of this being caused by the clutch lever switch, but I never ended up finding a solution since my clutch switch works fine and I use stock levers. For me it was definitely some kind of electronic rev limit because the red light would flash and ****** the ignition.

Try it again, you don't need to be WFO, just roll on up to redline and see if you can pinpoint it.

Click to expand...

Thanks SO MUCH for the response! I'll mess around with it. Only time it ever did it so far was under FULL throttle.

But I think you're onto something with the smaller sprocket and non stock lever ... I have both on my bike.

And ... the tech told me my clutch cable is shot and was bent near connection point, so could also be part of problem. ???

I have a feeling all this could all be contributing to "jerk, slip" issue. I did not notice the red light, but would not be surprised if it were there. So yes, could be rev limiter cutting in I guess ... I even switched from Sport back to Touring ... no difference.

So, in your opinion this sudden SLIP/re-engage is not something wrong within the clutch or the Kit? Or .... ??

How would a different sprocket affect this ... and the lever? funny though, I did change the adjuster on my aftermarket lever from where it was before. Maybe I'll try putting it back where it was!

Thanks again for everything! All info appreciated. I'll try to post back from
what Tech says once he has seen the bike again. (AM tomorrow)