Ducati Hypermotard 821 clutch fix - the definitive guide

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fredgilb said:
I don't remove the brake lever. If you work on a (harbor freight!) lift just pull it down with a strap. The cover will clear it. Then that works well when you go to re-tighten the basket too. Sweet write up, Bayotte.
I think we should all call Ducati and insist they sell the different plates separately. Crazy to have to spend that much $$ on something that was so obviously sub-par.
Click to expand...

Agree :D

Thanks for pioneering this upgrade! Glad to have you and bayotte on the forum.
 
kuksul08 any word from that direct source for the clutch pack? I've been holding my breath to see if there is a possible cost-saving route.
 
kuksul08 said:
It should be 19020312A

I'm trying to find a direct source for the clutch pack. I may have a possible lead, which would make the kit cost in the $150 range rather than $466. Will let you guys know as soon as I can.
Click to expand...

Hey man, you got any word back from your black market lead?
 
Hey - did you put your outer clutch plate in offset from the others, or all in one stack? I see it done both ways in the service manual so now I am confused. I also don't know why the outer one would be staggered.
 
I put mine in aligned with the others. I agree, the reason why you would stager it is unclear.
 
bayotte said:
I put mine in aligned with the others. I agree, the reason why you would stager it is unclear.
Click to expand...

Also - I noticed (and you noted) in the service manual that the judder spring goes first, followed by the spacer. Which way did you put it? I noticed it's different than typical convention. Both the Hyper 821 and Monster 821 service manuals say to put the spring first, but don't specify which direction.

Thanks for your help.

fO2R9Nd.jpg
 
I went with option A. Truthfully I bet it doesn't matter too much, but that's the service manual seemed to indicate.
 
So, by "first" you mean counting from the outside. But when assembling this pack it is really "last." Just a bit confusing.
 
Yeah... well, in this clutch it's a bit backwards. The spring does in fact go on first during assembly, and then it gets inserted into another ramped piece before going into the clutch basket. It's very plain to see and can only go together one way.
 
For some reason I am unable to edit my original post.

Important to note that Kuksul found an important error - the torque spec for the clutch hub nut is 140 ft lb, NOT 180-200.

I would prefer to fix the DIY guide but the post is locked for some reason.
 
Ordered just the conversion kit since I only have 6k on my clutch.

Probably a dumb question, but I'm not seeing why we need 8 nuts for the threaded rod?
 
I went to ebay and ordered up the threaded rod and wing nuts. Now it just a waiting game for the sealer, kit and hardware to show up
 
I used 2 nuts on each rod, locked together so they wouldn't spin. I said 8 because they cost pennies and are easy to lose.
 

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