gatdammit
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2013
- Messages
- 2,958
- Location
- Naples, IT
So, I installed this almost 2 months ago but bike was ill following and wanted to investigate before I took a giant dump on the product in a hasty review. After original install, bike fired up better than normal and idled amazing; however, if I twisted more than 61% throttle (determined from free software) it just choked and cut power completely. I finally stripped it back down today to check all my work and found that the main fuel line was kinked. More on this later...
Product: RapidBike Evo 821 (Exclusivo) RB USA
*the "Exclusivo" kit excludes the diagnostic cable, which I highly recommend. I didn't know this when I purchased on eBay from Italian vendor (it's an Italian product) for way less than US distributor. Ended up purchasing cable for $75 after the fact. You may never mess with the management settings but there's lots of little goodies to tinker with and you can get really nerdy if you want. Plus, you can get detailed graphical displays of what each cylinder is doing while running, if wanted. The US distributor was not pleased with my method of purchase but, it was a legit product (verified via Dimsport) and I saved over $200. He caved and agreed to help when I furnished authenticity statement from manufacturer, but I get it that he makes most of his money selling the US-only version and installing them himself.
It's basically this or Rexxer. The "other site" speaks highly of this product and it has an exclusive "Adaptive Tune" (AT) feature which sold me because it fixes the lean fueling issue and I don't care to **** with AF ratio's and other track-minded tuning- though you can certainly do that with this box. With Rexxer or other "flash" tunes, it's only good for the configuration you have at the time: pipe, high flow filter, deleted exhaust valve, etc. One time deal. Add a pipe= another $300 flash. And it's based on set engine maps; which are good, but, why not tune on the fly based on ambient conditions. With the RB kit, the AT will constantly adjust based on all it samples. Oh, for the nerds, it's closed loop also, so you don't have to delete O2 leads. Personally, I killed exhaust valve and installed MWR high flow kit with 9K service, but not ready to pull the trigger on a pipe just yet. When I finally do, I can just plug and play and not worry about spending another $300 for a new flash.
As far as review before install, they say it really smoothed out throttle based on new mapping and killing the flapper valve reduces the heavy engine braking. It's been installed on mostly 821's and lots of Panigale's in the Duc family.
Install: I did this myself and would rate it a 7 on a scale of 10. You have to pull the tank which is not a novice job. Highly recommend watching this video if you do decide to do yourself Tank Removal
The included instructions only pertain to the wiring harness install. It just says "remove tank". It's a good manual with pictures and you can download a pdf from Dimsport, too. You obviously have to remove all the plastics. Careful with those **** spring clips that secure the fairings...I broke one by overtightening...I have a sick and costly vice of overtightening...actually snapped a 4mm ball-end allen wrench off when re-installing the hand guards...rounded out the bolt that secures center tank plastic to tank near filler port, too...that's gonna be a problem later...probably won't have to remove those for a while...oh, well...Fawk! Now the 4mm is missing from my giant ball end allen kit...can I replace just that one?...think I can drill the snapped head out?...still reading?
The tank...it sucks. Shoot for near empty if you have trouble lifting 40 lbs. Remove the handlebars! I didn't the first time and two things happen: 1) You'll destroy (bend) the seat removal mechanism and plastic that houses it, and 2) Just loose your mind wondering why it won't slide back in like it came out. So, I didn't touch the bars the first time and really beat up the seat release (nothing permanent and bent back into shape). Today on re-attack, I removed windscreen, hand guards, loosened bar clamp and turned bars forward. This still won't allow you to maneuver around seat release, so be warned. I jimmied around with a pry bar cause my time is valuable and removing the bars is a tedious and long job. The tank has long forward lobes that will interfere with the bars and controls for the 45 deg install angle it requires.
The fuel line/pump housing cover took years off my life. It houses the tap for the fuel line and has about 8" of 1/2" rubber tubing coiled in it. Watch the video linked above. No matter how closely you study it upon removal, the fuel line will not coil back in as intended. The line is thick and it fights the shroud bolts, wanting to eject the cover outward towards the deck while you try and fettle the tiny 8mm nuts over about 1mm of thread showing. I toiled with this damn metal shroud for nearly an hour on first install and it resulted (unknowingly) in the line kinking, causing my fuel starvation issue that I assumed was some digital error with the box. *I sent the box off to Yaman @ RB USA and it checked good. Hence, tearing it back down to triple check my work and discovering the kinked fuel line. The lines were creased good and I ended up using small hose clamps to keep them from kinking. I'd maybe stretch the line out taught while the tank is off to reduce memory.
The rest of the job is just tedious routing of the many engine management taps: cylinders, injectors, O2 sensors, power, etc. It's a very tidy kit with Ducati standard plugs for each lead splice. The front cylinder behind the radiator sucks. The spring clips on a few of the leads really suck if you have big dumb fingers, like me. The only actually splice/wire tap is the TPS lead near the main ECU, and even that is a very sturdy tap (not the crappy wire vice you get at autoparts store). Just added zip-ties here and there to keep things clean.
Finally, disconnected the exhaust valve servo cable. Plenty of threads on this site and others for info. It's sprung open, but be careful you secure the cable so it won't get caught in the mechanism as the servo will still actuate if you go this way. I may remove the butterfly when I get an exhaust but this is quick and easy and you don't have to remove the can to do it.
And shout out to Ducati (Audi?) on the fit and finish where most owners dare to go. They went to great lengths on weight saving and top shelf wire looming. If you're wondering why this costs so much more than a V-Strom, take it apart. This is a race bike with some touring bits bolted on.
Engine Management: The Evo is middle of the RB line but very capable. The "Race" kit add options that most of us will never use, like pit lane retardation and messing with the spark timing. The Evo does have a lead to add RB's speed shifter, which I will probably do later. The general owners software is pretty trick with a lot of adjustability that is way above my head. The cylinder function and AF ratio active graphics are really cool. Luckily, AT is a single check box option. I highly recommend reading these threads and contacting Yaman @ RB before messing with the software interface: RB Tuning; RB Tuning 2
Results: Caveat- RB recommends 200 miles for AT to learn and adjust completely to your bike...I have about 15 miles after getting it running right. Even after the initial install when I thought I had a bad product, the bike always fired up cleaner and quicker and held a steadier idle. Seriously, the idle rpm's didn't bounce nearly as bad when stock. Holds true after fix. Throttle response is probably same in Sport but that jerky bite is reduced. Not sure if mostly contributable to servo delete but, the bike doesn't crush my balls into powder when I close the throttle anymore (RB is set stock for exhaust valve delete...they assume you're going to do this). There's also a blanker adapter available if you want to cancel all the RB features and return to stock without removing the kit. It plugs right into the wire bundle lead and null's all tuning.
I didn't have 3rd gear wheelie results as some users stated, but it's certainly quicker to react when I drop a gear and pin it. Also Caveat- I tied this in with new plugs, MWR high-flow filter mod, and oil/filter change. That, coupled with the bike running poorly initially leaving the garage and running so for near 2 months might sway my initial review. I'm sure I'll fall back into my set comfort level for a less biased review later.
Biggest benefit is for the mountain riders. This bike will auto adapt based on ambient settings as you make substantial density altitude changes. Same goes true for big ambient weather swings. I'm happy that I didn't have to shell out major bennies to troubleshoot.
Product: RapidBike Evo 821 (Exclusivo) RB USA
*the "Exclusivo" kit excludes the diagnostic cable, which I highly recommend. I didn't know this when I purchased on eBay from Italian vendor (it's an Italian product) for way less than US distributor. Ended up purchasing cable for $75 after the fact. You may never mess with the management settings but there's lots of little goodies to tinker with and you can get really nerdy if you want. Plus, you can get detailed graphical displays of what each cylinder is doing while running, if wanted. The US distributor was not pleased with my method of purchase but, it was a legit product (verified via Dimsport) and I saved over $200. He caved and agreed to help when I furnished authenticity statement from manufacturer, but I get it that he makes most of his money selling the US-only version and installing them himself.
It's basically this or Rexxer. The "other site" speaks highly of this product and it has an exclusive "Adaptive Tune" (AT) feature which sold me because it fixes the lean fueling issue and I don't care to **** with AF ratio's and other track-minded tuning- though you can certainly do that with this box. With Rexxer or other "flash" tunes, it's only good for the configuration you have at the time: pipe, high flow filter, deleted exhaust valve, etc. One time deal. Add a pipe= another $300 flash. And it's based on set engine maps; which are good, but, why not tune on the fly based on ambient conditions. With the RB kit, the AT will constantly adjust based on all it samples. Oh, for the nerds, it's closed loop also, so you don't have to delete O2 leads. Personally, I killed exhaust valve and installed MWR high flow kit with 9K service, but not ready to pull the trigger on a pipe just yet. When I finally do, I can just plug and play and not worry about spending another $300 for a new flash.
As far as review before install, they say it really smoothed out throttle based on new mapping and killing the flapper valve reduces the heavy engine braking. It's been installed on mostly 821's and lots of Panigale's in the Duc family.
Install: I did this myself and would rate it a 7 on a scale of 10. You have to pull the tank which is not a novice job. Highly recommend watching this video if you do decide to do yourself Tank Removal
The included instructions only pertain to the wiring harness install. It just says "remove tank". It's a good manual with pictures and you can download a pdf from Dimsport, too. You obviously have to remove all the plastics. Careful with those **** spring clips that secure the fairings...I broke one by overtightening...I have a sick and costly vice of overtightening...actually snapped a 4mm ball-end allen wrench off when re-installing the hand guards...rounded out the bolt that secures center tank plastic to tank near filler port, too...that's gonna be a problem later...probably won't have to remove those for a while...oh, well...Fawk! Now the 4mm is missing from my giant ball end allen kit...can I replace just that one?...think I can drill the snapped head out?...still reading?
The tank...it sucks. Shoot for near empty if you have trouble lifting 40 lbs. Remove the handlebars! I didn't the first time and two things happen: 1) You'll destroy (bend) the seat removal mechanism and plastic that houses it, and 2) Just loose your mind wondering why it won't slide back in like it came out. So, I didn't touch the bars the first time and really beat up the seat release (nothing permanent and bent back into shape). Today on re-attack, I removed windscreen, hand guards, loosened bar clamp and turned bars forward. This still won't allow you to maneuver around seat release, so be warned. I jimmied around with a pry bar cause my time is valuable and removing the bars is a tedious and long job. The tank has long forward lobes that will interfere with the bars and controls for the 45 deg install angle it requires.
The fuel line/pump housing cover took years off my life. It houses the tap for the fuel line and has about 8" of 1/2" rubber tubing coiled in it. Watch the video linked above. No matter how closely you study it upon removal, the fuel line will not coil back in as intended. The line is thick and it fights the shroud bolts, wanting to eject the cover outward towards the deck while you try and fettle the tiny 8mm nuts over about 1mm of thread showing. I toiled with this damn metal shroud for nearly an hour on first install and it resulted (unknowingly) in the line kinking, causing my fuel starvation issue that I assumed was some digital error with the box. *I sent the box off to Yaman @ RB USA and it checked good. Hence, tearing it back down to triple check my work and discovering the kinked fuel line. The lines were creased good and I ended up using small hose clamps to keep them from kinking. I'd maybe stretch the line out taught while the tank is off to reduce memory.
The rest of the job is just tedious routing of the many engine management taps: cylinders, injectors, O2 sensors, power, etc. It's a very tidy kit with Ducati standard plugs for each lead splice. The front cylinder behind the radiator sucks. The spring clips on a few of the leads really suck if you have big dumb fingers, like me. The only actually splice/wire tap is the TPS lead near the main ECU, and even that is a very sturdy tap (not the crappy wire vice you get at autoparts store). Just added zip-ties here and there to keep things clean.
Finally, disconnected the exhaust valve servo cable. Plenty of threads on this site and others for info. It's sprung open, but be careful you secure the cable so it won't get caught in the mechanism as the servo will still actuate if you go this way. I may remove the butterfly when I get an exhaust but this is quick and easy and you don't have to remove the can to do it.
And shout out to Ducati (Audi?) on the fit and finish where most owners dare to go. They went to great lengths on weight saving and top shelf wire looming. If you're wondering why this costs so much more than a V-Strom, take it apart. This is a race bike with some touring bits bolted on.
Engine Management: The Evo is middle of the RB line but very capable. The "Race" kit add options that most of us will never use, like pit lane retardation and messing with the spark timing. The Evo does have a lead to add RB's speed shifter, which I will probably do later. The general owners software is pretty trick with a lot of adjustability that is way above my head. The cylinder function and AF ratio active graphics are really cool. Luckily, AT is a single check box option. I highly recommend reading these threads and contacting Yaman @ RB before messing with the software interface: RB Tuning; RB Tuning 2
Results: Caveat- RB recommends 200 miles for AT to learn and adjust completely to your bike...I have about 15 miles after getting it running right. Even after the initial install when I thought I had a bad product, the bike always fired up cleaner and quicker and held a steadier idle. Seriously, the idle rpm's didn't bounce nearly as bad when stock. Holds true after fix. Throttle response is probably same in Sport but that jerky bite is reduced. Not sure if mostly contributable to servo delete but, the bike doesn't crush my balls into powder when I close the throttle anymore (RB is set stock for exhaust valve delete...they assume you're going to do this). There's also a blanker adapter available if you want to cancel all the RB features and return to stock without removing the kit. It plugs right into the wire bundle lead and null's all tuning.
I didn't have 3rd gear wheelie results as some users stated, but it's certainly quicker to react when I drop a gear and pin it. Also Caveat- I tied this in with new plugs, MWR high-flow filter mod, and oil/filter change. That, coupled with the bike running poorly initially leaving the garage and running so for near 2 months might sway my initial review. I'm sure I'll fall back into my set comfort level for a less biased review later.
Biggest benefit is for the mountain riders. This bike will auto adapt based on ambient settings as you make substantial density altitude changes. Same goes true for big ambient weather swings. I'm happy that I didn't have to shell out major bennies to troubleshoot.
