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She done died...

So set off for work this morning and as soon as I merged on the highway, it died. Same blown 10A fuse. Swapped it, set off, died 500 meters down the road. Swapped again, drove like a drunk priest home. When I got on my street, I did a throttle test. As soon as I cracked it rapidly, it died. Maybe got to 1/2 throttle, probably less. This was under 4K rpm.

I got her up above 6K rpm on the ride home with very ginger throttle. So it's TPS related, not rpm. I can't trace wires till this weekend.
 
Do you disconnect at the frame or ECU? I know where the frame connectors are but not sure if there's another dongle at the ECU bundle.
 
Trace the lambda sensor wire from the headers back and disconnect from there, both on the left hand side, one low and fwd, the other middle ish. should be pretty accessible though
 
I know where those are at. Inspected both when I did work this past weekend. They are mid-stream connections, though.

We get a CEL/ ERRORS with lambda's disconnected, right?
 
Yep those are the ones and yes you will get lights on the dash, but interested to see if the fuse stops blowing
 
Never had so many electrical issues with a bike, now my tail light is out but the brake like works, found a blown 10A fuse but didn't matter to the light, need to look harder...
 
I blew the brake light fuse often when I had some crappy aux lights installed.
 
The tail light is a twin filament bulb, brake light will still work if the tail light is blown and vice versa
Your bulb might need replacing or i have seen faulty bulbs in my career that have worked fine bit caused all sorts of electical problems and blown fuses. Id replace the bulb if i were you before anything else
 
mentalist said:
The tail light is a twin filament bulb, brake light will still work if the tail light is blown and vice versa
Your bulb might need replacing or i have seen faulty bulbs in my career that have worked fine bit caused all sorts of electical problems and blown fuses. Id replace the bulb if i were you before anything else
Click to expand...

Unless you're talking about the license plate light, I think the brake/tail lights are all led - 6 each.
 
BadToTheBown said:
Never had so many electrical issues with a bike, now my tail light is out but the brake like works, found a blown 10A fuse but didn't matter to the light, need to look harder...
Click to expand...

The front fuse panel 10amp fuse is the lights fuse (or the instrument panel - but that's ok right?). The wiring from the tail light is fairly easy to trace - -can't remember but it runs through a grommet I think - I'd check that. The wiring runs to the left side of the rear compartment under the seat and I think there's a connector it all runs to - maybe disconnect - check for corrosion, clean and get some dialectric grease in there. Might need a new module though - not expensive - but hopefuly the fuse saved the day.

Just spitballing - it's been 2 years since I hooked some aux lights to the brake/tail system. It's a little hazy.
 
Sorry your right, indicators, No.plate and headlamp are filament bulbs. Put a multimeter on the wire for the brake light bulb and see if your getting a voltage when tge brake is pressed. Might be the lamp unit has failed.
 
No joy. I pulled all the fairings and went hunting this weekend. I have a tap on the #4 that I cleaned up but for the life of me can't remember what add-on it powers. I also found a broken regulator on my driving lamp circuit board, but that won't be the cause. I'm assuming the broken circuit board is due to the beating of the roads and my tendency to loft the front wheel. I'm going to focus my search on the steering/ forward frame area.

If I cant fix this weekend, it's going to the shop. My auto store doesn't have 10A mini's in stock and I'm not buying another assorted pack. I'm half tempted to throw a 15A in there but it could be a costly action.
 
appliance821 said:
The front fuse panel 10amp fuse is the lights fuse (or the instrument panel - but that's ok right?).
Click to expand...
Rear fuse box back by tail light, position #6...

appliance821 said:
The wiring from the tail light is fairly easy to trace - -can't remember but it runs through a grommet I think...runs to the left side of the rear compartment under the seat and I think there's a connector it all runs to...
Click to expand...
Yeh, I installed a brake flasher and used stock connectors to put it in, all of it looks good on visual inspection...brakes and turn signals work just fine...

appliance821 said:
Might need a new module though - not expensive - but hopefuly the fuse saved the day.
Click to expand...
Where's the module and how do you check it...I've traced the #6 fuse position, on the wiring diagram, to the ignition switch ("Direct" Pin), so there is a bit of lowest common denominator here, namely the ignition switch which also has a problem with being locked (blows 30A fuses when I do)...so now I'm looking up how to get the immobilizer to accept another key, I happen to have another ignition switch I can swap to, just need the keys to work with the immobilizer before I install it...
 
Last edited:
mentalist said:
Trace the lambda sensor wire from the headers back and disconnect from there, both on the left hand side, one low and fwd, the other middle ish. should be pretty accessible though
Click to expand...

The front is definitely accessible, but I don't know about the rear. Looks like it's zip-tied to the frame cross-beam under the seat, and covered by the bottom of the rear of the tank/pump outlet. Do I need to remove the tank to get to it, or is there an easier way?
 
Some new **** has come to light, man:

So stripped everything off but the tank. No breaks, kinks, frays or loose ends that I can see or feel. Unplugging the lambda's had no effect, either.

So gave it the college try and fired her up on the center stand. I put it in gear and was able to run her up to above 30 mph, giving some healthy blips, and aside from the ABS/ DTC warnings, she ran fine. Those lights were expected as the front wheel speed sensors were not jiving with the rear.

Jump on, and as soon as I give just a little bit of throttle it dies, blowing the same CB.

WTF? Could this be ABS or DTC related? I had her in sport with DTC 0/ ABS 1 when it first happened.
 

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